Brandon McClain
Well-Known Member
That's "hey chicka bump bump" kinda sexy!!!
CEREAL'S - Mk VI Comprehensive WIP **(With Videos)**
- Thread starter Cereal Killl3r
- Start date
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Cereal Killl3r
Well-Known Member
Thanks Tom!
It's proving to be quite the journey, but what a journey it's been
Agreed about the primer, it's bitter-sweet! You can really see where things are going, but at the same time all the little imperfections surface and let you know just how much more you stll have to do
Always happy to share
Haha, thans Gabe!
Flattered by you're generous comment
Once I get done with the chest, everything else should fly! (I probably just jinx'd myself!)
Thanks Lil!
I totally agree about the detail layout, hence... the last update! It's all about the "little things" and how doing them sets off the bigger things that much more!
Am in love with you're build btw... You are like the Foam Princess! (awesome)
Thanks Keanu.
Happy to hear you like the build! At the end of the day, I'm just doing what "feels" right
Glad that I could supply some motivation for you.
Yeah, I know what you mean. There are suits here that I would love to see, it's just a matter of the logistics for most of them!
Thanks thorn!
Same to you! Loving the pack addition on your Noble 6, looks great!
Thanks carpathia!
I have no doubt you will!
Lol, thanks man!
Giggity-goo!
Dave.
I'm going to go pick up my jaw from the floor... Dave that is just... WOW! I don't know how else to put it. I know I've said this before, but I am looking forward to the possibility of getting my hands on a cast of your helmet AND your chest piece. The helmet alone I've looked around at the other sellers and compared them with yours and its no contest. The amount of detail, and the quality of the details on your helmet out shine all the others. (No offense to other MKVI sellers, just my opinion.) Keep it up!
Cereal Killl3r
Well-Known Member
Thanks Metalfire, means a lot! It's been a long road so far, and a lot of work!
I just received my Smooth-on order today, so I'll be molding my helmet soon Very exciting for me!
I just received my Smooth-on order today, so I'll be molding my helmet soon
Very exciting for me!Cereal Killl3r
Well-Known Member
UPDATE!! MOLD... DONE!
Alright, haven't posted much as I've been quite busy. So did a little shopping and here's what I came home with:
First order of business...
I'd like to take a moment to thank Brandon McClain and Tony for their time and info! You two have helped to take some of the guess work out of this process.
You guys are awesome!!!
Let's celebrate by molding my helmet!
First things first, here is a list of the materials I used:
Let's get started!
*** It should be known *** This is not a tutorial... This is just what "I" did to mold my helmet. Nothing shown here should be regarded as "The Way" it is done. As this was my first go at molding.
Step 1.
First layer of Dragon Skin:
- The first layer is thin, very thin! The point of this layer is solely to capture all the detail of the piece to be molded. The layer is kept thin to avoid air entrapment, this is very important when using Dragon Skin as Smooth-On Does strongly recommend the requirement of De-gassing prior to use! Unlike Rebound 25/40 which does not and is more forgiving a material to work with. I mixed a small amount with Silicone Thinner to bring the viscosity of the Dragon Skin down to a more easily 'brushable' consistency. This first layer, is the only time where Thinner was used.
Step 2.
The Second layer o Dragon Skin:
- The second layer is applied with no additives (thinners/thickeners) and it's purpose it to give the first very thin layer some more substance.
Step 3.
Undercut fill 1 of 2 and Key placement:
- This is not considered to be a 'layer', but is meant only to begin to fill all of the undercuts on the piece. (under the brim, cheeks, nose, etc...) A batch of Dragon Skin is mixed with Thi-vex to bring the viscosity up, it is then applied to the above stated areas. Material is also placed in a thin coat where the keys will be placed. Once curing of this batch has reached a nice and sticky state, the keys are applied to their ore-determined positions.
Step 4.
The third layer of Dragon Skin:
- The third layer is generously applied to further bulk up the overall thickness of the mold and is applied with no additives. (thinners/thickeners)
Step 5.
Undercut fill 2 of 2:
- The second undercut fill is to further back-fill all of the areas which have any remaining undercuts. Undercuts are a no-no, as if they are left unfilled they will cause the mother mold to not separate and can become weak spots when De-molding the silicone. I added pigment to this and all further batches of Dragon Skin with the sole purpose of being able to see where I am going, versus where I've already been.
