"Help!" for: Foam

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by Carpathia, Nov 12, 2012.

  1. WandererTJ


    If it is just a spare gauntlet, feel free to test it.

    But please don't waste any materials/money on my behalf if you don't have anything to spare.

    Make sure you read EVAkura's post as well.

    I think that there might be ways to decrease the number of variables working against you, but it does seem like there could be complications.

    You might be able to improve your results with the resin by trying to carve out some of the foam. Just make sure that there are enough Polyurethane layers on it so that it will still maintain its structural integrity when you try to remove some of the foam.
    Given, if you have a layer that bonds to the foam, then it won't be possible to cleanly remove all the foam, but at least removing some of it should be helpful if one were to try this.

    Another thing that might work is if you only resin a section at a time rather than everything all at once. This way, the foam won't be as trapped under the resin and it would allow the chemicals to evaporate as the foam is dissolved. Obviously, making sure you wear a ventilation mask will be important, and it is even more important than when you are just using resin by itself without having chemical reactions and things dissolving.

    Now, if you resin it section by section, it could cause some weaknesses in the layer of resin, but once you got through the stage of dissolving the foam, you could come in with some more resin and some fiberglass cloth to make sure everything was nicely reinforced.

    As per a rondo stage, where you are filling the internal cavities, I'm not 100% sure on what the best way to play things safe would be, as you obviously wouldn't want it to get on the external surface, but fortunately, as far as I know, it should be fairly easy to sand off if it happens.

    Now maybe, there would be a way to add a layer between the foam and the polyurethane that doesn't bond with the foam which would allow for the foam to more easily be removed.
    One of my Navy buddies says he has something that he refers to as "resin tape" that he uses on aircrafts that you can bend and shape just by using a heat gun and that it shouldn't bond with or melt the foam, but I don't know much about it.
  2. BlueFreeze128


    Hi! I was wondering what kind of heat gun I should get. I've seen quite a few different kinds and I wanted to know which to get. also is a 10mm thick foam mat too thick or is that an ok size?
  3. colbs


    Any 20 dollar heat gun will do
  4. BlueFreeze128


    oh ok thank you!!!
  5. FoxtrotX146

    FoxtrotX146 Jr Member

    I was wondering on how I would be able to fill in seams. Does anyone have some tips on these kinds of situations?

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Attached Files:

  6. Zaff


    silicone glue/caulk might do the job. If the gap/seam is significant, maybe wedge a foam "shim" in there to fill up the bulk of the space so you don't have to try to fill it entirely with glue.
    FoxtrotX146 likes this.

    PSYCHO ARMY New Member

  8. EVAkura

    EVAkura RCO 405th Regiment Officer

  9. WandererTJ


    Do any of you know where the best place to look for Exacto Knives that have Flat Handles?

    I'm wanting one that can use interchangeable blades like an Exacto Knife, preferably #11 scalpel blades, but I can't find anything that doesn't have a round handle.

    I've seen some others using them, and I would definitely agree that having a flat/square handle would allow you to have more control of the blade, but I fear I'm having a bad day since I'm even failing at the google....

    Also, are mini hot glue guns okay to go with?
    Are "All Temp" Hot Glue Sticks acceptable? I can't find ones that say "High Temp" anywhere.

  10. Ashuraa

    Ashuraa Judicial Officer Division Staff 405th Regiment Officer

    WandererTJ You want High Temp glue sticks only. If it is an all temp, or multi temp it is going to melt to easily in normal wearing conditions. I find my high temp sticks at Hobby Lobby. Mini Glue guns are acceptable. As to where you need to find the flat knife, look for scalpel handles #3 if what I remember from EVAkura is correct.
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2017
  11. EVAkura

    EVAkura RCO 405th Regiment Officer

    All the above info is correct. I have yet to see high temp glue sticks in the mini size, so they may be a bit more difficult to find, but I am sure they make them :)
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2017
  12. Ashuraa

    Ashuraa Judicial Officer Division Staff 405th Regiment Officer

    I am actually able to find the mini hot glue sticks easier in my area then the full size ones. I can find both at Hobby Lobby. High temp glue is typically harder to find, but again i have found the mini High temp more readily, at Hobby Lobby, Micheal's, and AC Moore.
    EVAkura likes this.
  13. BGCrisis


    Lovely, I made sure to get a glue gun that was hi-temp, but all the glue where I shop was multi-temp. Seeing as I've already built my pieces, how horribly boned am I?
  14. Termhn


    Depends where you live. If it's cold out year round, you're not too boned. If not, you're pretty boned. Lol.
  15. BGCrisis


    Yeah, I wish it stayed cool-ish here all year. I'm in the Hotlanta area. If I reinforced the inside with foamies using hi-temp, would that maybe alleviate the possible issues, given it's going to be sealed?
  16. Termhn


    I'm not sure, I would think it would help a little bit at least

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. colbs


    Install a system of small fans inside keeping it cooler
  18. WandererTJ


    Yep, I actually bought some mini high-temp sticks at Hobby Lobby on Friday, I was staring at the mini hot glue guns, and I was like I know mine is orange, and I see that all these Low Temp ones are orange, but maybe mine is high-temp....

