3D printer HELP thread

is there a filament you can print that's rubberish? and for printers like the ender 3 pro is basic filament fine or do I need to buy the more expensive stuff.
 
TPU is a flexible filament that you can print with. It's better to print flexibles with a direct drive extruder, the shorter the path the extruder has to push the filament, the less likely it is to bind up.

You can print flexibles with a bowden extruder setup, but mostly just the 95a shore hardness stuff, because the softer stuff will just jam up. Shore hardness is how soft/hard the filament is, 95a is about like the sole of a shoe, and the most common rating for most TPU filaments.

Watch some videos before you start getting into TPU, it's alot different than PLA and ABS. For instance, it's recommended to turn retraction completely off, so there's less chance of the filament jamming inside the extruder. That leads to major stringing that you'll need to deal with at the end of the print. Also, a flexible build plate isn't going to help at all, because the print will flex with the build plate lol. That was a fun one to learn my first print.

Awesome material to print with though, you won't regret learning it :)
 
for ABS would you recommend bonding with acetone or something? gotta put the chest piece together.
 
for ABS would you recommend bonding with acetone or something? gotta put the chest piece together.

Acetone welding small stuff together is usually ok. My helmet is ABS and was printed in multiple pieces, I acetone welded the pieces together to hold them in place, then did a rough wet layup of fiberglass on the inside. I'd recommend you do something similar with your chest piece, just so you don't have to worry about a badly welded seam or anything. I took some pictures of the process and put them in my build thread here: MBDs Preator Suit
 
Hit a snag on printing my recon helmet... There's a random slice missing from the model any easy fix for this?
 
most 3d programs have a place that when you try to import it in to the program it will show you a red box under the model it will ask if you want to fix the manifold issue just say yes and it will repair the model and then you can export it from there. when i get home from work i will edit this with the name of what i use it has been awesome for me..
 
I wouldn't say most 3D programs have that feature... be mighty nice if they did... but 3D Builder for Windows certainly does (which I assume is the program you're talking about marinesniper ?), and it's a real handy feature. Great program to split files for printing as well.
 
I wouldn't say most 3D programs have that feature... be mighty nice if they did... but 3D Builder for Windows certainly does (which I assume is the program you're talking about marinesniper ?), and it's a real handy feature. Great program to split files for printing as well.
Thank you I could not think of the name of that program good looking out.
 
I myself hit a snag

received my first printer (Ender 3 S1 Plus 300mmx300mmx300mm) today, was all excited to get to work and black screen on the touch display. after talking with Creality tech support it was determined i either had faulty wiring or a faulty display, packed it up again and shipped it back. ETA to replacement arrival this coming Saturday.
 
Hey Guys! We are currently at the start with building our Spartan-IIIs (i go into the Noble 6 direction, my fiancee has picked Noble 5s Helmet...we'll see if i can talk her into carrying the Gatling, too :D). So far i only printed Mando Helmets, (which are waaaaay less detailed then the Halo ones) so before wasting a big amount of PLA, i was wondering if one of you guys might share his settings with me, since you are in the Spartan Forge way longer than i am and way more experienced. :D

So far i used Cura for slicing and print on a Anycubic Kobra Max.
 
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