Phauxelates's Mk. VI EVA Foam Build [UPDATED: Finished...? NOPE! Now filling the Gaps]

xXDashIVXx

Active Member
I dont know, but I think your stomach is too exposed and the cod peice needs to come up a little more? As for weathering, I think it is always good to go over the top. I like the look of something fresh out of the factory, like a clone trooper, but I think it is better(even though you feel horrified at "ruining" your masterpiece) to weather it down ALOT. That gives it a history, a story, and meaning. It is also wqy more appealing to look at
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this lazt one is from NEMES1S and he did an amazing job on his armor, covered in dirt, damage, and rust. I'm not saying you should do this or go that far, but I think it looks great and ads flare to your builds
 

Phauxelate

Member
Let me just say you guys are doing a fantastic job on giving me advice/things to work on. I appreciate it, and keep it flowing!

I think your stomach is too exposed and the cod peice needs to come up a little more?
You would be correct! I didn't notice it until you pointed it out. While posing for photos being taken, the belt that I attached the codpiece and thighs to slid down a bit without me noticing. In this photo below when I was seeing how the codpiece fit on this older photo (before the first part of weathering I did), is a much better representation of what it should be.

20181215_223304.jpg

Here the belt is about belly button height, but in my most recent photos it's at about waist height (where a belt is normally supposed to be). I'll try to figure out how to keep the belt at belly height. I'm thinking nylon strap attaching to the bottom of the chest piece? I don't know, but I'll think of something. Added to the list!

As for weathering, I think it is always good to go over the top.
I agree with you on that one. I looked at other people's builds as well and I see in their photos the weathering is much more visible. I have planned to add more weathering detail soon. Currently I'm working an a Battle Rifle prop, so after that I'll try to touch up on the paint detail such as dirt, grime, and more visible scratches.
 

Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
Phauxelate it looks like your codpiece is flat and has a hard time fitting around your body, resulting in a flat 'plate'.

While very impressed with your build, I think if you could get the curve in the belt/ cod, you'd be better off.

So I guess for improvement, try curving things?

As for weathering, what I did was: nothing. None. I wore my suit 3-4 times, and then sat down with me trusty ol' silver sharpie and everywhere that was gray/ pink/ yellow got some tender loving care . Took probably 20-30 minutes, but the "damage" looks realistic because it IS real.
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I like your build and enthusiasm, man. Keep it up.
 

Phauxelate

Member
I think if you could get the curve in the belt/ cod, you'd be better off.

So I guess for improvement, try curving things?
Hmmmmm. Well, I could get a heat gun and curve not only the COD, but the shoulders as well. I don't have much other to say other than that. Added it to the list!

I like your build and enthusiasm, man. Keep it up.
Thanks, that means a lot! It also gives me more fuel to keep trucking on through. This is my first build, so your advice and everyone else's can only help me get better at doing what I enjoy and love!
 

Phauxelate

Member
****Small Update****

I've taken what xXDashIVXx said, and started doing the second coat of black wash. The chest, legs, and butt plate are done and the rest is yet to be done. Here's the chest piece:
BURST20190112122434979_COVER.jpg

After this black wash is done, I'll seal it and do a wash of 2 different shades of brown to add more detail and life into it

For this I have a question: If I'm to cover the whole thing in a brown (tan mixed with black) wash, should I stick with the common 1part paint 3 parts water, or increase the amount of water a bit?

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Also, I'm starting to make a Battle Rifle prop as recommended by MajWood. I just got the base right now, but I will continue to work on it. Here's the prop:

BURST20190112123631656_COVER.jpg
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As always, let me know what you guys think!
 

Phauxelate

Member
***Small Update***

I lack someone to help take pictures, so I'll have to suffice with a mirror:

20190113 blackwash_before_after.png


One for the memers as well:
BURST20190113144747710_COVER.png

Second step is to do two more acrylic washes with dark tan and brown.

One more question: Do you guys feel like it could use a couple of brown washes?... Black is much darker than brown/tan so it could just be that I feel like it's going to just give it too much when it really won't.

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Also, as a side note, I dug up an old belt that is way too small for my waist that I had been saving for some reason. Turns out, my midriff is less wide than my waist, so this belt won't slide down! (Meaning the codpiece/midriff armor combo will stay snug where it is)
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Below are images attached for your pleasure.
 

