"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

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After.

If you do it before, it will be easier, but there is no guarantee the pieces will fit back together after you harden them. A good example is the most common one - visors. If you want to keep the visor to make a vac-form buck later, you need to harden it first before cutting it out, since the paper can shift and warp and bend in the time between cutting and hardening. BUT if you just have it in and intend to toss it, you STILL want to keep it in until AFTER hardening. The visor serves an important role in keeping the front from collapsing, and if you want the best quality of build and the lowest chance of collapsing, you'll want the visor to stay in until the thing is hardened however you want to harden it.
 
Basically its up to your own skill level. Like Katsu said, if you cut it before you harden it, it will more than likely warp just a little bit. If you cut it after everything is hard, It will fit together exactly as it looked before it was cut. From what Ive read through my years here, it is reccomended after everything is all hard. If you put in clips/buckles it is easier to get them to line up as well. Good luck and keep us informed which ever way you decide. Picture would be awesome!
 
one square yard should get you through two layers of torso. It's not that expensive, I usually get three yards at a time for 18 bucks to have some to spare.

If you want to just start out, a square yard will last long enough.
 
Hello! Quick safety question! So yesterday I decided to do my first Resin job. I wore gloves and a respirator with Organic vapor cartridges. I also worked outside. I could still smell the resin even through the respirator, so what I did was hold my breath until I couldn't, turn around, and breath clean air. Should I be concerned? I don't have any sideffects like a cough. Should I get a different respirator? I'm using one that is for Mold and Lead paint removal but with Organic Vapor cartridges. If I need a new one which should I get? And if I'm going to do this should I have a fan pointing the fumes away when I work?
 
If you smell it, the cartridges aren't loaded right, or the mask isn't sealed to your face, or the cartridges are old and need replacing.

Quick breathes are benign in the short term, prolonged exposure or deep breathes of resin can cause irritation in the short run, and possibly cancer in the long.

If you have a working respirator, that's all you need. If the one you have is having troubles, maybe look into getting a mask and cartridges already assembled, maybe the one you have isn't compatible with the cartridges? I don't know for sure, but I'd first check the seals on the cartridges and your face.
 
I did my first resin job without a respirator at all. I was high as a kite by the end of it. Aside from the funny outcome of that, my throat was sore for three days and i had a head ache for about 6 hours causing a serious lack of sleep. For a delivery driver (my job) thats not a good thing.
 
If you smell it, the cartridges aren't loaded right, or the mask isn't sealed to your face, or the cartridges are old and need replacing.

Quick breathes are benign in the short term, prolonged exposure or deep breathes of resin can cause irritation in the short run, and possibly cancer in the long.

If you have a working respirator, that's all you need. If the one you have is having troubles, maybe look into getting a mask and cartridges already assembled, maybe the one you have isn't compatible with the cartridges? I don't know for sure, but I'd first check the seals on the cartridges and your face.

It came with four filters, and two cartridges, should I load two filters in one cartridge? When I try to the clear cover doesn't come down and click like it says it should.
 
I'm building my first pepakura piece ever, a noble 6 helm. Ive already aplied one coat of fiberglass resin to the inside and outside, but should I add more layers for extra toughness or is one enough?
 
It came with four filters, and two cartridges, should I load two filters in one cartridge? When I try to the clear cover doesn't come down and click like it says it should.

Show us a picture of your respirator and cartridges. We might be able to help you better then.
 
I'm building my first pepakura piece ever, a noble 6 helm. Ive already aplied one coat of fiberglass resin to the inside and outside, but should I add more layers for extra toughness or is one enough?

Usually one either side is enough before you go to a rondo slush mix on the inside or straight to fibreglass mat. It depends what paper stock you are using. I use 200gsm card-stock for mine.
 
So my question has to do with using foam with resin and bondo. So im trying to add pop up details on a pep model. Now, i have heard that resin makes the foam hot enough to melt/disform it. I was originally going to add the detail on before i resined and spray plasti dip on the foam. But im not sure if the foam can still keep its shape. Should i resin the piece and bondo and then add the foam? Or should i use a different material to add on detail? If so what? Or should i do something entirely different?
 
So my question has to do with using foam with resin and bondo. So im trying to add pop up details on a pep model. Now, i have heard that resin makes the foam hot enough to melt/disform it. I was originally going to add the detail on before i resined and spray plasti dip on the foam. But im not sure if the foam can still keep its shape. Should i resin the piece and bondo and then add the foam? Or should i use a different material to add on detail? If so what? Or should i do something entirely different?

You could try mat board instead of foam for accent details. You can find it in places like Hobby Lobby in the picture frame department. It's paper-based, so it won't deform when resined. I recommend resining and bondoing, then adding the mat board detail, then applying a layer of resin over the mat board so it paints the same as the rest of the model.
 
You could try mat board instead of foam for accent details. You can find it in places like Hobby Lobby in the picture frame department. It's paper-based, so it won't deform when resined. I recommend resining and bondoing, then adding the mat board detail, then applying a layer of resin over the mat board so it paints the same as the rest of the model.

Thanks, i will look into it.
 
afte fiberglassing

so i finished fiberglassing the inside and a coat of only resin on the outside so i want to be shire of a couple things.

1. i bondo is next right?

2. how do i cover up the fiber glass on the inside/what do you do to the inside eventually to make it wearable and not get scratched an splintered
 
so i finished fiberglassing the inside and a coat of only resin on the outside so i want to be shire of a couple things.

1. i bondo is next right?

2. how do i cover up the fiber glass on the inside/what do you do to the inside eventually to make it wearable and not get scratched an splintered

Thats personal preference. Most would do a rondo coat around the inside of the helmet. I would too just to provide a sruface for the lining of the inside to stick to. It also covers up the little sharp edges left behind by the fibreglass.

Bondo for the outside should be done first in my own opinion. That way you wont bugger up the inside lining. Also just my own preference for doing things. But yeah.... I would do the Bondo first.
 
1) i yes
2) Rondo


Rondo???? what is that i can only find the basket ball player from the celtics when i looked it up. and you put it on the fiber glass matt on the inside of the helmet right? cus i know you apply the matt with resin but you put rondo over it to make it wearable? i dunno.
 
Rondo???? what is that i can only find the basket ball player from the celtics when i looked it up. and you put it on the fiber glass matt on the inside of the helmet right? cus i know you apply the matt with resin but you put rondo over it to make it wearable? i dunno.

Rondo is a slushy mix to your own taste of Resin and Bondo (Rondo). You put bondo in a container, pour in resin to make it nice and sloppy, then add enough hardener/catalyst to give you time to paste/slush it all in before it goes off. You don't want it too stiff or to harden too quickly or it gets very lumpy very quickly. You want it to be sloppy enough to self-level.
 
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