Monster Hunter World: Odogaron armour build

PaiganBoi

Sr Member
Today is about spikes on the arm guard.
Started out by laminating 4 pieces of 6mm foam, traced shape and then cut out.
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Then carved into a decent shape.
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Next was to take my rotary tool and start sanding it smooth.
After that was heat sealing. Bonus with the heat was it shrank any fuzzy stuff and left nice texture.
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Then I added some 2mm foam for detail. I still have to give the spikes some living with a wood burner for more detailing.
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PaiganBoi

Sr Member
Update:
Started on the Coil/belt thingy. Most of it is done. Just nned to make the hip plates.
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If you haven't noticed. I used some of the trim of the puzzle floor mats. Figured I could save some foam this way. I also added some detail to the shoulder by burning some lines in.
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The shoulder with all the white is a covered up mistake. I wasn't happy with some of the lines that I burned in so I filled it back with foam putty.
After that I taped everything onto my dummy (which is beginning to fall apart) to see how things are shaping up.
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PaiganBoi

Sr Member
So, I wasn't happy with the length of the neck guards. I cut off about an inch, rounded the corners and slapped on some 2mm craft foam detailing.
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I pretty happy with the way it looks now.
Then I started on the plates for the Coil. There are two hip and then a butt plate. Luckily they are relatively the same shape. i have a lot of cutting to do...18 parts to cut out.
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The butt plate parts are done I just need to glue them all together.
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As for the hips, I will have a different bevel and will add extra cuts to alter the shape.
 

PaiganBoi

Sr Member
Man I wish I had your foam skills. Keep it up!
You are too kind good sir. I still consider myself a beginner and feel that I need to grow more in skill and technique. With the equipment that I do have at my disposal I am always trying to find ways to get some really good results.
Once the armour part of the build is done I want to experiment on different techniques to give texture to foam via dremel, wood burner or other means.
For example I have watched a couple of tuts on using crumpled up aluminum foil and pressing it into heated up foam to simulate a leather hide look.
 

Dirtdives

RXO & Keeper of Con Lists
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
You are too kind good sir. I still consider myself a beginner and feel that I need to grow more in skill and technique.

The fact that you think you are a beginner is only proof that you don't recognize your own skills.....so take it from an outside perspective......AMAZING!!!!! Growing and technique is apparent in your work, and that is something that will be constantly improving but don't sell yourself short.......pun intended.
 
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xXDashIVXx

Well-Known Member
The fact that you think you are a beginner is only proof that you don't recognize your own skills.....so take it from an outside perspective......AMAZING!!!!! Growing and technique is apparent in your work, and that is something that will be constantly improving but don't sell yourself short.......pun intended.
Fangs, can we add a section next to the name and age of your profile that includes hights? :D
 

PaiganBoi

Sr Member
Shins are assembled. Just like with every other part I have made, some after assembly tweeking is needed. :cautious::cautious::cautious:
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Overall they are a little long by maybe an inch. They should come up under my knee cap. At the moment they are covering my knee.
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The knee plate was already cut down. I had them measure at 5 inches but, that was too long. 4 inches is much better.i have to recut the bevel. The angle they are sitting at know just does not look right.
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After the adjustments are made will burn in some details.
 
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PaiganBoi

Sr Member
Okay... So I bought some 10mm thick rope.
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The plan was to braid the 10mm and use it for the neck guards... Turns out 10mm is way thicker than I need. So now I have to settle for one strand to use.
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For comparison here's a side by side of what it's supposed to look like.
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The question is does anyone know what I could use to tie up or crimp the ends with so I could unravel the ends to have to tassels at the tips?

Oh here's a shot of the armour so far...
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TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
You could always sew the strands together at the section you want the fray to stop at by doing a few loops around the outside and then sewing through the strands to tie everything off. If you can find an off-white thread that matches the rope fibers that'd be awesome and almost invisible.
 

Dirtdives

RXO & Keeper of Con Lists
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Does the tassel fraying start after the rope leaves the hole or before? If before the hole, then you could knot the rope and then fray it. If after, then I agree w/ TurboCharizard. Stitch the rope and then fray. Also, I recommend hot glue on the inside part to hold the rope in place. I had an issue w/ something similar on my Samurai build. The rope kept moving around when I put it on and took it off.....
 

PaiganBoi

Sr Member
The tassels start after the whole. So I will be trying the stitches. At this point nothing is glued down. The parts still have to be painted. I might no glue them down, the hole that I have are pretty small and the way it's weaved in and out, it does not allow for much movement.
 
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