    It wasn't.

    Now I have to go back up to Hobby Lobby, my least favorite company in the whole world.... :cry

    Generally speaking,
    Orange Hot Glue Gun = Low Temp
    Blue Hot Glue Gun = High Temp

    Maybe you could take some leather strips and rivet them on the inner side and hide the rivets with foamies on the outside....
    Or maybe you could make an Aluminum frame that you would them attach the foam to.

    Does anyone know if Ultra High-Temp Hot Glue exists?
    I'm in Oklahoma.
    Pretty sure that needs no further explanation, but just in case, it's 101°F here, and that doesn't even include what the comfort level is raised to when you factor in humidity it feels like 110°F.

    Using a laser thermometer, the seats of my 1969 Chevelle can reach 190-200°F.
    Doesn't even have clear films of tint applied to the windows.
  19. Termhn


    High temp glue sticks should still be fine I think. The high temp guns are 380+ farenheit.

    At least, I hope so since I'm in Arizona where it routinely hits 115 :p
  20. noblesix8829

    noblesix8829 New Member

    I never thought of using calking to fill in the gaps I will remember next time when i start my build for my kids Halloween, I'm plan doing an ODST for my son and MY daughter Hello kitty I know that have nothing to do with Halo. Keep the good work every one.
  21. FoxtrotX146

    FoxtrotX146 Jr Member

    Does anyone have custom accurate H4 MC Forearm Templates for foam?? Besides Monkeyfuj's or KingRahl's model?? I know I'm asking for a lot here but it would be very helpful!
  22. Tron Paul

    Tron Paul New Member

    So after reading all SEVENTEEN PAGES of this thread, I must say I am quite disappointed. I'm not trying to be critical, but most of the time I spent on this thread was reading the same repeated questions and answers. Is there any way we can post a FAQ post at the beginning of this thread? Props to EVAkura and MoHawkMarine for providing great answers and staying patient through the repeat questions. Wanderer TJ: you've had some great thought-provoking questions. Thanks! And finally, props to Ravarkian for his great foam work. Dont think for one second that everyone should use his Noble Six build as a standard for most foam builds.

    I've had some cosplay experience over the years with some pepping and ABS (member of the 501st Legion). Although my experience is mostly from non-foam materials, may I be so bold as to offer a few suggestions?

    When attaching the finished pieces together, either through velcro attached to the undersuit or strapping, I've had continued success with snaps, velcro, buckles, and webbing. Sometimes having pieces strapped together is an easy way to keep things from slipping while wear. Having a belt made from webbing and snapping the leg pieces to it with webbing and elastic is a great way I've found to keep things together. I prefer not to use velcro because once it wears, its tough to replace. Sometimes the adhesive velcro can easily come off a smooth plastic-like surface.

    From what it seems, I'm probably going to use a standard utility knife with razor-sharp blades. I've noticed people lean towards the xacto blades, but I feel my control with the thicker blade will help make cleaner cuts. Matter of preference I guess...

    Here's a quick question: I've seen xRobot's tutorial on adding the smooth-on poly to eva pieces with PVA glue. Would be the best way to make the foam durable if I want a purely "plastic" finish? I've never used plasti-dip, but it seems there's a rubbery/shiny finish after using it and I'm not too sure I want the flexibility plasti-dip might have on my armor. I know using a matte paint would help prevent the "sheen," but would it also prevent the "give" and flexibility that plasti-dip seems to have?
  23. Ashuraa

    Ashuraa Judicial Officer Division Staff 405th Regiment Officer

    I have used Envirotex Lite Pour- On Resin to great effect. It made my foam armor have a nice hard surface that was easy to paint on. You need to do it is small batches, at 70 deg F at least in temperature. You paint it on in thin coats. Several thin coats makes a very durable, hard surface, that also can hide minor imperfections in either your build or the foam itself. It takes a few days to fully cure, but when it has done so then it can handle a good bit of abuse.
  24. Tron Paul

    Tron Paul New Member

    Thanks for the response! Glad to hear hardening techniques work for someone else.

    I did plenty of research on resin and rondo coating when I attempted a pep helmet. Unfortunately, the standard fiberglass resin would be tough given I have very little to work with when it comes to well ventilated heated areas. Hopefully the Smooth On poly resin technique works for matte applications. The "high gloss" finish isn't my ideal vision, but I'll keep it in mind!
  25. AnotherFanboy

    AnotherFanboy New Member

    I am newbie at the whole armor building, but I want to start. However, last I checked the pepakura program only works on Windows, not to mention this laptop is not mine in the first place. So I was wondering if I gave a list of the Mk V armor I want to build. Someone would be kind enough to unfold and send the files to my email? Is that to much to ask? Is it even possible?

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017

Share This Page