Newish of sorts. Why im here of course

Status
Not open for further replies.

shroom

New Member
So. I've been reading around constantly. Just all at once kinda stumbled onto this site, and boy amd i ever intrigued. I'm planning on doing my own pep armor. I read up on almost as many tutorials i could, even ones that would concern my questions.

I have a couple questions of course. I'm lost on the fiberglass part? I know you resin your armor usually first, let it harden, then you fiberglass. But do you do these steps to the inside AND outside of the armor?

And also, how much abuse can a fiberglassed pepakura suit handle? o_O

I mean im not trying to go paintballing or re-enact any battles with this thing, but if I actually make my armor, I don't wanna have to tiptoe in it, walking as consciously as i can.

Btw, great site guys! Love it here ;)
 
Fiberglass is tough stuff. I mean, they repair the bodies of cars with it...

And usually you only want to glass the inside, so as not to lose the detail on the outside of the Pep piece. (Assuming you're doing the HD pieces.)

Thanks for reading around before posting. And welcome to the site!
 
Glass the inside, but only resin the outside. One layer can take a couple of hits but thats it. Several layers could stand up to alot more.

Best of luck!
 
Welcome to the site :D

like Gokuss said, more layers (of the fiber glass cloth) on the INSIDE wil make it alot stronger, one or two layers are enough though for an armor, you can add more if you like, will cost you more though. goodluck on your soon to be awsome armor :D
 
Ok, so no glassing the outside, just resin. Well, will that make the outside any bit fragile?

I think I'll do 3 layers, just to be safe. When you glass it though, do you do it in small cut pieces, so it can curve and form better, or do you cut one large sheet and lay it in their?

And also, this will be my first attempt at armor, but I plan on taking my time, not rushing, reading up on it, and asking for help. I'll try the HD first. Go big or go home right?

Anyways, two last questions. Will this armor look relatively close to the actual armor in the game? (looking at some of the pics, the armor just looks....funny to me. Some look great though too.

And also, I read the rescaling math equation thing, but if Im doing the HD files, is it still the same???? Also, If i do full HD armor, will all the file be done by one person? (say flying squirrel does some HD's, does he do a full suit of them though? I guess im wondering cuz the resizing issues, and if only some are particular to one designer, like FS)

Thanks for the welcome :)
 
shroom said:
Ok, so no glassing the outside, just resin. Well, will that make the outside any bit fragile?
Just don't go throwing it around, and you should be fine, heh.

shroom said:
I think I'll do 3 layers, just to be safe. When you glass it though, do you do it in small cut pieces, so it can curve and form better, or do you cut one large sheet and lay it in their?
Yeah, I think it's actually easier to cut up the fiberglass cloth into smaller pieces and lay them in there than trying to work with one big one. whatever works for you though.

shroom said:
Anyways, two last questions. Will this armor look relatively close to the actual armor in the game? (looking at some of the pics, the armor just looks....funny to me. Some look great though too.
I would hope it does. Most of the pep files here now are done based off the in-game models. The detailing stage though, that's all up to you.

shroom said:
And also, I read the rescaling math equation thing, but if Im doing the HD files, is it still the same???? Also, If i do full HD armor, will all the file be done by one person? (say flying squirrel does some HD's, does he do a full suit of them though? I guess im wondering cuz the resizing issues, and if only some are particular to one designer, like FS)
The scaling is kind of up in the air. Each modeler has their own method (kind of) but what I recommend is going with Robogenisis' method. With his pieces, you just apply your height (in inches) into the "Scale" and it will give you a piece sized pretty dang perfectly. But the only way to make sure is to do the size-testers (or lox-def models) first. If the model isn't by Robo, (like the FS torso and helmet) what I do is scale the corresponding Robo model to what it would be, copy the "Assembled Height," and apply that to whatever other artist's model I'm doing.

