*Finished(?) Pg 12* 13-Year-Old's Non-Toxic Spartan-III build

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I don't recommend hot glue method because you have to buy a lot of hot glue sticks but if you still have to use this stuff you should buy the full size glue sticks in bulk from any home improvement store. Even my foam armor I used 15 full size glue sticks already.
 
I'm hoping to cut down on Hot Glue since I'll use the Hot Glue w/ Cardboard method, except I'll be using foam board.

Are there any cheaper alternatives to Bondo?
 
I'm hoping to cut down on Hot Glue since I'll use the Hot Glue w/ Cardboard method, except I'll be using foam board.

Are there any cheaper alternatives to Bondo?

The best way to go is just to spend the 30 dollars on the resin and Bondo, it's A LOT easier, and not super-blow-your-budget-expensive.
 
umm, if you put alot of REALLY thin layers of Spackle, then you can sand it down and get a smoother edge.. its just a theory so dont expect it to work as well as bondo because spackle needs to be thin to dry. at least i think it does..
 
Yeah, I'm starting ti think the hot glue method won't be very strong unless I super supereinforce it. I'll talk to my parents about the fiberglass.

Looks like I'll be glassing it, but I still have to wait for my dad to get home. Also: Crap! I'm using WASHABLE Elmer's glue! I just went to pour some more onto my scrap paper and I noticed it wasn't the All-Purpose. Will it dissolve in resin?
 
I'm double posting because this post is an update with a PICTURE! :)

I've made a PhotoBucket profile instead of an ImageShack now. Except now, PhotoBucket is taking a LOOOOONG time to load. I'm using ImageShack.

Here's my progress on the Chestpiece:


And so far, that's it. Sorry to disappoint.

In an unrelated matter, I think I've found my weapon prop. It's an Airzone Shoot n Shatter, also known as the Lanard Shell Shock. Kinda looks like a magnum if you modify it and get rid of the mag.



Credit to Nerf Mods & Reviews for the Shell Shock pic.
 
lol, if your having trouble with pictures, use a website called majhost.com links dont work immediatly but deep links do. Thats what i use so its a good size and it loads fast :D
and that gun would need alot of cutting on the front parts :p especially the part infront of the trigger.
 
Yeah, now that I think about it that wouldn't work. Oh well, I'll find a way to do something with my Nerf guns.

Edit: I just remembered that I live in a moderately cool climate, and Fiberglass Resin requires a certain temperature. What is the minimum amount of degrees does it have to be outside to fiberglass? Also, I still need to know if the Washable glue is fine for resin.
 
I finished my chestpiece last night. Pictures coming as soon as it gets brighter outside.

In the meantime, my parents say it's ok to fiberglass the armor, but they're worried about how much it'll smell afterward. If I leave it outside right when I wake up, and bring it in the garage during the night, about how long would it be until the smell goes away and I'm able to wear it the whole day without any effects?

EDIT: My dad just remembered that fiberglass wears out eventually, and the fibers would come off a little by little. So he says he would rather spend more money on hot glue than risk my health.

I think instead of Bondo, I'll use paper mache. How well does that sand down?
 
Looks like I'll be glassing it, but I still have to wait for my dad to get home. Also: Crap! I'm using WASHABLE Elmer's glue! I just went to pour some more onto my scrap paper and I noticed it wasn't the All-Purpose. Will it dissolve in resin?

I've used washable elmers glue and it works fine with resin.

Also, have your father check into smoothcast 320. It is a stronger option to hot glue and paper mache. Only use it on the inside of the piece. it will retain the details with only a few "drip spots" where there is a gap in the piece. You can hot glue the joints to plug up any holes.

The smoothcast does run around $79 USD, but I believe that price should do a whole suit.

REMEMBER: Use gloves and a respirator. It's not suppose to be dangerous, but just be safe.
 
Well, I've got the pictures now.





I'm not sure about smoothcast, seems a bit pricey. Also, aqua resin is either 7 hours away, or I have to order online. This armor is temporary anyway, just needs to be wearable.
 
Does it count as a double post if it's the next day? Anyway, my dad's giving fiberglass another thought. When fully cured, do the fibers separate after a while? That's the reason my dad doesn't want to glass it.
 
im pretty sure its still a double post. but i would get a whole suit done first before you glass a piece so you can do it all at once. and if you do it correctly, if i am right, it shouldnt separate because the resin will hold it in place.
 
Hey bro, im also thirteen and i am working on the same kind of deal. i know its late into the year, but my props that i have started are looking descent for the first try. Well good luck to you and hope you make your deadline.
 
It seems like I'll make my deadline, at the rate I'm going. I think if I use the Hot Glue w/ Cardboard method, it'll be simplified. I also will most likely use Paper Mache Pulp as an alternative to Bondo, as I've heard that it can be sanded smooth.
 
Update with Pictures:
I started and finished the left shoulder today.



And here's all that I've finished so far:

Sorry for the finger in the lens. (How did I not see that?)



In other matters, I'll go with resining my armor. However, it wasn't the resin my dad was worried about, it was the cloth. So instead of glass cloth, we'll use gauze, or some old rags. Still don't know about the bondo. I might go with my paper mache pulp idea.
 
I'm not sure you can replace fiberglass cloth with rags.. or gauze.. if I were you, I would get some rubber gloves, and use THOSE to handle the fiberglass!! or use fiberglass chunks!
 
I read somewhere here that strips of cotton from old T-Shirts function just like glass cloth, but weaker. Of course I'll be using rubber gloves to handle the resin, and a respirator.
 
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