Newbie Armor Build P2.

Hibiki

Member
This is the second part of my newbie armor build.
At long last, I've been able to take a break from the cycle of full-time college and full-time 40-hour work weeks. Thanks to getting covid I got a week off. As soon as I started feeling better I finally completed my chest armor. The remaining piece of armor needed to complete after this are the boots, shoulders, and then I have to build one more shin piece since the last one was taken and destroyed by a little piece of **** known as my brother's friend smh. I know nobody really cares but updating and keeping track of progress makes me feel like I'm accomplishing something and keeps me motivated. :)
 

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PlanetAlexander

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
You're really good at nailing that overall geometry! May I ask though, how often do you sharpen/replace your knife? A sharp blade makes all the difference when cutting foam, and can give you some really crisp edges that will reduce the need for clean up alter.
 

Hibiki

Member
You're really good at nailing that overall geometry! May I ask though, how often do you sharpen/replace your knife? A sharp blade makes all the difference when cutting foam, and can give you some really crisp edges that will reduce the need for clean up alter.
First of all thanks :0. For cutting pieces, especially large ones I use a scroll saw which is why they look a little rough on the open edges. I will later go back and dremel all of that uneven cut off the pieces. When I do smaller pieces I sharpen my knife every around 15 or so cuts. One day when I have more time I'd love to make an armor set just using blades because they do leave a better crisp result.
 

PlanetAlexander

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
Ah, I know exactly what you mean. I started using a scroll saw for cutting foam but found that I couldn't control it as well as I wanted without some sort of guide, especially for straight lines. So I switched back to hand cutting foam and using the scroll saw for cutting stacked foam, or for other materials. I think a higher TPI blade and faster speed will help produce cleaner cuts (though it has been a while since I've used it on foam).
 

Hibiki

Member
Ah, I know exactly what you mean. I started using a scroll saw for cutting foam but found that I couldn't control it as well as I wanted without some sort of guide, especially for straight lines. So I switched back to hand cutting foam and using the scroll saw for cutting stacked foam, or for other materials. I think a higher TPI blade and faster speed will help produce cleaner cuts (though it has been a while since I've used it on foam).
Usually, I keep the speed at medium-high. If it goes too high it causes too much shaking and then the cut and control are awful. I definitely do like the clean and crisp cuts of hand cutting so I'll definitely go back to it at some point. At this point though, with the time I'm working with, the scroll saw gets things done a lot quicker for me.
 

admiral4ever

Jr Member
ok so heres a little quirky detail about fusing prints, usually you sand and paint afterwards. If you try to fuse it now, it'll disrupt the paint-job. you can always do it again, but for the seams i'd try using a soldering iron or some sort of bonding agent. Like bondo putty.
Spectacular prints by the way. You got this!
 

Hibiki

Member
ok so heres a little quirky detail about fusing prints, usually you sand and paint afterwards. If you try to fuse it now, it'll disrupt the paint-job. you can always do it again, but for the seams i'd try using a soldering iron or some sort of bonding agent. Like bondo putty.
Spectacular prints by the way. You got this!
Ah yeah thanks. This is my first 3D printed piece that I've worked with that I've had to assemble so I was kind of going in blind. Thanks for the tips I appreciate it.
 

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