RWBY Qrow's Sword Scythe

Discussion in 'Non-Halo Costumes and Props' started by Benton188, Dec 31, 2015.

  1. Termhn

    Termhn 405th Regiment Officer

    This is gonna be sick! (already is, actually :p)
     
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  2. 1derzone

    1derzone New Member

    So I guess I did give you some sort of headstart on other Qrow cosplayers hahahaha
     
  3. Benton188

    Benton188

    Yep lol. I've seen only a few cosplayers so far, and most of them don't have the weapon. Let alone a weapon that can transform.
     
  4. 1derzone

    1derzone New Member

    Seeing this come to life makes me very happy. Good luck with the red edge. I'll try to think of how you could make it work too
     
  5. Benton188

    Benton188

    UPDATE!
    I have this whole week off, so my end goal is to get as much done as possible, maybe even finish it. Although, while drilling holes for the gears, I got a little crazy with the drill and ended up breaking the fan. New fan is on the way, so I'll have to wait for that at least. Here are some more pics:

    12705458_1261673073846520_482504638721355000_n.jpg 12734276_1261673120513182_7404196780839306348_n.jpg 12741974_1261673177179843_900422384082063213_n.jpg 12705379_1261673217179839_4649322503154000497_n.jpg
    Made a little spot to hold the 9V to run the fan. Made the small blades for scythe mode. Who knew they'd make great little daggers lol. Last pictures show how I have to make indents for the nuts to fit into so they don't stop the blade from connecting when it goes into Gun Mode.

    More pics to come soon.
     
  6. Benton188

    Benton188

    UPDATE!!
    Getting really close to being done with this build. I'm still fiddling around with the gears, and I just found out I need to add an extra pin for each position for better support. The weight of the blade is making the single pins strain, and I fear they may even attempt to pull out. Here are some pics:

    12742837_1265146863499141_6061550376364919398_n.jpg 12728891_1265146883499139_6572391477150795644_n.jpg 12744389_1265146910165803_1355851444490240935_n.jpg 12745977_1265146963499131_5873211451000560584_n.jpg
     
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  7. Benton188

    Benton188

    New Update, check the first post :cool
     
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  8. BlazedStarbon

    BlazedStarbon RMO 405th Regiment Officer

    Watching that video is quite informative. Great work on bringing the scythe to life! You better have a costume to complete the look before PAX :cool
     
  9. Benton188

    Benton188

    Gonna order the shirt and cape tomorrow. It's funny, I can build stuff like this easily, but when it comes to needle point I'm the worst lol
     
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  10. freefloater

    freefloater New Member

    Hi! My friend and I are designing a similar scythe. Do you have the dimensions for the blade sections? Thank you!

    G.
     
  11. Benton188

    Benton188

    No problem, here's a pic with the dimensions of the blade:
    Dimensions.jpg
     
  12. freefloater

    freefloater New Member

    Thank you so much! One other thing though =/ Do you know the angle you cut in between the pieces, as well as the length of the diagonals? Thanks again.

    G.
     
  13. Korium9

    Korium9 New Member

    Cool. My dimensions aren't too different from those.
     
  14. Dark Ace

    Dark Ace New Member

    It looks amazing! This will be an awesome cosplay! Cant wait to see it finished.
     
  15. GrimLaw

    GrimLaw New Member

    Each edge is about 2.7-3 inchs lower from its match it seems. In the real thing all the edges are parallel except for the very top edge which is a little more pointed and rounded on the front edge line. you can find the angle of the edge/sections by connecting the two points.So basically, mark how far of a line you need for it to reach that lower point after you decide on a idea width for your blade so you can then find the angle of the edge.
     
  16. eric draven

    eric draven New Member

    That looks awesome. I was trying to do the same thing with lightning's gunblade from final fantasy. Your build inspired me to complete it. I'm sure someone already made one, but I still want to try it.
     
  17. serenko3

    serenko3 405th Regiment Officer

    next for us to figure out a proper neptune rifle, spear, trident
     
  18. Benton188

    Benton188

    Welp, I went ahead and made a second one. MKII. This time, I've ditched the heavy wood and made it out of EVA foam instead. Like before, it can transform into 3 different positions (No Carry Mode this time though) and transforming doesn't take nearly as long or is as tedious. Here are some progress pics and details on the builds. Sorry I'm lacking in pics this time as I was on and off on this project for months.

    15202773_1545731458774012_3505922164248227337_n.jpg 15181370_1544184128928745_5064208029994583575_n.jpg
    Started by using my old sword as a template on the foam. Cut out 3 duplicates for each layer of the blade, and this time included the round part of the body at the end.

    15203120_1544184032262088_7084557014850625136_n.jpg 15241344_1544184105595414_7171412296250460853_n.jpg 15181629_1544183945595430_4448477023817597617_n.jpg
    Just like last time, I cut two of the blades into segments for each part that rotates. At the bottom is a triangle piece that narrows down. I cut those out of the middle section and saved them, as they will act as the "stoppers" for the segments. Next I laid out the pattern on the middle section for each piece that will move internally. On the bottom pieces that have X's, cut those out and remove it entirely from the project. Lastly, I cut rectangle pieces from the top. These serve as the red blades that come down when it's in scythe form.

