First build (H3:ODST)(Image heavy)

[Hugh Holder]

Wow, you all are doing really great work! Everything looks fantastic!

Which con are you prepping for? And what are your plans for helmets/weapons?

I'm looking forward to seeing what you do for boots, since I haven't found a reasonable looking pair at the right price yet.

Keep up the great work!

-Hugh

 

[Hive]

The man himself! Thanks for checking us out, we pretty much say how awesome your build is daily. XD
Joe's going to a con called Kitacon in the UK, it's mainly an anime con but it's a good excuse to parade around in ODST gear. ;D

The boots we both have are Newrocks, very similar to these: http://www.newrockboots.com/collections/comfort-collection/1473-s1.html They cost us about $55, add an extra inch to your height and look pretty sweet!

We're building your helmet for this too, guns.. we're not too sure yet, all depends on time, I personally want to build an assault rifle or a spartan laser!

Thanks again for the files, much love from both of us.
- Elliot

 

[Hugh Holder]

Very cool, thanks a lot for the info! I was considering something like that, but I'm still debating on whether I should get something easier to slip in/out of or more realistic speed-lace styles.

Good luck on the helmet build. From what I gathered it can be a real challenge to make. I suggest as you build to use the butterfly clips as usual but also hold/glue different sections.

For instance, I used clips to hold together all of the pieces for the ODST helmet dome first (the very top portions) then I built the two parts on the back of the head with the cheek sections and glued them together. Then finally I built and glued all of the front parts with the visor and then put all three larger parts together in the end... whew!

But if you guys have any questions feel free to ask.

As far as guns go:

Thorssoli made me an awesome battle rifle kit a little while back. I still haven't assembled/painted it yet because of weather and poor time management. But I highly recommend his work. He is very professional and great at what he does!
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[Akademee]

yeah we'll just top this all off with an awesome battle rifle while we're at it..... GEEZUS

 

[Hive]

Thanks for the tips! And I thought the core took a lot of patience! haha. The clipping method works really well with the way you've put the files together, I much prefer the building block way you put pep together over one large mesh; When it comes to the helmet I've got a feeling its not going to warp as much through the resin as other builds! Thanks for that. ;D
Also the boots we have zip up the side, which makes them easy to get on. Seriously saves me some rage, I hate putting boots on!

Keep an eye out for our progress we're hoping to reach a good quality, out of interest how did you treat the pepped helmet? Just resin and glassed as usual?

We were thinking about buying gun kits but were a little worried about customs, we don't know how they'd react. O_O
-Elliot.

 

[Hugh Holder]

That is true, being overseas you may have issues getting stuff shipped from the states :/ I'd definitely do some research though. I think there have been other members who have gone through the process that may be able to give you some advice.

When I pepped my helmet, I did one light layer of resin on the outside. One heavy layer on the inside. Then two more coats of resin on the outside. Then I hardened the inside with smoothcast 320 plastic because it is lighter and I can do it indoors

Then for all smoothing I only used bondo glazing and spot putty. Much easier and more convenient than using body filler you have to lay out and mix yourself. And I only really used it sparingly.

 

[Hive]

Ahh thanks, we'll have to look in to the smoothcast plastic, see if there's any equivalent in England. I don't like the idea of glassing the helmet, I don't fancy inhaling that many toxins (Says the smoker) D: We're sealing off the rest of the pieces inside with spray setting filler to make them solid pieces, but it wouldn't work with the helmet so we'll have to take a gander!

Joe mentioned he'd used a liquid bondo before that might of been what he meant. I hear you when you say sparingly! the main reason I'm building your helmet is because it's so perfect it won't require much aftercare! =D
-Elliot

 

[Road Kill]

sure thing man and nice rondo work so far keep it up

 

[geoat2t]

sick job......post the file if u can ....thankz

 

[Hive]

Hey thanks man, go here http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/24388-Hughs-Odst-Build

Remember to give hugh some thanks for the files.

 

[helljumper1981]

awsome work, i hope mine comes out lookin that good

 

[Hive]

Cheers, I'm sure it'll come out fine! Just gotta put the time in to it.

Update: 11th feb, noon
Waiting for the bondo to harden before I do the next section and start sanding, expect more later!

