FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys!
ODST Build 1: The Journey Begins
- Thread starter FalseShepherd
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FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately, I have arrived at my first major issue. The chest plate is too big. I was hoping to ignore it and pretend like it would work, but just holding it in place I cannot really move my arms across my chest. Its about 16 inches from edge to edge and i think it needs to be more around 12-13. If anyone needs a chest plate (and potentially abs pieces of the same scale) let me know. Its partially bondo'd. I might finish the bondo process or I might not on this one. If someone is interested in buying it I can finish the bondo for an additional fee. Oh well moving on.
Dirtdives2424
Master Member
- Member DIN
- S2424
Dude....I know how you feel. Really. It's a learning experience, and a pain, when something gets scaled wrong. Not to worry though, your quality of work, despite the setback, is fantastic.
FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
Thanks, man. Honestly it's a bit demoralizing but it's helpful to hear that from an experienced pro like yourself.
Dirtdives2424
Master Member
- Member DIN
- S2424
Pro?...........Only if you are referring to my ability to miss size things spectacularly. In that sense, yes I'm a pro. I hold the record of failed attempts on a single piece of my build, the helmet......8 times.
FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
Pro in that your armor looks great and you have been here more than a few months. And also yes in making sizing mistakes - if you made mistakes and pushed through then I shall too! Tho hopefully I won't need 8 tries for the chest piece it should be a like a simple correction... chest plate is much simpler than that helmet u gots.
Dirtdives2424
Master Member
- Member DIN
- S2424
i'm glad to inspire you to continue despite mistakes
FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
Ok. Its been a while. Honestly, got pretty demoralized and burned out when the chest piece was bad. I have shifted my attention to other areas of the armor for the past few weeks. Working on the "neck and back" piece, I think I am going to make most of it out of fabric. This cloth layer doesn't really show, and should be more comfortable as a fabric anyway. No pics of that right now, but rest assured some will be coming.
Also, I bondo'd, sanded, spot filled, and primed one of the shoulder pieces and bondo'd the second set of shoulder pieces. Those pieces came along so nicely, that I really didn't need much bondo-ing. I did also put the first layer of bondo on the last shoulder piece (top piece on left) I just didn't take another picture.
Also one of our window AC units stopped working so I had to rip that apart and thoroughly clean/fix it. That took a real long time.
The other thing that took up a lot of the past 2 weeks is a weird little idea I had. Its a little rough, but here's my idea:
For the helmet, instead of forming foam or sewing pads or whatever most people do to make it fit on your head better, I ripped the insert out of an old skating helmet. I then hatched a plan to secure it inside the pep helmet so that it sits straight and grips my head well. First, I tried to shave the insert to fit the shape of the helmet. I decided to ditch this plan due to having to remove so much of the insert that it wasn't going to stay together very well. Then, I decided to glue it in place and fill the excess space. But, how to do so effectively and easily? After searching and researching and thinking for (probably not) long enough, I landed on this weird process. I used general purpose JB weld and expanding insulating foam to secure the insert into the helmet. NOTE: I specifically looked for spray foam that bragged about not applying pressure to the walls of the gap it was filling. That outward pressure can warp and cause problems that I, obviously, wanted to avoid. So, I was able to find this low pressure spray foam that is advertised as for windows and skylights and whatnot that applies basically no pressure to the outside walls of whatever its filling. The specific brand I used is called "Great Stuff". Below are some pics of this process.
I do not know how well it worked as JB Weld requires 24 hours to cure fully and the spray foam needed 8. I did this last night so, when I get home from work tonight I will check and see if it worked or if I just destroyed my helmet. STAY TUNED!
Also, I bondo'd, sanded, spot filled, and primed one of the shoulder pieces and bondo'd the second set of shoulder pieces. Those pieces came along so nicely, that I really didn't need much bondo-ing. I did also put the first layer of bondo on the last shoulder piece (top piece on left) I just didn't take another picture.
Also one of our window AC units stopped working so I had to rip that apart and thoroughly clean/fix it. That took a real long time.
The other thing that took up a lot of the past 2 weeks is a weird little idea I had. Its a little rough, but here's my idea:
For the helmet, instead of forming foam or sewing pads or whatever most people do to make it fit on your head better, I ripped the insert out of an old skating helmet. I then hatched a plan to secure it inside the pep helmet so that it sits straight and grips my head well. First, I tried to shave the insert to fit the shape of the helmet. I decided to ditch this plan due to having to remove so much of the insert that it wasn't going to stay together very well. Then, I decided to glue it in place and fill the excess space. But, how to do so effectively and easily? After searching and researching and thinking for (probably not) long enough, I landed on this weird process. I used general purpose JB weld and expanding insulating foam to secure the insert into the helmet. NOTE: I specifically looked for spray foam that bragged about not applying pressure to the walls of the gap it was filling. That outward pressure can warp and cause problems that I, obviously, wanted to avoid. So, I was able to find this low pressure spray foam that is advertised as for windows and skylights and whatnot that applies basically no pressure to the outside walls of whatever its filling. The specific brand I used is called "Great Stuff". Below are some pics of this process.