Step 6.
The forth layer of Dragon Skin:
- The forth layer is to once again add further thickness and bulk to the mold. It also helps to further smooth out the previous undercut fill layer.
Step 7.
The fifth and final layer of Dragon Skin:
- This layer was a personal choice. I just looked at it as 'added insurance' and rigidity. The final thickness of the mold was just shy of 1/4" and heavier than I had anticipated!
... Love the color though!
Step 8.
Building the Mother Mold:
- First things first... the all too familiar Mohawk, this was build with playing cars and hot glue. I then covered it with a layer of aluminum foil. (Good luck to those who may try to mold... Nothing sticks to silicone!!!! Nothing!!! )
- I propped the helmet on one side using a coffee tin and started away with the glassing (Respirator warn at all times!!)
- Once cured, I did the second layer of fiberglass. This layer was tinted, once again so I can be sure that no areas are missed. Taking you're time when glassing will give you a nice smooth finish that requires little to no 'after-work' to knock down and or cover sharp or jagged areas. It's all in the application!!
- Lather, rinse, repeat for side 2:
- After a couple of hours of curing the piece is rock solid, I drilled the holed for the fasteners, then with a couple of flat screwdrivers and a hammer the pieces were gently separated.
- The de-molding of the silicone inner mold went like a dream! No cut seam needed, just rolled it up and off! (Thank you very much Brandon!!)
TO BE CONTINUED IN THE NEXT POST, AS I HAVE HIT THE IMAGE MAXIMUM!!!
.
Alright, haven't posted much as I've been quite busy. So did a little shopping and here's what I came home with:
First order of business...
I'd like to take a moment to thank Brandon McClain and Tony for their time and info! You two have helped to take some of the guess work out of this process.
You guys are awesome!!!
Let's celebrate by molding my helmet!
First things first, here is a list of the materials I used:
- Dragon Skin 10 Fast x3 pint kits
- Silicone Thinner
- Thi-vex
- Silc-Pig
- Smooth Cast 300
- So-Strong 'Black'
- A countless amount of cups
- Even more brushes
- Tongue Depressors
- A deck of playing cards
- Hot Glue
- Cardboard
- Coarse Fiberglass Matt
- Liquid Polyester Resin
- Wing nuts, Bolts & Washers
- Aluminum Foil
- Most importantly.... TIME!
Let's get started!
*** It should be known *** This is not a tutorial... This is just what "I" did to mold my helmet. Nothing shown here should be regarded as "The Way" it is done. As this was my first go at molding.
Step 1.
First layer of Dragon Skin:
- The first layer is thin, very thin! The point of this layer is solely to capture all the detail of the piece to be molded. The layer is kept thin to avoid air entrapment, this is very important when using Dragon Skin as Smooth-On Does strongly recommend the requirement of De-gassing prior to use! Unlike Rebound 25/40 which does not and is more forgiving a material to work with. I mixed a small amount with Silicone Thinner to bring the viscosity of the Dragon Skin down to a more easily 'brushable' consistency. This first layer, is the only time where Thinner was used.
Step 2.
The Second layer o Dragon Skin:
- The second layer is applied with no additives (thinners/thickeners) and it's purpose it to give the first very thin layer some more substance.
Step 3.
Undercut fill 1 of 2 and Key placement:
- This is not considered to be a 'layer', but is meant only to begin to fill all of the undercuts on the piece. (under the brim, cheeks, nose, etc...) A batch of Dragon Skin is mixed with Thi-vex to bring the viscosity up, it is then applied to the above stated areas. Material is also placed in a thin coat where the keys will be placed. Once curing of this batch has reached a nice and sticky state, the keys are applied to their ore-determined positions.
Step 4.
The third layer of Dragon Skin:
- The third layer is generously applied to further bulk up the overall thickness of the mold and is applied with no additives. (thinners/thickeners)
Step 5.
Undercut fill 2 of 2:
- The second undercut fill is to further back-fill all of the areas which have any remaining undercuts. Undercuts are a no-no, as if they are left unfilled they will cause the mother mold to not separate and can become weak spots when De-molding the silicone. I added pigment to this and all further batches of Dragon Skin with the sole purpose of being able to see where I am going, versus where I've already been.
Step 6.
The forth layer of Dragon Skin:
- The forth layer is to once again add further thickness and bulk to the mold. It also helps to further smooth out the previous undercut fill layer.
