Pepakura Weapon-making Issues

SchizophrenicMC

Well-Known Member
So, I've noticed there are a lot of pepakura files for the various weapons of Halo. I've even tried my hand at making some of them. And this is where I've run into trouble.

First off, whenever I try, the piece ends up warped beyond belief. (I've seen plenty of pictures of other people with the same issue)

Second, while I've seen hardened pepakura weapon props, I've never extrapolated how people go about it.

So, to those of you who have succeeded, could you post your tips and advice as to how to make pepakura weapons? I'd much appreciate it, and I'm sure others would, too.
 

wook111

Jr Member
i am wondering he same things as well i would also benefit from the same things... what i have pepped is one of the aassault rilfes.... and i have left a large opening... maybe for rondo? i dont know but hopefully i jan just hit the outsied with everything and not worry about the inside :p
 

Carpathia

Sr Member
Wook111, you're on the right track. To harden a weapon, a lot of people either leave an opening or make an opening after the initial exterior resin phase. The weapon is then filled/slushed with the hardener of choice. For me, it's rondo. It's cheap, easy to make, cures quickly and makes for a sturdy weapon. The opening can then be closed, most likely by bondoing over it.

As far as your pep warping during construction, I'm not sure how to help with that other than stay patient through the entire build and take your time, don't rush. I've run into the warping problem as well, and I've scrapped more than a few weapon attempts.
One suggestion I can offer is backing the inside of the larger parts of the weapon with a rigid material, like foam core or cardboard. This will help keep the large parts straight. Other than that, patience.
 

Harris007

Jr Member
Well what i do is that i complete part of the weapon and fiberglass the inside. Once i fiberglass that part i start another portion and begin to fiberglass that too. in the end, i will have 2-3 pieces which go together like a puzzle. and then its just a matter of bondoing to fix up warpage.
 

dung0beetle

Well-Known Member
Don't print the flaps, then transfer the templates to plastic (sintra) for sale signs(not the corrugated ones) or some similar media, then pep like normal. If you still need to strengthen the inside, you can use expanding foam and it won't deform the shape as much as cardstock. You should reinforce corners as you build to help keep it from deforming (popsicle sticks FTW!). This also gives a great gluing surface for tricky spots. Check your junk drawer for things to use as buttons, switches, etc. and scavenge triggers from toy guns. You can also build around airsoft guns if you can find one that is a reasonable fit for the gun you are pepping.
 

SchizophrenicMC

Well-Known Member
Wow, thanks, guys.

Carpathia: I'm normally really good about preventing papercraft from warping (I've been at the art of papercraft for a few years, now) but these weapons just don't agree with me. I'll try your suggestion about foam core or cardboard.

Harris: I've thought of doing that, as well, but didn't know how I'd go about joining everything stably.

DungBeetle: If I can't get it to work via Carpathia's method, I'll definitely take your method for a spin. And, of course, the junk drawer is necessary. I LOVE GREEBLE!

Phoenix: I've seen people ruin their pepped weapons with Great Stuff, but I don't think they resined their parts before foaming. That's why I brought that up.
 

amancue

Member
I've used greatstuff on the inside of weapons before its tricky, to keep it from overinflating your object, what I've come upon recently though thats just quite awesome if not entirely cheap, Smooth-On's Flex-IT foaming Plastics, for this it works just like Greatstuff except it doesnt press on the outsides. and with a little cafeful use you dont even need to waterproof the outside of the pep 1st, just make sure to tape up any holes and gaps before slushing or you'll make a mess. then you just soak the piece in water for a bit and watch the paper fall off and you have your prop or armor piece, and the stuff is easier to sand then rondo/bondo/jelly
or if you dont want to remove the paper then you can just then coat it w/ your choice of sealants, and smooth it out the normal ways. and you can either fill it solid or slush it, Foam-IT 10 will expand 10times its volume so 2oz of foam (1oz part Blue 1oz part Yellow) will yeild 10oz of foamed hardened plastic. then just take your pep dimensions convert that volume into fluid ounces and you'll know how many ounces it'll take to fill your piece. use small batches it has a pot life of about 90seconds unless you use 10 Slow which is about 3 1/2 mins. Foam-IT is what I used to harden my Chainsword. over several applications I slushed it around the inside of the chainsword and its solid now. and has a good weight. and w/ a dremel sands sooo easily
 

Swatze

New Member
I just tear up toilet paper and stuff them as I go along and have also poured glue in which soaks the paper and becomes a chunk. You could use that foaming Gorilla wood glue. Also what amancue suggested sounds good.
 
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