I do not know how well it worked as JB Weld requires 24 hours to cure fully and the spray foam needed 8. I did this last night so, when I get home from work tonight I will check and see if it worked or if I just destroyed my helmet. STAY TUNED!
FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Don't hold your breath- It's not getting done particularly quickly.
FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
Forgot to post last night but it did work!
It fits on my head. The insert got a little twisted so it's not perfect, but it's definitely wearable and good enough. Helmet might be a smidge large but eh whatever. Just gives me more room for fans and electronics and stuff.
It fits on my head. The insert got a little twisted so it's not perfect, but it's definitely wearable and good enough. Helmet might be a smidge large but eh whatever. Just gives me more room for fans and electronics and stuff.
FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
Life has been very busy these past two weeks. All in all, some things are going very well, others were stressful, but seem to be getting better. I have not made a ton of progress and have little to show, but I did learn something last week that I feel should be shared.
There is an incorrect way to shake your bottle of Mod Podge. Twice now, I have gone to shake my Mod Podge and experienced a Mod Podge explosion. If you just hold the bottle without using some method of securing the lid, there is a 30% chance of explosion. This most recent time, I even checked that the lid was screwed on tightly - it still exploded.
Here are some examples of safe ways to shake a bottle of Mod Podge:
Fortunately, Mod Podge cleans up easily and nothing got permanently damaged. Mod Podge has been a great glue for the cardstock stage of the build for me and I still recommend it. Just DONT TRUST THE LID.
Thank you for coming to my TED talk.
There is an incorrect way to shake your bottle of Mod Podge. Twice now, I have gone to shake my Mod Podge and experienced a Mod Podge explosion. If you just hold the bottle without using some method of securing the lid, there is a 30% chance of explosion. This most recent time, I even checked that the lid was screwed on tightly - it still exploded.
Here are some examples of safe ways to shake a bottle of Mod Podge:
Fortunately, Mod Podge cleans up easily and nothing got permanently damaged. Mod Podge has been a great glue for the cardstock stage of the build for me and I still recommend it. Just DONT TRUST THE LID.
Thank you for coming to my TED talk.
FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
Ok. So, update. I have basically been working on the helmet for the past week or so. Bondo, sanding, more Bondo, more sanding. I am pretty sure I am going to be sanding Bondo for the rest of my life. SO MUCH SANDING!
Anyways, progress pic.
Need to do some more sanding. And probably more bondo, and probably more sanding. ALso I cut out and tinted my visor, just waiting for it to set and hopefully I will figure out how to assemble it and get it ready to be attached. Might work, might not... we will see. I also spent like two days doing yard work and landscaping in the front yard. Hopefully, I can finish up the helmet next week. We will see.
Also, I have been half-ass-ed-ly planning my next project. I am going to do a Warden from For Honor. Started thinking about the sword, and I have a good plan... maybe.... we will see. I intend to do a lot of my own modeling for this project so it will be a slow one because I do not know how to do 3D modeling.
Anyways, progress pic.
Need to do some more sanding. And probably more bondo, and probably more sanding. ALso I cut out and tinted my visor, just waiting for it to set and hopefully I will figure out how to assemble it and get it ready to be attached. Might work, might not... we will see. I also spent like two days doing yard work and landscaping in the front yard. Hopefully, I can finish up the helmet next week. We will see.
Also, I have been half-ass-ed-ly planning my next project. I am going to do a Warden from For Honor. Started thinking about the sword, and I have a good plan... maybe.... we will see. I intend to do a lot of my own modeling for this project so it will be a slow one because I do not know how to do 3D modeling.
Dirtdives2424
Master Member
- Member DIN
- S2424
Looks great....Have you ever thought about getting a power sander? Makes things a lot easier.
FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
I have one. And a multitool with sander attachments but i only use them for the rough grit sanding. I don't feel like I have as much control with the tools. Makes me uncomfortable if I use them too much.
Dirtdives2424
Master Member
- Member DIN
- S2424
Sometimes, ya got to step out of your comfort zone..........I had the same feelings when I was working on mine.....thinking that I was going to sand away so much that I would put a hole in it......Just try a bit at a time and get a feel for it. It will take hours off your build. Good luck and again, great job.
EVAkura
Well-Known Member
Just caught up with this build 
Yes, Pepakura is a long and tedious task indeed! Your patience (and testing, which I highly commend) is fantastic. I understand the discouragement you feel from time to time, especially when dealing with a "failure". None of us get it right the first time, that is for sure!! Keep your head up, you are doing great!!
Yes, Pepakura is a long and tedious task indeed! Your patience (and testing, which I highly commend) is fantastic. I understand the discouragement you feel from time to time, especially when dealing with a "failure". None of us get it right the first time, that is for sure!! Keep your head up, you are doing great!!
EVAkura
Well-Known Member
Also, if your project is completely sealed (ie: coated in resin, thus waterproof), I highly recommend wet sanding when possible!
FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Also yes I have heard of wet sanding but have no idea what it means. Can you explain it a bit for me?
Also, EVAkura, I'm super jealous of you and your work. Very impressive.
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