Mendez's Halo weapon 3D print file dump [Download] (HELP NEEDED)

CPO mendez

Member
Hello 405th! To christen the brand-spankin-new site, i thought I'd share my freshly made, 3D printable halo weapons!

Long story short, i found an old flash drive FILLED with old pepakura files. after a little trip down nostalgia lane, i realized that i could import these old models into maya, slice and dice em, and make them 3D printable!

So that's what i did!
(i've also included labeled Build guides in case things get confusing)

COVENANT CARBINE
[Download]
Carbine.png

Build Guide
Carbine guide.png


STORM RIFLE
[Download]

Storm Rifle.png

Build guide
Storm rifle guide.png


RAILGUN
[Download]

Railgun.png

Build guide
Railgun guide.png


SUPPRESSOR
[Download]

Suppressor.png

Build guide
Suppressor guide.png


LIGHT RIFLE [needs fixing]

[Download]
Light Rifle.png

Build guide
Light rifle guide.png


MA5B
[Download]

AR.png

Build guide
AR Guide.png



And that's everything i got so far!
I went through EVERYTHING with a fine-tooth comb to make sure every single piece added up properly to make all the weapons canon size (dimensions taken from Halo: a visual guide) and arranged all the pieces to minimize awkward support material, just to make it super easy. it's just download and print. however, my Robo3D has a pretty big build plate, which i kinda relied on when cutting the pieces. it shouldn't be too much of an issue for most pieces, but some of the wider ones may not fit on the smaller build plates. i can fiddle and fix certain pieces if you let me know.

However, like the title says, i do need a little help. i was relying heavily on the windows azure 3D model repair toolkit to make the sliced models "airtight", but its an automatic service, so it's not 100%. the Light Rifle is the only one affected, and i've marked the STLs that need fixing. so if someone with more modeling skills than me could get in there and try to fix it, i'll be sure to put a big fat thank you at the top once its done!

Lastly: if you have any high-res prop files, send them my way! i only had a few to work with (and am still working on more that i'll add once they're done) and i wanna do more! Otherwise, enjoy!
 
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LyricalVillain

New Member
Oh wow! Thank you for sharing these! I just got a 3d Printer and started printing a Halo Magnum with a moving trigger slide and removable Mag. These look great!
 

Crimmson

Well-Known Member
Thank you very much. I finally convinced my chief financial officer(wifey) that we should get a 3d printer. how do you go about slicing these up?
 

CPO mendez

Member
Oh wow! Thank you for sharing these! I just got a 3d Printer and started printing a Halo Magnum with a moving trigger slide and removable Mag. These look great!
No problem! happy to contribute. I did want to at least TRY to put in movable parts (i think i seperated the ammo "cowl" and ammo cylinder from the carbine so they can be functional) but with the promethean weapons with all their moving parts and floaty bits, there was no way i had enough skill to do it properly.

Thank you very much. I finally convinced my chief financial officer(wifey) that we should get a 3d printer. how do you go about slicing these up?
I just dumped them into maya, switched to a top-down view, and used the multi-cut tool to slice it up into pieces that could fit on the print bed. also congrats on the new printer! hope to see a thread soon of these being made!
 

kaween

Member
I like this ! The more people start producing/converting stuff like this and make it available to everyone, the better !
 

AT0MK4

New Member
.
hi you wouldn't happen to have the old pepakura files still would you? I would like to make these and can not find any files to let me do so with papercraft or even unfolded ones :(
hope to hear from you soon thanks :)


No problem! happy to contribute. I did want to at least TRY to put in movable parts (i think i seperated the ammo "cowl" and ammo cylinder from the carbine so they can be functional) but with the promethean weapons with all their moving parts and floaty bits, there was no way i had enough skill to do it properly.



I just dumped them into maya, switched to a top-down view, and used the multi-cut tool to slice it up into pieces that could fit on the print bed. also congrats on the new printer! hope to see a thread soon of these being made!
 

ADarkOne

New Member
Just start 3D printing the Railgun...can't wait to start assembling and painting. I will post pictures as I go along. Thanks for the contribution CPO Mendez
 

CPO mendez

Member
.
hi you wouldn't happen to have the old pepakura files still would you? I would like to make these and can not find any files to let me do so with papercraft or even unfolded ones :(
hope to hear from you soon thanks :)
The .zip has all the files i used, both .obj and .stl, including the whole models. you can import the .obj model into Pepakura. they were all unfolded anyway, so i don't have anything beyond that. good luck!

Just start 3D printing the Railgun...can't wait to start assembling and painting. I will post pictures as I go along. Thanks for the contribution CPO Mendez
Awesome! thank you so much! Printing out the Carbine now! You are amazing!!!!
Can't wait to see pictures!
 

CPO mendez

Member
NEW PROP INCOMING!

i'm pretty proud of this one actually, it's a High-res Brute spiker! found it on a 3D model filedump website and it took every bit of ram to import it into maya and slice it up! enjoy:

BRUTE SPIKER

[DOWNLOAD]
Spiker.png


BUILD GUIDES
Spiker body guide.png
Spiker blades guide.png
 

ADarkOne

New Member
IMG_5592.JPG
First pic of my Halo Rail Gun Print. So far I have 7 of the 16 pieces printed (8th should finish tonight). By my calculations it will take just over 480 hours of print time and 2.2 KG of filament using the print settings I have (I can post these later). I have been using superglue to join the pieces which is actually working a bit too well...they adhere almost to quick to align properly. After that I am using bondo to make the seams go away and some Filler Primer to get rid of all the 3D print surfaces. More to come.
 