As for the full suit done by one modeler, I don't know. I don't think it matters, because like I said before, they use the in-game model as a base, and use in-game references to add the detail. But scaling them like I told you above should eliminate the scaling issue. (But make size testers to be sure!)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i think fiberglassing isnt the hardest part. Construction on the piece is the hardest, and you said you want pep armor.

im glad you read all the stickies, probably including mainly Frizzlefry's and mine. Those two are the best resource on the interwebs for your pep armor. That and Crackhead's video tuts.


i wish you luck on your armor, and pep questions can go to me, i have knowledge on the program and how to build complex models (not to brag :rolleyes )
 
Flawed said:
I've really been wondering something myself. Are you able to sit in the armor or not?
You should be able to, I can sit quite comfortably in mine... in fact I was able to climb up into and sit in the Warthog while wearing my armor :)
th_P4200039.jpg


Welcome Shroom, looks like the others have handled the questions already... I'll just echo what Nicktendo said and say that pep pieces can look as good as the stuff you see in-game as long as you're willing to put in the time to make them that way :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nicktendo said:
Just don't go throwing it around, and you should be fine, heh.
Yeah, I think it's actually easier to cut up the fiberglass cloth into smaller pieces and lay them in there than trying to work with one big one. whatever works for you though.
I would hope it does. Most of the pep files here now are done based off the in-game models. The detailing stage though, that's all up to you.
The scaling is kind of up in the air. Each modeler has their own method (kind of) but what I recommend is going with Robogenisis' method. With his pieces, you just apply your height (in inches) into the "Scale" and it will give you a piece sized pretty dang perfectlyyou just apply your height (in inches) into the "Scale" and it will give you a piece sized pretty dang perfectly. But the only way to make sure is to do the size-testers (or lox-def models) first. If the model isn't by Robo, (like the FS torso and helmet) what I do is scale the corresponding Robo model to what it would be, copy the "Assembled Height," and apply that to whatever other artist's model I'm doing.

As for the full suit done by one modeler, I don't know. I don't think it matters, because like I said before, they use the in-game model as a base, and use in-game references to add the detail. But scaling them like I told you above should eliminate the scaling issue. (But make size testers to be sure!)


First, are robogenisis' models HD? (i want my armor to look as great as possible)
And can I only use the "you just apply your height (in inches) into the "Scale" and it will give you a piece sized pretty dang perfectly" with only his models?

Also, whats a lox-def model? Do I just make a prototype model, and would i be putting the same amount of work into that model compare to a NON lox-def model?



And rvb4life, I read you tut and frizzlefry's tut's the first day i came upon this site. VERY helpful ;). I might take you up on that offer btw, you know, sending my questions to you. lol
 
Last edited by a moderator:
shroom said:
First, are robogenisis' models HD? (i want my armor to look as great as possible)
He has a "Basic" pack, which are just the straight game models. "Low Definition" or "low-def". (Sorry, "lox-def" was a typo. :p )

shroom said:
And can I only use the "you just apply your height (in inches) into the "Scale" and it will give you a piece sized pretty dang perfectly" with only his models?
That's what I was trying to explain. Yeah, his scaling method technically only works for his models, but let's say you're trying to make FS' HD torso, but you don't know how to scale it. What I did, is I went into Robo's Basic MkVI Pack (which are much lower definition and quicker to build than HD pieces) and opened the file for the torso. I scaled that torso, by entering my height in inches into the scale, and by doing that it gives me the "Assembled height." (How big the piece will be when it's done.) Now that I know that, I just go into FS' HD torso file, and enter the "Assembled height" into that one, assuring it will be the same size as the Robo torso would have been if I had built that one. Ya follow?


shroom said:
Also, whats a lox-def model? Do I just make a prototype model, and would i be putting the same amount of work into that model compare to a NON lox-def model?
Sorry again for that typo. This stuff can be confusing enough without me adding to the trouble... But as I mentioned, a low-def model is one with less detail, and is usually a much quicker and easier build. You just make that one first to make sure the scale is good. Many of them are the non-modified game models, or sometimes, there's even less detailed ones than that floating around. (I think there is a torso tester and a helmet tester in FS' thread, since even the in-game model of those two are not very low-def.)

I hope that all makes sense...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nicktendo said:
He has a "Basic" pack, which are just the straight game models. "Low Definition" or "low-def". (Sorry, "lox-def" was a typo. :p )
That's what I was trying to explain. Yeah, his scaling method technically only works for his models, but let's say you're trying to make FS' HD torso, but you don't know how to scale it. What I did, is I went into Robo's Basic MkVI Pack (which are much lower definition and quicker to build than HD pieces) and opened the file for the torso. I scaled that torso, by entering my height in inches into the scale, and by doing that it gives me the "Assembled height." (How big the piece will be when it's done.) Now that I know that, I just go into FS' HD torso file, and enter the "Assembled height" into that one, assuring it will be the same size as the Robo torso would have been if I had built that one. Ya follow?