Step 7.
The fifth and final layer of Dragon Skin:
- This layer was a personal choice. I just looked at it as 'added insurance' and rigidity. The final thickness of the mold was just shy of 1/4" and heavier than I had anticipated!
... Love the color though!
Step 8.
Building the Mother Mold:
- First things first... the all too familiar Mohawk, this was build with playing cars and hot glue. I then covered it with a layer of aluminum foil. (Good luck to those who may try to mold... Nothing sticks to silicone!!!! Nothing!!! )
- I propped the helmet on one side using a coffee tin and started away with the glassing (Respirator warn at all times!!)
- Once cured, I did the second layer of fiberglass. This layer was tinted, once again so I can be sure that no areas are missed. Taking you're time when glassing will give you a nice smooth finish that requires little to no 'after-work' to knock down and or cover sharp or jagged areas. It's all in the application!!
- Lather, rinse, repeat for side 2:
- After a couple of hours of curing the piece is rock solid, I drilled the holed for the fasteners, then with a couple of flat screwdrivers and a hammer the pieces were gently separated.
- The de-molding of the silicone inner mold went like a dream! No cut seam needed, just rolled it up and off! (Thank you very much Brandon!!)
TO BE CONTINUED IN THE NEXT POST, AS I HAVE HIT THE IMAGE MAXIMUM!!!
.
Last edited by a moderator:
Cereal Killl3r
Well-Known Member
CONTINUING FROM PREVIOUS POST...
Alright... where were we...
All that was left to do was make my first casting!
Here are the results!
I find it quite amazing to look at it once again with no paint.... It looks rather dull and incomplete next to it's mama!
For my first go... I couldn't be happier with the outcome! (for both the mold and the casting)
Here is a video I made throughout the mold making process...
It is not a tutorial... I just decided to share what I have done.
Enjoy!
**** Smooth On Dragon Skin - First Time Making A Mold ****
Well that's about it for now, it's been a busy and expensive week! As per normal... An questions/comments/critiques... Always welcome!
Cheers all,
Dave.
Alright... where were we...
All that was left to do was make my first casting!
Here are the results!
I find it quite amazing to look at it once again with no paint.... It looks rather dull and incomplete next to it's mama!
For my first go... I couldn't be happier with the outcome! (for both the mold and the casting)
Here is a video I made throughout the mold making process...
It is not a tutorial... I just decided to share what I have done.
Enjoy!
**** Smooth On Dragon Skin - First Time Making A Mold ****
Well that's about it for now, it's been a busy and expensive week!
As per normal... An questions/comments/critiques... Always welcome!Cheers all,
Dave.
Last edited by a moderator:
Macattack64
Well-Known Member
That looks amazing! The inside of that mold looks so smooth. I want to crawl inside of it and live there!! Haha
Cereal Killl3r
Well-Known Member
Lol, Thanks Mac!
I'm quite happy with how it came out! Now the casting assembly line can start!
lolNow the casting assembly line can start!
*Grabs the tent, coffee maker, and sleeping bag and runs to be the first one in line* That looks great! I really like how it came out. Do you have any idea on how much the price of a cast would be? I've already started saving for one of these bad boys.
I probably sound like a fangirling little boy right now, which isn't far from the truth.
Macattack64
Well-Known Member
If I didn't already have a helmet, I'd probably go for one of these.. but then I'd have to upgrade EVERYTHING on my suit to match the quality!
L05T V1K1N6
Active Member
Terry Crews or Isaiah Mustafa?
Cereal Killl3r
Well-Known Member
Lol!
I'll post details about the availability of purchasing casts in the next day or so.
Sit tight, am on it!
If I didn't already have a helmet, I'd probably go for one of these.. but then I'd have to upgrade EVERYTHING on my suit to match the quality
Cereal Killl3r
Well-Known Member
I ended up doing 5 layers in total. Just wanted to be sure.
Lol, I'm going to be doing some casts this weekend, just need to figure out how many I'm going to be doing first
Its so pretty... *wipes a tear from face* lol
Great job dave
Thanks man!
Happy you like!
Alright all, I'm going to be doing some casts of the helmet this weekend, who ever is interested in one let me know by PM, just so I can get a feel of how many I'm dealing with.
I don't yet know how many I will cast in total, but there will not be too many.
Cheers,
Dave.
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