MOLDAPALOOZA! (Lots of pics!)

[fightstar]

Whoa! Kick ass! thanks for taking the time and showing us some of your progress and work. It's extra work to do this, but it helps everyone.

 

[FinAeros]

Good discussion... ah it takes me back to an earlier time... ;-)
......
The success rate of these molds has been 100% to this point. The helmet brim is fantastic to work with, compared to how I used to have to assemble two seperate cast pieces to make the helmets. I dunno about the bend that FinAeros saw... because these castings are coming out 100% with no errors or warping. All I have to do when they're taken out of the mold is to do some sanding along the seam.

The half-sphere mold keys are rock solid. I've been using that method for for my molds for 10 years now. The holes you see are for assembling the two halves together without needing mold straps or clamps.

The sword hilt is two piece so that I can cast the interior of the handle as well, with the blade mounts and electronic compartments intact.
.....

Like I said, since it's a flat coloured cast and with the angle, lighting, and me being half asleep in the morning, it was probably an optical illusion.

Thanks for answering my questions in such detail. Depending on my work situation I might be able to afford some pieces around the end of the year. College tuition sucks for me.... It breaks down to me spending about $450+ a week for classes when I'm a full time student. If I'm lucky, that's about as much as I make in a 45 hour work week.

To the Vacuum forming inquiries, I've seen that the process doesn't work too well at keeping sharp corners. Other detailing is all dependent on how thick of a sheet of material you use, but fine detailing doesn't show up. The thinner the sheet, the more detail is possible, but the overall structural integrity is lessened. It's also sometimes a challenge to form larger pieces 'cause of the constraints of your heating chamber. It ends up being slightly larger than the mold you cast it from. All of which can lead to most of the "puffy" looking MC armors that you see.

Which, while they're still awesome suits, is why some fans poke fun at them.

 

[Spartan 110]

That all depends on your budget. Do you have a job, or are you living off your allowance? I always make options available for people who can't afford to spend alot, and give away LOTS of information to those who want to do things themselves. I really believe in helping people who are as enthusiastic about this as I am, I'm not at this to make huge profits, I only expect to get back the money I invested.

i would make it myself, but i only live off of allowance. plus i would like to learn how to do it, cuz i wwant to work with cars and fabricate all kinds of cools things. i figured doing this would help me., and so far it is helping. the only thing i need to do now is try it. but i have no cash to do it.

but im sorry Sean if i sounded like your doing it for money, it was my bad seriously. your a good person ;-)

 

[MustangMatt]

OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I wish I could make molds! :hyper:

 

[Redsleighdown]

Wow, very clean moulds and casts, especially for a gir...let's not go there.
Thanks for sharin Sean, incredible stuff! :wowie:

I especially enjoy how you've managed this one:

A 2 piece Helmet brim mold, note that the opening is wide enough to brush resin inside.

 

[Leadingspartan]

wait if those are moulds then whats a recast?

 

[TheBlue]

i think its where he makes another cast of the same mold.


It confuses me.

 

[Leadingspartan]

oh ok thanks theblue
-leadingspartan

 

[TheBlue]

Anytime



-TheBlue






_________________________
Halo Pwnz All
Click Here!!!

 

[Sean Bradley]

Okay.. a little terminology to solve that confusion.

The original object you want to cast is called a Pattern, or Model.

The rubber/resin negative you form over that is called a mold

The copy of the original is called a cast or a pull, because you pull it from the mold.

A re-cast is when you take a cast object and make a new mold of it and cast it a second time.

Hope that helps :mrgreen:

 

[Leadingspartan]

ohh ok thanks what did you use to draw the double visor in the pictures?im gona do that with my pep..

 

[TheBlue]

:agree: I'm gonna try at least

 

[Sigma LS]

Sean's already got you guys covered. ;-)
http://www.mjolnirarmor.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2021

It's stickied above you.


Sean- I was thinking of making a mould of my MK V helm, does "Rondo" (body filler resin mix) make for a good cast to clean up and detail before making another mould? Or would I be better off getting a specific Task resin from smooth-on?

Ah well, just trying to make use of the stuff I already have...

 

[TheBlue]

It's stickied above you.

I knew. But thanks anyway. I meant was I'm going to try to do that, but with different materials.

 

[Sean Bradley]

Sigma,

The Bondo/Resin mixture if best for brushed in molds, it captures detail fantastically, providing that the mold is good. It tools very nicely too, sands and files beautifully, provided you don't hit any air bubbles.

I've never had the pleasure of using Smooth-On producxts, although I hear they have some fantastic stuff. I'll be ordering from them soon.

 

[optimusaint]

man i cant wait to get those raw pieces from you Sean.

 

[Spartan 110]

so this bondo and resin mixture, did you make it or did you buy it some where?

 

[link4044]

you have to make it....its nickname is "mud"

 

[Sigma LS]

Thanks Sean (and Link). One other question. Do you use the cream or liquid hardner for the mixture?

 

[link4044]

you use both the cream, hardner and fiberglass resin with the hardner also