"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

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ive been haveing troubles with pepakura viewer 3. ive downloaded files and blueprints on this web site for pepakura but when i go to open them in the pepakura window they dont appear in my computers files. (they do when you go to start though) does anyone have any ideas how to fix this so i can print off and continue building.
 
ive been haveing troubles with pepakura viewer 3. ive downloaded files and blueprints on this web site for pepakura but when i go to open them in the pepakura window they dont appear in my computers files. (they do when you go to start though) does anyone have any ideas how to fix this so i can print off and continue building.

If you have the correct files, they will be .pdo files. If you have Pepakura Designer 3 installed, just double-click them to open just like any other file.
 
I am very new with Pepekura, and have been doing it for a week now. I seem to be doing alright, but some of the pieces aren't perfect. They fit perfect, they leave enough for padding and everything, but there just lobby, not aligned perfect, and I was wondering if there is anything I could do to maybe fix this? Or should I not be too worried since I am just a beginner and as I become more experinced this mistakes will become less and less?
 
I need help with this:
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/534/pepakura002copy.jpg

FROM THE BOTTOM: the SECOND line up what do i do? It doesnt look like a mountain or a valley fold, what do i do?

its like
tiny ------- like moutain folds, but its way tinier.

Sorry, but that picture is WAY too blurry to see what you mean.

What you can do is look at the thing in Pepakura Designer. The 3D model should tell you what it's supposed to look like.
 
pepakura borders

i just used pepakura desiner to scale my halo helmet so when it is completeed it will fit me but when i print is there are no borders for the peices it only prints the side id
 
Sorry, but that picture is WAY too blurry to see what you mean.

What you can do is look at the thing in Pepakura Designer. The 3D model should tell you what it's supposed to look like.

its -------------- But like 2x smaller than other ones, should i just fold it like a mountain fold?
 
Alright, I'm back with yet another question.

I'm starting to do some pep work on the Halo: Reach M9 Pistol and was wondering if by any means would it be acceptable to use clear tape to hold the pieces together, and then just hot glue over the tape to secure the pieces into place?

Thanks Again
 
Alright, I'm back with yet another question.

I'm starting to do some pep work on the Halo: Reach M9 Pistol and was wondering if by any means would it be acceptable to use clear tape to hold the pieces together, and then just hot glue over the tape to secure the pieces into place?

Thanks Again

The question is why woud you want to do that. Why can't you just use hot glue to begin with?

The next real question is what do you plan to use to harden the pistol. My understanding is resin will eat the clear tape. What other mess will it cause? I may never know because I would never use clear tape on any of the work that I do.
 
A solvent-free resin should work with tape. I think the bigger question is: How are you going to get the hot glue where you want it? The inside is closed up, no way to add glue there, and adding it to the outside destroys the shape of the model.
 
Question:

Is there an easier way to cut pepakura lines than spending 45min using an X-acto knife to cut out a piece this small? Or is this normal?

IMG_0441.jpg
 
Is there an easier way to cut pepakura lines than spending 45min using an X-acto knife to cut out a piece this small? Or is this normal?

[Picture]

There are cutting plotters that you can use, but that's obviously somewhat expensive. Search for "Craftrobo", there's a tutorial for using them with Pepakura somewhere in the Papercraft section.

As for cutting speed... A piece this size would take me about a minute to cut out. I have honestly no idea how you can spend 45 minutes on it?
You can save time by cutting outwards from all these little corners between the flaps - hitting the corner precisely is important, but the shape of the flap usually doesn't matter, unless the flap is awkwardly angled to accomodate the neighbouring face.
 
There are cutting plotters that you can use, but that's obviously somewhat expensive. Search for "Craftrobo", there's a tutorial for using them with Pepakura somewhere in the Papercraft section.

As for cutting speed... A piece this size would take me about a minute to cut out. I have honestly no idea how you can spend 45 minutes on it?
You can save time by cutting outwards from all these little corners between the flaps - hitting the corner precisely is important, but the shape of the flap usually doesn't matter, unless the flap is awkwardly angled to accomodate the neighbouring face.

Yea, I was trying to be axact using a edge ruler to make my edges perfect, but doing it freehand on the outer lines seemed faster. Thanks for the help!
 
Yea, I was trying to be axact using a edge ruler to make my edges perfect, but doing it freehand on the outer lines seemed faster. Thanks for the help!

Just do a few practice pieces free-hand, you'll probably get the hang of it after a while. Try moving your whole arm to pull the blade through the paper instead of moving your wrist or fingers, if you have trouble getting straight cuts.
 
Just do a few practice pieces free-hand, you'll probably get the hang of it after a while. Try moving your whole arm to pull the blade through the paper instead of moving your wrist or fingers, if you have trouble getting straight cuts.

Alright, Ill try that...Thanks for the tips!
 
I ended up learning to only use a ruler/straightedge on long lines. For the tabs, like Ventrue said, you don't have to be exact 100% of the time. Unless a tab can interfere with a "real" edge, then it's no problem to not follow their lines exactly. Heck, sometimes it's a good idea to make them bigger so that there's more surface area for glue.
 
I ended up learning to only use a ruler/straightedge on long lines. For the tabs, like Ventrue said, you don't have to be exact 100% of the time. Unless a tab can interfere with a "real" edge, then it's no problem to not follow their lines exactly. Heck, sometimes it's a good idea to make them bigger so that there's more surface area for glue.

So its better to have excess near the lines than cutting inside the lines, which bring up another question, if I cut past the line by accident, do i need to redo that piece?
 
So its better to have excess near the lines than cutting inside the lines, which bring up another question, if I cut past the line by accident, do i need to redo that piece?

That depends. If you cut line lies on a valley fold, excess will be in the way when you put it together. If it's on a mountain fold, you can just shift it so that the two lines are on top of each other. The important thing is that you know where the edge of the face should be, so that you can compensate for bad cutting when you put the pieces together.

What I like to do is make sure that I perfectly hit all corners. Those are great for aligning the edge, even if your cut looks like a solar flare.
 
So its better to have excess near the lines than cutting inside the lines,
Only for the tabs, since they are not visible elements of the piece nor do they really provide the shape.

which bring up another question, if I cut past the line by accident, do i need to redo that piece?
Most likely not. If there's too much, trim it. If it's too little, line up everything else correctly and just figure that any tiny gaps will be fixed later with Bondo.

Otherwise, what Ventrue said holds true concerning the types of folds.
 
Hello Everyone.
I was wondering if i could get some help with my pepakura. im going to be making a M6D magnum and i want to know if i just use normal paper or do i need specific thicker paper? also should i put things in the gun or outside of it to strengthen it?
 
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