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kaween

Member
With props this large, I strongly recommend boolean 2 or 3 spaces out of it to allow rods to be inserted and help both strengthening the prop as making aligning the parts a lot easier.

It's true that at first the superglue seems to be "unbreakable" as it bonds the PLA parts very quick, a bit too quick sometimes. :) However, I've seen and personally experienced far too many PLA printed props fail after a couple of months when they are kept together just by the glue bond on the intersectioned surfaces : most superglues become glass-hard and thus brittle over time, causing the glue seam to fail at even just a minor shock (a drop to the ground, even simply hitting the ground after been have put standing against a wall on a con)

I would dare to suggest, CPO Mendez, you'd look into this when doing larger props. I would making your already great work even better, stronger, and easier to assemble.

With ABS pieces, I would dare doing this using ABS welding as this is a much stronger technique than glueing as it diffuses and melts the intersectioned pieces into each other, but I'd still would prefer a more solid core assembly backbone running through larger props.

Just my 2 cents. :)
 
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ADarkOne

New Member
I agree with kaween. If I was doing this again I would also set up the model so that it had joints that fit together for the individual pieces so you know they are aligned properly. Almost all of the work so far has been fixing those seams.

On the superglue comment from kaween, the only reason im not using something stronger is because I intend on molding and casting it afterwards, so I really don't need that strong of a master.
 

mblackwell1002

Well-Known Member
I agree with kaween. If I was doing this again I would also set up the model so that it had joints that fit together for the individual pieces so you know they are aligned properly. Almost all of the work so far has been fixing those seams.

On the superglue comment from kaween, the only reason im not using something stronger is because I intend on molding and casting it afterwards, so I really don't need that strong of a master.
for molding and casting, I made a much more detailed model, HERE
use it if you'd like.
 

CPO mendez

Member
View attachment 238812 First pic of my Halo Rail Gun Print. So far I have 7 of the 16 pieces printed (8th should finish tonight). By my calculations it will take just over 480 hours of print time and 2.2 KG of filament using the print settings I have (I can post these later). I have been using superglue to join the pieces which is actually working a bit too well...they adhere almost to quick to align properly. After that I am using bondo to make the seams go away and some Filler Primer to get rid of all the 3D print surfaces. More to come.
Man alive! it looks gorgeous! also, a little tip with the superglue: the thing that makes it cure is pressure. so once you lay it down and put the pieces together, if you're real delicate with it, you can line them up properly before pressing down. also, i'm printing with >20% infill to save on time and material, and i reccomend everyone do the same. these props are BIG!

With props this large, I strongly recommend boolean 2 or 3 spaces out of it to allow rods to be inserted and help both strengthening the prop as making aligning the parts a lot easier.

It's true that at first the superglue seems to be "unbreakable" as it bonds the PLA parts very quick, a bit too quick sometimes. :) However, I've seen and personally experienced far too many PLA printed props fail after a couple of months when they are kept together just by the glue bond on the intersectioned surfaces : most superglues become glass-hard and thus brittle over time, causing the glue seam to fail at even just a minor shock (a drop to the ground, even simply hitting the ground after been have put standing against a wall on a con)

I would dare to suggest, CPO Mendez, you'd look into this when doing larger props. I would making your already great work even better, stronger, and easier to assemble.

With ABS pieces, I would dare doing this using ABS welding as this is a much stronger technique than glueing as it diffuses and melts the intersectioned pieces into each other, but I'd still would prefer a more solid core assembly backbone running through larger props.

Just my 2 cents. :)
thanks for the advice. i certainly considered it, but unfortunately my 3D modeling experience begins and ends at the multicut tool used to slice them up. i'll be taking some modeling classes next semester hopefully, so if anyone more talented than me wants to improve on the models, than be my guest!

I agree with kaween. If I was doing this again I would also set up the model so that it had joints that fit together for the individual pieces so you know they are aligned properly. Almost all of the work so far has been fixing those seams.

On the superglue comment from kaween, the only reason im not using something stronger is because I intend on molding and casting it afterwards, so I really don't need that strong of a master.
I had the same idea in mind when i made these. planned on casting them, hanging up the originals, and walking around with some solid resin casts. i might at least TRY the intersectioned joints and see how that goes.
 

kaween

Member
thanks for the advice. i certainly considered it, but unfortunately my 3D modeling experience begins and ends at the multicut tool used to slice them up. i'll be taking some modeling classes next semester hopefully, so if anyone more talented than me wants to improve on the models, than be my guest!
If you're interested in doing this yourself, I can show you how to do it and what software you'd need. It's really pretty easy to do. (already mentioned this on the Carbine print thread)
 

ADarkOne

New Member
I have been testing two alterations to the Rail Gun model. The first is to add a 1/4" hole throughout the entire model (technically two holes one for each side the of the rail gun. This will fit either a 1/4" wooden dowel or 1/4" metal conduit. It will have a bit of extra room then just 1/4" so that It will slide in easily and I will have to find some way to secure it (if needed).

The other change is I have been experimenting with different ways to align the slices of the models. I hunted through the forums but didn't find a lot of good material on this so if someone has some posts to refer to that would be great. The most promising one so far has been a "lego" style set of keys. I have am printing out some variants of this on Monday and I will post the results. If that works out I will probably alter the original model and I can post it if anyone is interested.

Also if anyone thinks it should be more than 1/4" I would love to hear thoughts. I was really trying not to add a ton of weight to it in case I decided to lug the master through a con.
 
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