Ok, so the assembled height.....works with all models? Or just somehow, luckily correlates only between FS and robos models? (Sorry for all the questions. These are to specific for stickies, and I just wanna start out right )

And when you fold the papercraft together, glued and all and what not, say with the helmet, is it just a hollow, thin shell? Or does the paper have....I guess like rigdes where its folded and all? Or is it each piece glued flat on the other?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
shroom said:
Ok, so the assembled height.....works with all models? Or just somehow, luckily correlates only between FS and robos models? (Sorry for all the questions. These are to specific for stickies, and I just wanna start out right )

And when you fold the papercraft together, glued and all and what not, say with the helmet, is it just a hollow, thin shell? Or does the paper have....I guess like rigdes where its folded and all? Or is it each piece glued flat on the other?
The assembled height is just that. It's the size that the piece will be once it's completed. So basically, my personal method of scaling (or at least getting me close to a good scale) is to use Robo's models (because he has a scaling method built into his) to find the assembled height. Then I can apply that height to whatever other model I want to build. (Assuming it wasn't made my Robo.)

As for your questions about the actual craft, you should read through the stickies in the pepakura section. (Actually, read through the all the stickies in all the sections. ;) ) It'll cut down severely on the number of questions you have to ask. You can start with these:

http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3906

http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1648

http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9892

And as for an example of completed work, you could click the link to my build thread in my sig. My pep helm is right at the top of the first post.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So, i don't actually have to print out Robo's models, if i just want to get the assembled height? And I can calculate the scale I need using his models right? then find the assembled height in pepakura designer program, then open a FS HD file, pop in the assembled height, and print away?

And I looked and tried to find the question about folding I asked in the stickies, to no avail. Any help please? I tried looking through your pics and other but I couldn't really decide myself what it was like.

Again, sorry for all the questions. Im just anxious to start on this, although I don't want to rush the actual building process. (Already bought the cardstock tonight, 110lb to be exact.
 
shroom said:
So, i don't actually have to print out Robo's models, if i just want to get the assembled height? And I can calculate the scale I need using his models right? then find the assembled height in pepakura designer program, then open a FS HD file, pop in the assembled height, and print away?
You could but even with that method of figuring out the scale and copying the height, it doesn't always give you the perfect scale (it might be a little too big or a little too small) I have found that using that method is about as close as you can get yet far from prefect. I would suggest that you use that method and print out the tester first, just to make sure that you have the correct scale. Hope that helps.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So, WW, your saying that that method isn't perfect, but the closest thing their is to being perfect? lol

And I think I might start on it tonight. Just on the HD handplates. For fun.

Btw, when i do the robo model> rescale to me>assembled height>FS model with assembled height> method of rescaling, Im going to add about 3-4 inches extra, for padding, and just to be safe. I'd rather have a little larger, than too tight ;)


EDITE: Btw, nice work on your model WW. Is that How you scaled your files on your suit?

"I see you managed to figure out where you'll be cutting the torso in half; perfect placement of the separation line btw"

and whats that mean? I read that the other day and still am lost on what he's talking about.... o_O
 
shroom said:
Btw, nice work on your model WW.
Thanks

shroom said:
Is that How you scaled your files on your suit?
Well on the helmet I kinda guessed and it happened to turn out right (this was before I knew of Robo's method), but on the other peices I did use that method, but like I said I would use the testers because I had to tweak the scale a little, even after I used the method, to get it perfect.

shroom said:
and whats that mean? I read that the other day and still am lost on what he's talking about.... o_O
whats, what referring too?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
On that bottom quote in my last post, its from your thread. About cutting the torso or something. Idk, it lost me. lol. ?

I kinda just wanna shoot for the stars and hope his method works. And just start right away on my armor. I know, sad. But Im f'ing eager to get on it. And I'll be happy with a few gave-or-taken inches. lol
 
I know how you feel, I wanted to dive right in too. But even though it isn't necessarily the funniest thing to do (building the testers) it will save you alot of time and effort down the road if for some reason the scale doen't turn out right. But you van do what ever you want, and I wish you good luck.
 
Well.....about how long do the testers take to make? For a nooblet?

And is their a tester for each HD model?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top