Props Toast - spartan laser pep

[techtoast]

techtoast's build thread

EDIT: if a mod see's this would you mind renaming it to "techtoast's build thread"?

Greetings 405th! I've been interested in this place for a while, and gained much advice from browsing the forums, and I set my heart on creating something in pep. I tried first at a halo 1 shotgun out of printer paper, and failed. I bought some cardstock, and now about a month's worth of work later, I have a spartan laser well on it's way. Held together only by scotch tape at the moment, here it is in all it's light blue-ish glory:

This side I have completed the "zig zag circular thing" on the buttstock.

And on this side I have completed the "hydraulic latch thing" behind the foregrip.

I do have a few questions as I proceed with the assembly:

How can I support and fiberglass a closed vessel like this?
Can I use super glue instead of scotch tape?
If I can't use super glue, what should I use?

Project updates in the near future, see you then.
-techtoast

 

[gingersnapples]

good job so far, but i suggest you use glue in the future, fiberglass resin has a tendency to dissolve tape-like adhesives.

 

[rockthewarrior]

You can use superglue, elmer's glue or even hot glue. As for strengthening the inside, once you resin the outside there are several methods. 1 is chopping it in half, resining and fiberglassing the inside. 2 is using insulation foam to help it keep its shape, 3 is Rondoing the inside via small holes strategically placed in the project. I'm sure other people have more ideas too.

 

[techtoast]

While I was going about my business today, I think I figured out how to fiberglass it. I can leave the bottom portion, which i haven't done yet anyway, separate from the rest of the assembly. I'll then tape it in place, (the rest is getting super glue, thanks guys) and resin the corners seams and edges from the outside. Both models' pieces should hold their shape well, and I can fiberglass both pieces, then resin them in place after the fiberglass is dry. Is there any key flaw I'm missing with this method? Or can I consider it a safe enough bet to go on with it?

 

[techtoast]

Got a bunch of progress pics for you guys.

Here I tore apart the section I had done in tape into logicaly workable pieces so that I could redo them in super glue.

All super glued and completed the trigger section

The hood over the barrel mostly done.

I wasn't capable of the fine pep work on this hydrolic latch so I'll scratch build them after fiberglassing.

The body all pep'ed and sporting a stylish resin coat.

The barrel

The hood

I balanced the pieces on top of each other so I could see what it was going to look like.

A custom adapter I made for the barrel. I'll resin a bolt and nut so I can remove the barrel for painting and detailing.

Another view of the adapter.



Just a quick question, can I cut this in half with a bandsaw or would that wreck it? Should I use an xacto or a hack/hand saw instead?

Anyway, I'll start on the fiberglass work tomorrow and should have some more progress in a few days. I'm incredibly pleased so far with my new hobby.

All the best,
-Techtoast

 

[M071]

I am new here myself but my experience with my sons Master chief armor after we fiber glassed it ,we found cutting worked best with a dremel. The cutting wheel was the easiest way to make small accurate cuts.
First Spartan laser I’ve seen browsing through the forms . Just curious if you put any thoughts into adding a laser inside the barrel as a cool finishing touch ? Can’t wait to see it done .That looks great!!

 

[techtoast]

Thanks for the tip, I'll do that. I'll have to remember to grab some carbon wheels while I'm out tomorrow.

I have put some thought to a laser. I could rig a cheap-o laser with a 555 timer for the rapid flashing effect and a disposable camera charging circuit for that high pitched wind up noise. Then just rig a second electric switch to the trigger in the rest position with a resistor so when you release the trigger, it empties the capacitor on the camera circuit so it will repeat the whine when you pull it again.

EDIT: re-read your post and noticed you referred to cutting AFTER you had fiber glassed it. My question was about cutting it in half "hot dog style" (couldn't help myself) with just resin on it, so that I can fiber glass it from the inside. It seams to me that a band saw would make the truest cut(correct me if I'm wrong), but I'm not sure if it would mangle or chip it.

 

[M071]

WOW your light years ahead of me in the electronics department! I definitely like the sound effects and the direction you’re going with the laser idea. That will definitely be a weapon put in the elite thread . One of the engineers I know and work with a lot, has buddy in the department that plays around with lasers all the time. To make a long story short he has modified and ramped up the power to the lasers out of DVD and Blu-Ray players I think . I know the green one has had enough power ran into to set a paper cup on fire after a minute or so and you could feel the heat on your skin after a few seconds . I see him first thing next week so I will get as much information as I can and pass along to you.
Last weekend my son and I built a tester chess piece and a few of Emiles grenades . On the chest piece we finished the entire thing and coated it with several coats of resin. After Resin had dried we fiber-glassed the inside of the chest piece starting with the front inside. After the front dried we did the back inside. Then we hid the cuts in the sides and shoulders on the creases .That’s where the cutting wheel shined but we cut the ends of the grenades off we found we didn’t get perfect and true cuts ( I will test cut one of them later today on my band saw and see how that goes ) . Think you’re right a band saw would give you the truest best cut if your band saw is properly tuned and you’re making a cut on both sides simultaneously so one of them is blind if you have enough faith in the accuracy of your band saw and you’re cutting skills I would say that’s the fastest way to get accurate cuts on both sides. looking at your weapon, hiding your cuts on some of the creases and having several compartments you could make it more accessible later to work on your electronics and upgrade them .Then you could use small stainless steel screws to fasten the compartments back together not only incorporating them with the look of the weapon but making it easier to break down the laser. making it more like a realistic weapon versus a put together prop. Last thought it might be easier to align the pieces back together when you’re finished fiberglassing the inside having access panels versus cutting it in half hotdog style . I would just hate to see you cut it completely in half and have it not a line back up.

