Does this buying list has everything necesary to finish my helmet?

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Sarigueya2

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I've already done the pepakura... but I'm now going to shop the materials... is this all??
Unti-Dust Spray Industrial Chemical Gas Respirator Mask: (So you can breathe when your old)

RUBBER GLOVES/ INDUSTRIAL USE: (Who wants skin cancer)

2 PAIR CLEAR WOOD WORKING SAFTEY GLASSES NEW: (You may need your eyes to finish the project)

DREMEL MULTIPRO MODEL 395 WITH CASE AND ACCESSORIES: (For cutting and sanding Bondo)

200 1/2"-1/4" SANDING BANDS WORK W/DREMEL ACCESSORIES: (For the Dremel)

QUART BONDO AUTOMOTIVE BODY FILLER W/ HARDENER 262: (For detailing your Armor)

FIBERGLASS RESIN by FIBERGLASS EVERCOAT - QT: (To harden your Pepp)

Acetone: (Used to thin Resin and clean brushes)

2" White Bristle Chip Paintbrush: (Brushing on Resin and some paint)

1.43 oz 1080 38" Fiberglass Cloth 50 yd roll: (To add strength to your Pepp, Only use inside)

100 PopSicle Sticks Craft Sticks Plain Wood Naut.Color: (Used to do Bondo and stir Resin)

And some paintings
 
I'd suggest buying one of THESE as well as two or three sheets of low-grit sandpaper. Together, you can get the majority of your sanding done, and then finish it off with some high-grit sanding paper. Unless you are very experienced, I have some doubts that you'll be able to effectively sand off layers of Bondo well with just a Dremel. Speaking of Dremel, though, you may consider picking up a set of round Dremel rotary disks for sawing pieces in two (for example, separating the front and back of a Spartan torso). I've found them quite useful. If you're doing a full suit and want it very smooth, I'd suggest the gallon can of Bondo. For the price, it's worth it. As for painting, make sure you buy some automotive primer to use on the piece one or two times before applying the final paintjob. After sanding, your piece may have Bondo, resin and paper exposed. Each of these materials absorb different amounts of spray paint. To fix the resulting spots and marks after your first coat of primer, lightly sand the piece with high-grit sandpaper and then wipe the piece with a wet rag, allowing the piece to dry by air. After doing so once or twice, those spots and marks should disappear ...
 
Looks like everything is there except for the cardstock and the tape...or are those already purchased?

You may also want to look into a visor and electrical supplies (wires, batteries, LEDs, fans) to complete your helmet. Or look into vents.

Hope this helps :]
 
thank you to you both... I've already armed the pepakura.... but well is the fiberglass going to be outside too?? because I really haven't found the steps good and in a tutorial he said it was outside too
 
I suggest getting a round or square hand sander. It much better for large surfaces and curvature. Also, a Dremel Multimax tool is very good for getting edges and corners.
 
Your list looks great, except that I would add a bag of chemical brushes (Harbor Freight, if you have one. If not, they look like this: )
image_870.jpg

$2 for a bag of 36 At your local Harbor Freight or online here.
These brushes work great because they can be dunked straight in acetone, used to mix the fiberglass, carry a lot of resin, are disposable, and are great for detail work. I use only these, and haven't touched my inch and 2 inch brushes yet, and I'm nearly done glassing.
 
ok i have to say this gloves are a blessing but if you don't have them your not going to get skin cancer

No, but it's a bitch to wash half-cured resin off of fingers, and you'll never get it out from under your nails (I Should know, I even used Gojo pumice hand soap and there's still some on my arm).
Personally, I go for the blue Nitrile gloves at Home Depot, Not because of latex allergies, but because they're a bit more chemically resistant to resins and acetones than natural latex.

Oh, And resin does contain a carcinogen, so it's not entirely out of the question.
 
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