"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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Cereal Killl3r
Well-Known Member
What exactly is it that has not cured?
Are you refering to Resin, rondo, bondo or the spot putty?
Inside or outside of the piece?
The spot putty. The stuff you squeeze from a tube and apply haha. I'm really perplexed by this and I can't seem to find any info on google about this issue I'm having.
Prettyfloralbonnet
Jr Member
The only two occasions I've run across where the tube filler didn't cure in about 20 minutes was: 1) I mistakenly used the hardener tube instead 2) Filler was applied too thickly. I suppose it's also possible that you have a bad batch of the stuff.
Yea I'm positive it was a bad tube since I used the same stuff for my pistol and it worked fine that time. Ugh...what a mess. Time to scrape it off and start over.
Just got a quick question.
I'm planning on trimming the fiberglass to get rid of all the excess fiberglass and i was just wondering if my respirator is suitable for the job ?
http://www.colinharbut.com/art/3M-Odor-Latex-Respirator/safety-health/protective-clothing-gear/respirators-masks/
I figure respirators all do the same job but i'd like to make sure just to be safe.
Thanks in advance
I'm planning on trimming the fiberglass to get rid of all the excess fiberglass and i was just wondering if my respirator is suitable for the job ?
http://www.colinharbut.com/art/3M-Odor-Latex-Respirator/safety-health/protective-clothing-gear/respirators-masks/
I figure respirators all do the same job but i'd like to make sure just to be safe.
Thanks in advance
I'd say no.
That's more of just a mask than a full-on respirator. The cartridge based organic filter respirators are the generally accepted protection here, I think:
http://www.colinharbut.com/art/3M-E...h/protective-clothing-gear/respirators-masks/
It's more expensive, but it's because you're getting much more protection against the full spectrum. Latex respirators are really only good against paint fumes, from what I've seen.
That's more of just a mask than a full-on respirator. The cartridge based organic filter respirators are the generally accepted protection here, I think:
http://www.colinharbut.com/art/3M-E...h/protective-clothing-gear/respirators-masks/
It's more expensive, but it's because you're getting much more protection against the full spectrum. Latex respirators are really only good against paint fumes, from what I've seen.
Xarmymustang
Member
Just got a quick question.
I'm planning on trimming the fiberglass to get rid of all the excess fiberglass and i was just wondering if my respirator is suitable for the job ?
http://www.colinharbut.com/art/3M-Odor-Latex-Respirator/safety-health/protective-clothing-gear/respirators-masks/
I figure respirators all do the same job but i'd like to make sure just to be safe.
Thanks in advance
This one here is what i usehttp://www.amazon.com/MSA-Safety-Works-817663-Multi-Purpose/dp/B00009363G/ref=pd_cp_hi_0/180-3923554-2445517, it is made for all kinds of hazards Ideal for working with lead, asbestos, toxic dusts, fiberglass, ammonia, formaldehyde, or certain acid gases.
Thats if your working with polyester resins, but if your trimming off already cured resin and glass then your dust mask will be just fine
Bondo question here. I made a helmet last year and did a pretty decent job (IMO). However, it was a LD helmet and I'm in the process of making the HD Mk VI right now. I just finished the pep on the helmet and chest armor and HO-LE CRAP, that's some intricate detail. I'm worried that using the bondo as I did on my helmet last year will cause a lot of the insets and other small details to be totally obscured.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to apply bondo to something like this without losing all the detail?
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to apply bondo to something like this without losing all the detail?
coldevil123
Jr Member
Try not to use a lot of Bondo. If you make the pep as accurate as possible then you won't need to use much Bondo at all. Also make sure to not cake it on there. Small layers are the way to go.
As said by coldevil123, I agree.
Working sectionally is also important. And you should only be using bondo to smooth out the polygon shape pep gives. If a detailed area looks fine as is, you don't need to even touch it with bondo. If some small details got warped or something though, you may want to consider trying to fix it, but that can be VERY difficult and time consuming, so it's a judgement call really.
Working sectionally is also important. And you should only be using bondo to smooth out the polygon shape pep gives. If a detailed area looks fine as is, you don't need to even touch it with bondo. If some small details got warped or something though, you may want to consider trying to fix it, but that can be VERY difficult and time consuming, so it's a judgement call really.
I mean... if we're talking about bondo, you WANT it to dry... Sanding it while it's still curing sucks for the sandpaper.
If you're doing the reach chest, you'd probably not need to touch the control box thingy on the front. Then break the piece up by the shoulder things, the back, the rib things, and the ab plate. I'm just saying don't slap bondo onto the entire thing and then sand it, when you throw down some bondo just put a bit on over the area you're working on, because if you go covering the whole thing, you're more likely to cover areas that should be given special attention.
If you're doing the reach chest, you'd probably not need to touch the control box thingy on the front. Then break the piece up by the shoulder things, the back, the rib things, and the ab plate. I'm just saying don't slap bondo onto the entire thing and then sand it, when you throw down some bondo just put a bit on over the area you're working on, because if you go covering the whole thing, you're more likely to cover areas that should be given special attention.
Cyrus Cane
New Member
Hello everybody!
My first post, about my first project using Pepakura ^^ First i want to thank everybody here for your tips and infos, everyone of you is great!! I'm going to build a 1:1 model of my Halo Reach character and already have a Mark VI helmet fiberglassed and a test visor in it. Went good so far, but I'm not very happy with the fiberglass inside the helmet (itchy) so my question is following: Is it a good idea to use rondo over the fiberglass just to get a smooth surface inside or is it useless? The helmet is hard as hell, and very light, but the surface inside is very rough..
My first post, about my first project using Pepakura ^^ First i want to thank everybody here for your tips and infos, everyone of you is great!! I'm going to build a 1:1 model of my Halo Reach character and already have a Mark VI helmet fiberglassed and a test visor in it. Went good so far, but I'm not very happy with the fiberglass inside the helmet (itchy) so my question is following: Is it a good idea to use rondo over the fiberglass just to get a smooth surface inside or is it useless? The helmet is hard as hell, and very light, but the surface inside is very rough..
the itchiness is because of the resin as well, and rondo is half resin... and the bondo isn't too comfy either.
I think a very thick paint would be good (Like one that is meant for filling cracks and such) but you need to ensure it's well sealed. Alternatively you could slush cast a plastic inside, like plasti-dip or smoothon 321.
I think a very thick paint would be good (Like one that is meant for filling cracks and such) but you need to ensure it's well sealed. Alternatively you could slush cast a plastic inside, like plasti-dip or smoothon 321.
Cyrus Cane
New Member
Thanks for your reply Katsu. I'll try that after bondo stage..
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