 

[Hive]

So I was up at 6am working on the bondo, I'd intended to get at least one full coat smoothed but the drying took long than expected and I was exhausted, I fell asleep at 6pm while I was waiting for it to dry. D:

Having a little trouble getting a smooth finish but hopefully more sanding and a couple of layers of resin will sort that out, I hope? As you can see there's some sizeable dinks. Anyone know if this is normal, and any tips?









Edit: Decided on sealing the edges of the core with rubber.

 

[Hugh Holder]

I've bondo'd my core piece but it's got some imperfections and dints (will rondo next time) and I don't think I can pull them all out with sanding, will a few coats of resin over the top fix it, if not any other ideas?

Hey Elliot,

I stopped using bondo body filler or mixing rondo. It gets everywhere and I just don't care to mix small amounts that are difficult to properly place.

Instead I started simply sanding the resin down, then primering. With the primer on the part I check to see where all of the imperfections and pits are. Then I use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty.

It's pretty much the same thing as the body filler but premixed in a tube and is ready to sand after a few minutes at room temperature.

I lay out dime size spots of it over areas I want to smooth, then spread a thin layer over the area. After it dries I sand, exposing the pits you normally get with bondo. Then I do a second pass where I use even less putty to fill those imperfections with.

I only apply it to areas that need smoothing (where sanding the resin didn't smooth out paper folds)

This sort of stuff works better if you use small amounts at a time. It takes patience but you achieve smooth results faster than trying to chisel sharp details back into a thick bondo layer.
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[Boba Fett]

Spot putty is more fragile though, it really likes to chip off unless very thin. It works great for molding, but if on the finished product... it might give you some issues if it takes any impacts.

 

[Hive]

well i doubt i'll be fighting that many brutes, and the core piece is mostly covered but i do see what your getting at, but i'll either take my time with the spot putty, or maybe use some spray fillers, i'll see what i can find on the way back from work tomorrow xD anything you recommend over these products though? - Joe

Ah it's alright Joe I can handle it with the spot putty. We didn't really want to use bondo but we wanted one solid piece to saw in half so they fit perfectly, so we had to join the gaps. I think a layer of resin then work out any remaining imperfections with spot filler should work fine, most of the core is covered so i'm not too worried anyway!
Thanks for the input both of you.
-Elliot

Edit: Also Hugh I agree with you on the detailing, we weren't gonna' use bondo on any other part except the core because it'd just make life difficult, except perhaps filling in minor gaps, but now you've mentioned the spot putty that seems like a much better product for it!
-Elliot.

 

[rino626]

Everything is looking great guys! And i feel your pain on the bondo issues. I ended up bondoing my entire helmet(b/c my pep job wasnt the greatest) and I spent many many hours sanding! Im sure you all know about using several different grits of sand paper. I started out using 80 grit, which really made quick work of sanding down the largest inperfections. I then reapplied bondo and hit it with 80 grit again. Then moved to 120 grit and then to 180 grit to smooth everything out. Even after all of that there was still inperfections so I then used spot putty and it down with 180 grit. I finished it off with an even finer grit to smooth everthing out. the result are great, really smooth and srong serface, it just takes time!

Everything is looking great. Cant wait for more progress! Keep up the awesome work!

 

[Hive]

I finished it off with an even finer grit to smooth everthing out. the result are great, really smooth and srong serface, it just takes time!

Thanks Rino i'll keep at the sanding. I know I can get it down really smooth especially with more resin and spot putty, like you said it just takes time! Seriously gonna' make sure the helmet is spot on, don't want to do anything on the outside at all barring resin, I know what it's like with bondo.. it's a little like an addiction XD You start with the intention of fixing one part, then you have to do the surrounding parts to keep it even and it never ends!
-Elliot

 

[rino626]

Hahah thats exactly what happened Elliot! But after many many MANY hours I was satisfied But you're right, do a great pep job and there will be few things to smooth out! Looking forward to more progress.

 

[Hive]

I'm gonna' borrow Joe's Dremel too so it should be alright XD Work carries on this week as I was up at my dads for his birthday, the core and leg should be finished this week, as well as the helmet started and some last bits of resining/glassing. Expect this thing done by mid-end of March!

Edit: Also ima friend you, good to have people doing the same build as you
-Elliot