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PaiganBoi

Sr Member
****Small Update****

I've taken what xXDashIVXx said, and started doing the second coat of black wash. The chest, legs, and butt plate are done and the rest is yet to be done. Here's the chest piece:
View attachment 264107

After this black wash is done, I'll seal it and do a wash of 2 different shades of brown to add more detail and life into it

For this I have a question: If I'm to cover the whole thing in a brown (tan mixed with black) wash, should I stick with the common 1part paint 3 parts water, or increase the amount of water a bit?

___________________________
Also, I'm starting to make a Battle Rifle prop as recommended by MajWood. I just got the base right now, but I will continue to work on it. Here's the prop:

View attachment 264108
___________________________
As always, let me know what you guys think!
For you BR did you include dowel(s) or pipe running through it to help it stiff instead of a wet noodle?
As for a brown was my suggestion is not to cover the entire suit like the black wash. Use it to make some spots look dirty... Or dirtier. Apply it to crevices on the boots and shins also hand plates.
 

Phauxelate

Member
For you BR did you include dowel(s) or pipe running through it to help it stiff instead of a wet noodle?
No, but what I've found is that when I glued the three of them together in a layer, is wasn't very flexible. For example, held it lengthwise from the end of it and it seemed pretty sturdy without sag

As for a brown was my suggestion is not to cover the entire suit like the black wash. Use it to make some spots look dirty... Or dirtier. Apply it to crevices on the boots and shins also hand plates.
Yeah, I mentioned the brown paint to a buddy of mine and he mentioned the same thing. What I don't know, is how I'll apply it. I feel like I would want to try and dry brush it on, but use a kind of makeup applicator to get a sort of "powdery/dusty" look to it by dabbing on it. I don't want to have it simply painted on, but look like it was done with an airbrush (which sadly I don't have).
 

Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
If you're trying to recreate dust and dirt, saving is just fine. I think an airbrush is too fine for the nitty gritty boot dirt and residue. Dry brushing with a regular brush or even a big old hose brush will work. Then wipe away the excess with a paper towel or similar device. You'll be golden!
 

xXDashIVXx

Active Member
If you're trying to recreate dust and dirt, saving is just fine. I think an airbrush is too fine for the nitty gritty boot dirt and residue. Dry brushing with a regular brush or even a big old hose brush will work. Then wipe away the excess with a paper towel or similar device. You'll be golden!
Mix in some blended up sand and leaves with the paint (not in the container) if you want that little extra pop.
 

Phauxelate

Member
Ah, I should have been more clear. I'm thinking about adding a slight brown rustic kind of look to it on the edges, so I've bought some burnt sienna acrylic paint. Using this, how should I apply it with a brush to give it an authentic corroded look? What I'm thinking is picking up a cheap-o makeup brush, and just dap it onto the armor vertically so it gives it a lot of little rusty dots. Any other Ideas?
 

xXDashIVXx

Active Member
Ah, I should have been more clear. I'm thinking about adding a slight brown rustic kind of look to it on the edges, so I've bought some burnt sienna acrylic paint. Using this, how should I apply it with a brush to give it an authentic corroded look? What I'm thinking is picking up a cheap-o makeup brush, and just dap it onto the armor vertically so it gives it a lot of little rusty dots. Any other Ideas?
That is exactly how you do it, but try and use many layers of different colors to make it look more realistic. There also paints and metalizers with metal dust in it so you can spray a chemical on it and speed up the rising process, having actual rust on your project
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Ah, I should have been more clear. I'm thinking about adding a slight brown rustic kind of look to it on the edges, so I've bought some burnt sienna acrylic paint. Using this, how should I apply it with a brush to give it an authentic corroded look? What I'm thinking is picking up a cheap-o makeup brush, and just dap it onto the armor vertically so it gives it a lot of little rusty dots. Any other Ideas?
The technique is called stippling and the best way to do it is with a bargain bin chip brush or a super old hard bristle toothbrush. For corrosion having a texture paint isn't a bad idea either, not that MJOLNIR would rust in the same manner as iron and steel that we're used to. If you want to go for a red/brown rust, mix some of that burnt sienna with some PVA glue and some dry, clean grit. I have a bunch of scatter flock and ballast from building miniatures but using sand or sawdust is a good option. Mix in a few oranges and browns afterwards by drybrushing and it'll look pretty rad.

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Remember though to put rust spots in realistic places! Rust likes to form in uncoated areas and places where there is structural stresses on the metal. So you'll see rust around high edges where scuff damage would remove surface coatings and in recesses where welds between plates meet at sharp angles.
 

