Been looking. Can't find one good enough.
Seriously though, that is epic.
You've walked us through the basic technique you've used in previous posts, but I'm having trouble putting that technique with those results. If that makes sense. Did you do something differently?
Thanks man!! I can do a write up on how I did this paint job. Alot going on but honestly quite simple if you break down the steps and trust yourself. I honestly don't think it's possible to get any closer to halo 3 color and light changing characteristics. Literally holding these pieces in person up to the tv with halo3 theater on. It's identical, pics don't really do justice.
Process:
Essentially 2 coats for a good base coat of the enamel latex house paint directly on the leak seal, (sherwin William's oakmoss for halo 3). No need for primer, it just cracks. House paint is heavy bodied and covers everything it goes over
Next I high light the edges using my airbrush with light tan color acrylic, at this point it looks bad, but trust yourself! Then I go back over the tan lightly with the same oakmoss base paint. This will give a good green worn edge look more or less, but still look totally bland. From there, paint all your little different colored pieces on the armor like buckles, nose pieces, vents and whatever else. I use my airbrush for that as well with tons of different mixtures even did a little shadow shading on some detail pieces with the airbrush for added depth (hardly anything is just painted striaght black) From there I do 2 watery black washes and use these to essentially adjust the base paint to the somewhat final color I want the armor to have. Then I I simulate the grim and crevasse charring using black water soluble oil paint, that's important. Some lacquer base oil paints will strip any paint off previously laid. I just massage the oil paint into the crevasses with paint brush and blend it out to desire and rub it in and off with micro rags. If you mess up and get the black where you don't want it, alchohol doesn't take it off but I found spit and water takes it off fine. Haha Once totally done with that I brush on a watery layer of brown wash and let it dry totally from a wet state.
From there I use a variety of metallic paint pens, and upholstery foam to make scratches. Honestly I use the foam the most, It really makes the scratches look real. I build up my scratches in layers using a steel color, then a dark metallic silver and last metallic silver for scratches I want to pop. Sometimes I lay a base of black before the metallic silvers to make it pop more. Some scratches I sponge brown back over them to look like dirt settled over the scratches for age.
Once totally happy, I seal it with that deco art clear sealer. It's the lowest impact clear coat I've found and is pretty durable and very flexible , alcohol or paint thinner doesn't even strip it off. For the mud effect, once I clear coat the piece, I sponge on various mixtures of brown using a course pore sponge to build up layers of mud over the clear. And like real mud, I don't clear coat over it because if it wears off then cool, so does real mud. I want the mud to have that grimy matte dirt look and not have a glossy surface from a clear. Here is a pic of all the paints used on this build