 

[M071]

http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i346/Photo-071/[/URL]

Hope this photo helps it’s just an idea

 

[techtoast]

I kind of like the panel idea, but I also like the idea of the ease of fiberglassing that cutting it all the way in half would give me. SPARTAN II made an awesome spartan laser blueprint. you can see the picture here and the original thread here. I think for that extra bit of authenticity, the panel concept could be implemented where the in game screws are located, after fiberglass but before putting the two halves back together.

And besides, if I mess this all up, I'll just restart; It's all a learning experience. I migh try my next one using a casting method instead, who knows?

As far as the DVD lasers go, yes I have seen that, and know how they work. I'm kind of an electronics junkie. But for the spartan laser, I don't know if i would like a green, blue or purple laser, just dosen't fit the authentic look. A blue one might be cool, but the blue laser wavelength is very penetrating, and everyone in the room would have to be wearing class 4 laser googles (I think it's class 4) and head to toe clothing to prevent blindness from the glow on the wall and skin cancer from the radiant beam. Sounds like fun.

 

[M071]

Yes cutting it in half is the easiest way to fiberglass the inside of the weapon. If you’ve never worked with fiberglass before it would be very difficult to tackle the compartment/panel idea . I didn’t have a reference picture from the game but placing the screws and panels in conjunction with the authentic look of the weapon is exactly what I was trying to explain. My picture was just a reference trying to explain my idea.
I’m very weak in the area electronics knowledge . Sounds like you have a strong grasp on the idea and I’ll be asking you later on how to rig the laser and mine when I finally get around to building my Spartan laser. I cut the bottom of the grenades off with the band saw and didn’t have a problem getting a straight cut or grabbing the paper. I don’t think you’ll have a problem using the band saw. Good luck with the next phase !

 

[dericrw]

You have put some serious thought in the electronics of this piece!

 

[M071]

Quick question I started my build and I was trying to put the pictures up by linking them to my photo bucket but I haven’t had any success getting them to show up on the thread itself. When you get a second could you please explain the process and how you got yours up thanks !!

 

[ArktosPendragon]

Quick question I started my build and I was trying to put the pictures up by linking them to my photo bucket but I haven’t had any success getting them to show up on the thread itself. When you get a second could you please explain the process and how you got yours up thanks !!

To post from photobucket just copy the IMG code (the one that has on both sides) and paste it into your post, should show up just fine.


To OP: Looking good, the bandsaw idea sounds good as long as your resined piece has a decent amount of rigidity (I don't know how many coats of resin you applied).

 

[techtoast]

I've been checking back periodically and didn't realize the thread had moved on to another page; my bad [/newb]. Anyways, my inexperience with fiberglass got the better of me on this one I think. I got it cut in have with a razor (i'll go with the band saw from here on, thanks for testing that M-071) and tackled fiberglassing.

I started with the inside of the hydraulic latches and wound up with sort of a mess, it was mostly resin and the fiberglass didn't form the "proper" shape. If I had put in a little more research and forethought, I would have purchased fiberglass matte rather than a weave. some of the flat areas and corners turned out pretty decent though.

Looking at it now I'm not completely happy with it; it's warped and weird, and would take a substantial elbow greasing to fix. Rather than try and fix this, I figure I should take my lessons learned, and start over. I can post pictures if anyone is interested.

I've got two full sheets of plywood sitting in my garage and the laser pdo (credit to Nugget and Ral Partha), and I figure I can use the layering method to build the core, about half-inch smaller then scale, and use some NSP clay to finish up details.

I do have one big question, can I use regular silicone house caulking to make a mold similar to this as a poor mans alternative? I'm aware that I'll lose some of the details such as fine grooves, crisp edges etc., and that it won't hold up as long as a "proper" mold would.

By accident while I was writing this reply, I stumbled on this. Tell me what you guys think.

I'll keep this thread updated with my new progress as I go.

 

[blowing bomb]

ima firin ya lazor.... BLAAHHHGH

 

[Grant 117]

Hey,

i just joined and am atempting to build spartan laser. is there any tips you could give me?

 

[Patryn]

Man that is a labor of love there. Talk about stinking to it, great fortitude sir.

 

[Grant 117]

spartan laser

:confused
where did you get the pep files?

 

[techtoast]

@ grant.

The best advice I could give right now is to take your time. Study your subject well and develop a plan of action well before you put anything to works. And I got the pep files from the pepakura files index in the halo costuming wiki. (google is your friend)

@ patryn.

Thanks for the good words, best of luck to you too!

@ all

Does anyone here have any tips for slicing a model into sections (for plywood schems.) in pepakura designer or blender 3d?