Is 110ibls The Only Kind Of Cardstock

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Guilty spartan3

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i was trying to use the recommended cardstock but my printer cant take it. So then i bought a new set of cardstock that was the second heaviest set but i cant remember what it was. anyway i need to know if it will work and if not what kind of alterative is there. ;) :(
 
box o crayons said:
yea it should work it just wont be as strong and sturdy and hold its shape but what strenght was the second one you bought
the set at my moms funiture store is 67ilbs and mine is a bit heavier
 
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Guilty Spartan3 said:
i don't know what kind of printer to use. mine is a brother MFC and my moms is to but iim not sure if my school one works.

I have a Brother MFC-465CN and it handles 110 lb cardstock without a problem. Must be something wrong with your printer.

Believe it or not, normal printer paper will actually work for what you need if you use Flying Squirrel's hi-def files with all of the support struts. I just got done with FS's Torso and I actually don't need any of the support struts because it's made of 110 lb.

If you do use regular 25 lb printer paper you will need to be very careful and use at least 2 coats of resin on the outside and fiberglass matting on the inside. DO NOT USE FIBERGLASS FABRIC IF YOU ARE BACKING PRINTER PAPER, it will be too flexible and too thin and your armor will crack shortly after you put it on so use matting only. There will be an abundance of low spots to bondo as well, but whatever works right?

Other than that, good luck!
 
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Guilty Spartan3 said:
so your basically saying that i can use my version of cardstock if i use the ones with support structures :D
and also mine is a brother MFC-240C wich might have a different thikness setting.
 
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60 or higher pound cardstock may work even w/o the supports, just experiment with smaller pieces before going for a large job. If you want to be sure, add them. Like BFD said, even regular printer paper could work.

I've noticed a discrepancies between the actual stiffness/thickness of cardstock between the different suppliers I've used (not all for Pepakura, some for class and extra-curricular projects). Some of the stuff labeled as 110 behaves more like another company's 98 or lower, and this generic stuff I got from Sam's is like 110+.

Another thing that causes difficulty during printing is paper feed angles. Top-feeding trays have worked better for me than bottom tray fed (where the paper has to flex ~180 degrees) supplies, excepting the one industrial strength printer I used (and had to un-jam 3 times) at work.
 
my printer comes takes paper from the bottom so maybe thats why. and also i already printed out a ow detaile helmet and was wondering that if i made the low detail helmet but fiberglassed it first would it still work o_O
 
Try loading the printer with one sheet at a time. Even material as thick as chipboard should print. Test it using the paper feed/paper jam button (if any). You can also mist the side not being printed on lightly with water so it moves through the printer spools easier.

Not too much water, unless you want to buy a new printer.
 
dungbeetle said:
Try loading the printer with one sheet at a time. Even material as thick as chipboard should print. Test it using the paper feed/paper jam button (if any). You can also mist the side not being printed on lightly with water so it moves through the printer spools easier.

Not too much water, unless you want to buy a new printer.

Agreed, I had to do this with my old printer, I didnt wet the sides, but I had to run it one sheet at a time. Its was a pain, but it worked.
 
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ok thanks for the help i realy appreciate it and i just got some glue so i will try the one sheat at a tim thing after i test build a helmet using the weaker cardstock. :D
 
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