    15203286_1544183818928776_4096395920048830414_n.jpg 15232241_1544184042262087_760796923916873008_n.jpg
    Next I put the magnets in. I started by putting two magnets in the middle section for each position, blade and scythe. Then I placed one of the cut up segments on top of the middle section and marked where to put the magnet in each segment. Sorry for not having a picture of it, but each segment has 1 magnet that is recessed like the middle section. Magnets are only need on one side of the blade. Then I covered each magnet with a piece of craft foam. This helps so the magnets don't make any physical contact and try to rip themselves out.

    Also not pictured is that the long triangle pieces that were cut out earlier, get sandwiched between the two segment pieces for each section. The segments then get glued to the rest of the middle section, but not on the pattern part that rotates.

    15267971_1544184045595420_7912105210470934130_n.jpg 15178272_1544184158928742_4569323112958777460_n.jpg
    When all assembled, the blade should look and act like this.

    15284867_1545731108774047_7566297819274725574_n.jpg 15267897_1545731138774044_7206592617363941465_n.jpg 15326379_1545730995440725_6605072794668481366_n.jpg 15181409_1545731322107359_5022674596902063347_n.jpg 15230571_1545731375440687_5134499548096229759_n.jpg 15319198_1545731248774033_2052124605531653407_n.jpg
    Next up is the handle. The 3 pieces are 1 1/4", 1", and 3/4" (Water pipe i.e. the red or blue PVC not the standard) Get a 1 1/4" end cap and a 1" coupler. Cut the 1"coupler in half and glue it to the inside of the 1 1/4", then glue the 1" pipe into the coupler. This way the 1" pipe when it slides in will connect with the 1 1/4" pipe. Drill a hole big enough for the 3/4" pipe to fit through at the bottom of the end cap. Take a brass coupler (The metal piece pictured above) and Gorilla Glue it to the inside of the 3/4" pipe. This is to stop the 3/4" pipe from sliding all the way out from the end cap. Drill a hole on the 1" pipe and 1 1/4" pipe near the ends and insert a kayak spring clip. This part is just like the last build. Insert a magnet into the bowl of the brass metal piece to act as a catch on the kayak spring. Lastly, take a 1" dowel rod and some subfloor pieces and make the little piece shown above. I Gorilla glued them together, then inserted it into the end of the 1 1/4" pipe. It then gets fastened with 4 woods screws that go through the PVC and into the wooden piece.

    15319293_1545731088774049_7088312379880370643_n.jpg
    Cut the middle section of the round body in half, then glue the remainder together. This gapped section provides the wooden tongue to spin freely when it is bolted in.

    15135934_1536859756327849_5950897089727783250_n.jpg

    Again I apologize for not taking more photos, but I'll try to explain the rest as best as I can.
    The main housing pieces are made completely out of foam as well. Make sure to have a solid disk that matches the body pieces. Make 2 disks out of sub floor that also match the circled body pieces. Hotglue the wood disks to the body pieces. Insert the wooden tongue into the gap and center it with the blade's center. Place the housing pieces on top of the wooden disks and center those as well. Drill down directly center through all the pieces with a 1/4" drill bit. Insert a 3" long 1/4" bolt and put a nut at the end. Move down about an inch towards the handle and drill another hole all the way through. This hole now acts as a locking hole and when another 3" bolt is put in it prevents the handle from turning. Turn the handle to each position that you need (Gun and scythe) and drill through the housing and body pieces (It's best to line it up with the hole you already drilled for the sword position. Make sure to keep an eye on the housing pieces while you do this as you want them to be facing the right way for each position.

    Add paint, and you should be done!
    Like I said, I'm sorry I didn't keep better track of this build, but if you have any questions just leave a comment and I'll answer them for you. Plus I'll be posting a video here shortly where I walk through and show these pieces off better.
     
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  19. Bentspoon

    Bentspoon New Member

    Hi I was wondering what type of EVA Foam you used and how thick it was? Also how did you make the scythe be able to stay connected together? I am currently working on a similar build so help would be much appreciated!
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2017
  20. Benton188

    Benton188

    I used 1/2" EVA foam from Harbor Freight. The pieces are held together by not cutting the center section all the way to the back of the blade. Here's a picture to help better demonstrate what I mean:
    Blade help.jpg
     
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  21. bestellen

    bestellen New Member

    I hope it comes out as well as you want it to.
     
  22. sora

    sora New Member

  23. Benton188

    Benton188

    Yep, I actually posted a picture of the dimensions just a little further up on this page.
     
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  24. sora

    sora New Member

    thx do you maybe got it as wel for the inner parts or i'm looking over it
     
  25. Benton188

    Benton188

    Yep yep. Guess I only ever uploaded the outer sections photo, here's the inner measurements for the cuts:
    Qrow Blade help 1.jpg Qrow Blade Help 2.jpg
     
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