That is exactly what i was looking for! Thank you TONS! I am very appreciative of your contribution. Hopefully this will help others as it is helping me.By the way if you (or anyone else) need any reference pics for any other armor pieces from reach, feel free to ask me it's no problem at all!
I made a thread for it!Okay, So I noticed some of you guys don't have access to the Halo game your building a suit from so I thought, since I have the MCC maybe I could share some reference pics from Halo: Reach with you guys. I started with a few helmets, but there not all here yet. If there's a Halo: Reach armor...www.405th.com
I may have discovered the issue. I converted the extruder to a direct drive which eliminated clogging and any related failure of the bowden tube. BUT this created a new issue. I found that as the print increases in height there is a lack of slack from the filament roll to the extruder. This lack of slack creates tension and does not allow the x axis to move freely. Moving forward I think i'm going to revert to the original bowden tube setup with the extruder mounted to the x axis frame.Your layer shift problem could be due to the stepper drivers overheating. You can try that by placing a fan over them to cool them better. It could also be something binding up, but that would happen earlier as well. If you use Cura as a slicer, I could send you a post processing script that homes the printer after every layer so that a layer shift doesn't ruin print completely. It does produce some stringing however, as the printer doesn't necessarly retract before homing.
My ender 3 is the littlebrother of the CR10. I did add the belt tentioners shortly after the purchase of my printer. Im still sticking to the direct drive conversion as the route of the problem. Man the chopping of the helmet was definitely overly ambitious. I may have to reprint the original cheek sections and add the detail by using bondo as I cannot get the new cheeks to fit perfectly. However it has been super cold in the workshop so I havent really been working on the project.If it's anything like my Anet A8 and Creality CR-10S, then the following might benefit also;
* Adjustable belt tensioners - sometimes the belts get a bit loose and will affect print quality/accuracy
* Fibreglass reinforced belts - if you're using steel wire ones they'll eventually stretch (and affect print quality/accuracy)
* (optional) stepper motor braces for if you end up with tight belts. I have one for my X axis that incorporates a bearing (ie it supports the top of the stepper shaft)
* Frame braces to reduce wobble, especially for those taller prints
* Spool hubs, to center the center of the spool on the hub so the extruder motor doesn't have to work so hard to drag the filament off the spool. Might help with that issue you mentioned.
Some also say the spool on the top will also add to the wobble potential of a 3D printer (and affect print quality/accuracy).
Not sure if you have got any but automotive filler primer is great for helping fill in those 3D printer lines. I start with some low grit sandpaper first as the primer clogs sandpaper pretty darn quick. I'd use other filler for the big holes and gaps (eg Bondo, JB weld, or spot putty for the small stuff that filler primer wouldn't fill).
It's looking good, and you're more ambitious than I am with all that chopping. Or should I say brave
Here are a couple of my own Reach images I've gathered.
Okay let me give this a shot.Smoothing models isn't very difficult. In blender, you have to import the model and add the subdivision surface modifier, but that will smooth everything. To keep sharp edges, I think the easiest way is to set the edge crease. To do that, select the edge and press shift+E, then type one and press enter or leftclick. That should turn the edge purple and should keep it sharp. To remove the crease, type -1.
Smoothing models isn't very difficult. In blender, you have to import the model and add the subdivision surface modifier, but that will smooth everything. To keep sharp edges, I think the easiest way is to set the edge crease. To do that, select the edge and press shift+E, then type one and press enter or leftclick. That should turn the edge purple and should keep it sharp. To remove the crease, type -1.
Could you show us the mesh for that area? AS in, in edit mode.Alright! getting somewhere. However there are a few areas that seem to be problematic. Im not exactly sure how to correct these broken faces (if thats what they are)
View attachment 284582
take a look there are a few broken details like this across the helmet
View attachment 284583
Here is what im looking at. Purple edges are the hard lines i intend to keep nice and sharp.Could you show us the mesh for that area? AS in, in edit mode.
There are a few different details that the Reach ODST has.Is the Reach ODST helmet any different from the Halo 3 version? Coz Jeffrey/nintendstroid has a pretty smooth helmet (I printed it) found at 3D Printable Halo 3 ODST helmet Wearable Cosplay by jeffrey