The results of EVA foam-sealing-tests that I did. (For those interested) [PIC HEAVY]


Hey Everyone!

Long time since I've posted, but while working on various projects (including fixing/modifying my first foam suit) I started to wonder about other ways to seal EVA foam. I used the Rustoleum version of Plasti-Dip for my first foam build (because here in Canada, P-D is 25$ a can to Rustoleum's 15$), which took about 4 and a half cans. So I started thinking if there is a way to get more out of each can (to save money, cause I'm cheap like that).

I picked up some some Mod Podge, and did a little test. I tried straight MP as well as watered down (to the consistency of honey-ish)
Also, the little craters in the bottom right corners are from me pushing into the foam with my thumb and the end of a paint brush, just to test against various kinds of abuse. I bent the pieces to about 90 degrees, and the MP layer seemed to crack "with the grain" a lot worse then against.

* The pieces used for this test were not sealed using a heat gun. I forgot to do that, so please forgive me. :( *

I'll let the following pictures speak of the results.








As you can see, adding a bit of water makes the cracks less "sharp", therefore leading me to believe the water helps the foma absorb the MP and still retain some flexibility.

I plan to spray them with the Rustoleum Pro Grip as a test to see if the foam absorbs less, since it's covered in MP. I will also test using paint straight from a rattle can (with a base of primer) I will post pics of the results ASAP.

Feel free to leave any comments/questions.



Well-Known Member
Lol you are definitely on to something maybe a comprehensive guide. Or a keyword searchable database with tips, tricks and how to's

a wiki would help... should be released :-D you can easily implement diffrent languages by yourself and so on...

Backt to topic.
Sealing the surface of EVA floor mats is easier than you thought. Just use some PVA resin or white wood glue. it contains the PVA and seals the surface for the painting process.

btw... the tiny bubbles on top of the surface coms from the missing last thin layer of wood glue. Its just the testing spot, but the rest comes out pretty great and the paint wont crack anymore :) keeps it flexible
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Well-Known Member
I'm with the whole book idea all the money could go into R&D work for the next one.


So unfortunately the rattle can related tests will have to wait. Mother Nature decided last night to dump yet another 10cm of snow on us after giving us a nice warm day at 8 celsius. -.- Gotta love this Canadian weather.