Phauxelate

Member
The technique is called stippling and the best way to do it is with a bargain bin chip brush or a super old hard bristle toothbrush. For corrosion having a texture paint isn't a bad idea either, not that MJOLNIR would rust in the same manner as iron and steel that we're used to. If you want to go for a red/brown rust, mix some of that burnt sienna with some PVA glue and some dry, clean grit. I have a bunch of scatter flock and ballast from building miniatures but using sand or sawdust is a good option. Mix in a few oranges and browns afterwards by drybrushing and it'll look pretty rad.

View attachment 264381

Remember though to put rust spots in realistic places! Rust likes to form in uncoated areas and places where there is structural stresses on the metal. So you'll see rust around high edges where scuff damage would remove surface coatings and in recesses where welds between plates meet at sharp angles.
Awesome explanation! People have mentioned adding dirt and stuff, but it doesn't feel right painting on stuff from the ground onto something that is my pride and joy. I will definitely be mixing the burnt sienna with PVA glue and some sawdust from workshops around campus because it's easily obtainable.

Also, I don't have a super old bristly brush, and there's no art department on my campus... I've tried to purposely destroy one I've sacrificed by smashing it into the wall, but it's still soft and unbroken. Is there some sort of thing I can do to the brush to make it paint as if it was old? Something like not washing it after using it and allowing the acrylic paint to dry on it?

As a side note, I was been thinking about getting the makeup brush from the local store, but now it seems like that wouldn't be a good idea since the brush will still be soft and spread the paint.
 
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xXDashIVXx

Active Member
Awesome explanation! People have mentioned adding dirt and stuff, but it doesn't feel right painting on stuff from the ground onto something that is my pride and joy. I will definitely be mixing the burnt sienna with PVA glue and some sawdust from workshops around campus because it's easily ontainable.
Are you saying dirt isnt easily ontainable? Its dirt! Who cares?! Sawdust is bad! Dirt is awesome! I'm sure Dirtdives can testify to this!

As for the chip brush, try spray painting it, then separating as many bristles as you can with your hands
 

Phauxelate

Member
Hey, yeah so I found this person who was also doing cosplay stuff on my campus, and he pointed out this one room which is locked behind a keypad. Now, I've asked many people around campus if there was a room like this, but he was the only person who knew...


20190115_170312.jpg


There's a spray painting room! (With the bonus of an airbrush)

This would have been extremely helpful before my whole build was pretty much finished, but oh well




I get to mess with the airbrush :)
.....
.....
.....​
(What are some things you guys know I can do with an airbrush?)
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Hey, yeah so I found this person who was also doing cosplay stuff on my campus, and he pointed out this one room which is locked behind a keypad. Now, I've asked many people around campus if there was a room like this, but he was the only person who knew...


View attachment 264497

There's a spray painting room! (With the bonus of an airbrush)

This would have been extremely helpful before my whole build was pretty much finished, but oh well




I get to mess with the airbrush :)
.....
.....
.....​
(What are some things you guys know I can do with an airbrush?)
Get a big piece of butcher paper, a bottle of el cheapo paint and practice your control with the airbrush. Being able to gauge your distance, angle and airflow to get your desired effect takes a lot of practice.

Do a bunch of dots, lines, blocks and fiddle around with gradients. Just play around on a big surface and get a feel for it.
 

Phauxelate

Member
Here's some updated pictures of my build. It's basically finished, but may improve it further!

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I appreciate the help from all of you. I intend to make a new build from scratch again at some point, and apply everything I have learned.

Cheers!
 

PerniciousDuke

RXO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
I like it so much more!


Remember though to put rust spots in realistic places!
I feel like it has been debated on here before, but I believe the verdict was that Spartan armor doesn't rust. The most that happens is the paint chips and gets dirty.
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
I like it so much more!

I feel like it has been debated on here before, but I believe the verdict was that Spartan armor doesn't rust. The most that happens is the paint chips and gets dirty.
Yep! I'm on team MJOLNIR doesn't rust but will oxidize white if surface coatings are removed and left for a very long time. If people want to make it rusty, might as well follow proper rust formation patterns!
 

xXDashIVXx

Active Member
W
I like it so much more!




I feel like it has been debated on here before, but I believe the verdict was that Spartan armor doesn't rust. The most that happens is the paint chips and gets dirty.
Who cares it looks awesome! Maybe YOU as a spartan painted your armor to make it look rusty so your foes take you for granted and think your armor is poor quality and old/weak.
 
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