"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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EVAkura
Well-Known Member
Either one of two things are going on here. First would be you possibly have not waited long enough. Some of the resins I have used takes up to 24 hours to cure all the way. But more often than not, it is an inaccurate mix ratio. It is imperative that you get it dead-on accurate, especially if it is a 2/1 or 1/1 mix ratio. I have eyeballed mine in the past (it is a 2/1 ratio mix) and ended up with resin that stays flexible and will never harden up. I have even gone so far as to let it sit for a couple of days, but still stayed the same. It is a pain, but make sure you get it right. This is why testing on scrap is always a good practice to get into, especially when working with new and unfamiliar materials.
Also, I saw in your other post that the hot glue came a part on you. This could be caused from the heat generated from the curing process of the resin. In the future, try to putting on a really thin coat to begin with, then after that has cured and hardened, you can go thicker and even add the fiberglass.
Hope this helps you out some!
Also, I saw in your other post that the hot glue came a part on you. This could be caused from the heat generated from the curing process of the resin. In the future, try to putting on a really thin coat to begin with, then after that has cured and hardened, you can go thicker and even add the fiberglass.
Hope this helps you out some!
ianaconda
New Member
Ok i will wait and will ceck it again tomorrow and i have a little question is it possible that the polyester will not get harden without the fiberglass ? I only add a polyester only coat from the out side maybe its shoul mix with the fiberglass ?!
And if that project faild what happend if i applyed the fiberglass and the polyester from the inside without the first coat from the out side ? Will it destroy the cardstock ? Or is it ok and the first coat of polyester is optional ?
And if that project faild what happend if i applyed the fiberglass and the polyester from the inside without the first coat from the out side ? Will it destroy the cardstock ? Or is it ok and the first coat of polyester is optional ?
EVAkura
Well-Known Member
Fiberglass does not aid in the curing process at all. It is there simply to bond with the resin to make it stronger. You could do it from the inside or the outside on the first coat. Most will do the outside first, but that is optional. Regardless of which you do first though, it should be a very thin coat and without the fiberglass. Generally speaking, there needs to be enough resin to saturate the fiberglass, and that would be excessive and more than likely will cause everything to warp and sag. My suggestion is to figure out the correct mixture to get the resin to cure hard, then go from there.
ianaconda
New Member
i did all what you said and now its very hard 
like a rock i did to layers to know if it will ever harden and not its like a rock what do i go for in next time 1 or 2 layers ?
and BTW is that polyester and fiber glass is toxic ? some of the fiberglass needles get into my hand and the rubber gloves and and it get drop or two of blood and it burns a little so i want to be sure if this toxic or not
like a rock i did to layers to know if it will ever harden and not its like a rock what do i go for in next time 1 or 2 layers ? and BTW is that polyester and fiber glass is toxic ? some of the fiberglass needles get into my hand and the rubber gloves and and it get drop or two of blood and it burns a little so i want to be sure if this toxic or not
RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
You gonna die...!!! :eek But not until your blood first hardens like a rock! lol
Just kidding, but yes, the stuff is toxic and you really should use an organic vapors respirator and gloves while using polyester resin. I'd also recommend a particulate dust mask and goggles when filing/sanding the hardened resin and bondo.
ianaconda
New Member
Hahahaha you made my day thanks for the replay i use all these stuff but the fiberglass needle make a hole into the gloves and on my hand so is this dangerous or is it only toxic for breath only ?
EVAkura
Well-Known Member
The fiberglass is not toxic by itself. It does suck to get it in your hand though. Just imagine, it is tiny strands of fibered glass... that is pretty much all it is. Just don't inhale the "dust" it creates, or that too will go in your lungs and do the same thing it did to your hands
The resin is toxic, but not as bad as it sounds. It is good to keep it off your skin and the fumes out of your lungs... so a pair of thicker throw-away gloves is recommended, and as stated by RobotChicken, so is a good respirator. The one you need to really watch out for is the hardener... it usually is comprised of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) which is some pretty gnarly stuff. All in all, protect yourself from all of it as much as possible... and I am glad to hear it hardened for you... that is a really good thing How many layers you do is totally up to you. That is going to be your judgment call on when you think it is thick enough. There are too many personal opinions about how thick or thin it "should" be, when it really depends when you personally think it has reached that perfect medium between strength and thickness while keeping in mind the overall weight
ianaconda
New Member
ok thanks
Now i am on the bondo level but it so hard to use bondo on the helmet and the trinkets at the same time so i will never do that again but i have a question on the future if i do a bondo on the helmet and i want to glue the trinkets to it and after that i use the bondo on it what should i use to glue it to the bondo helmet hot glue or white glue ?
Now i am on the bondo level but it so hard to use bondo on the helmet and the trinkets at the same time so i will never do that again but i have a question on the future if i do a bondo on the helmet and i want to glue the trinkets to it and after that i use the bondo on it what should i use to glue it to the bondo helmet hot glue or white glue ?
ianaconda
New Member
sorry for that i mean the part on the front
http://fc01.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2012/030/f/0/magneto_helmet__15_by_raultumba-d4o4n8v.jpg
the gray part
http://fc01.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2012/030/f/0/magneto_helmet__15_by_raultumba-d4o4n8v.jpg
the gray part
angel62sir
Active Member
Hi BendyBenz, I've used both the p38 and this stuff http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_172173_langId_-1_categoryId_165625, I've not had any problems with either as it is or making rondo so far. Hope that helps
This is really helpful thank you!!
angel62sir
Active Member
Ianaconda, I would always resin the outside and inside, then rondo inside. As for the smoothing I'd use thin coats of filler (little and often). Cereal killer has super helpful tuts if you get stuck
angel62sir
Active Member
I've never used rondo on the outside of parts but I assume that it's sandable. Wet standings easy, instead of me explaining there's tuts on YouTube that can do a better job. By 'spray primer filler' do you mean spray primer? If so I can pick up decent primer in the £shop here in the uk. Any primer but plastic will do the job
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