Discussion in 'Non-Halo Costumes and Props' started by Benton188, Dec 31, 2015.
thx man when im don i will show how it workt out for me
Sounds good =) If you need anything else just let me know, I check the 405th page everyday so I can get back to you asap
I know this thread hasn’t been used in like a year but I’m new here,I found this and had a few questions so I made an account. I want to build this for an upcoming cosplay I’m going to with some friends, but I’m quite confused about the folding mechanism, pictured in the post I’m replying to. Also, I would prefer to use some kind of wood rather than foam, to make it as sturdy as possible, how might I be able to subsistute this? And one question about the hilt; how long are each of the pipe segments? Thanks in advance, if this even gets seen, haha.
Luckily I am still around You could substitute the the outer 2 layers of foam for either MDF or 3/16 sublfoor if you wanted to. For the foam version the folding mechanism relies on the middle section of foam remaining a solid piece about 1 inch down from the back edge of the sword. When you fold it open, that section of foam holds it together and prevents the sword from separating. Magnets are installed to help lock it in either the open or closed positions. If you replace the outer pieces with wood you could and pins to help lock it in place when it transforms, similar to how I used pins or bolts to lock the center piece in it's positioning. The first sword scythe I built was made almost entirely out of wood and weighed a boat load, so be prepared to be hauling around a heavy prop.
As for pipe segment lengths: Outer pipe 20" Middle pipe 19" Last pipe 20"
If you have any more questions, or want to brainstorm a little more, feel free to contact me on my page here: facebook.com/bentonsbuilds
I check 405th about 3 times a week as well so whichever works best for you.
I’ll probably pick up some MDF to use for the outer layers, however I’m still a little lost on the foam stuff. I think I understand how the pieces work for the most part, when they bend at the joints the top corner gets caught on the sharp edge of the sword and can’t go further? That’s what I’m getting from it. But if the middle section isn’t quite as wide as the outside sections, what does it catch on exactly? And as for the pins thing, I wanted to use something like that but I don’t know where I would be putting the pins. I know I’m asking a lot of questions, sorry about that. I don’t currently have a Facebook account but I have been considering making one, would it be easier to discuss and brainstorm ideas there rather than here?
Brainstorming on here is fine if you don't have facebook. Here's an image that best shows how it works:
So if you're going for a full wood build here's how it would look on the inside. The last bit of the blade shows what it looks like covered up with 3/16" subfloor. So along the top of the blade (Where the red blades would be) I had small cabinet hinges I got from home depot. Keeps all the pieces connected together and allows them to rotate. The bottom edge when it swings gets caught on the sharp edge of the blade (not in this picture above, but in the picture below) You can best see it in the first section of the blade with the little tongue sticking out. Now here's a picture of it with all the panels on and the sharp edge attached:
You can see the screws along the bottom that holds that sharp edge on which is independent of the middle boards, but is still part of each section of the blade. So when the blade sections rotate into scythe mode the middle parts get caught on the attached sharp edge. You can kind of see it in this picture here:
Now while the hinges help rotate the blade into sword or scythe mode, they don't keep them locked in that mode, which is why I recommended pins or screws. I used set-in screws, but made it awkward to transform it (usually took 5min on a good day lol). Magnets won't work cause of the weight it section was nor velcro either.
The other good news is the measurements I used on the foam version were a direct copy of the ones I used on the wood version, so you can use these to cut the wood to the right angles and such to get the right amount of rotation for each piece:
Hopes this helps explain things a little better. I try and record everything I do, but with so much trial and error I often forget to take pictures and such =/ Let me know if I need to explains things more though.
Alright, this actually explained a LOT, pretty sure I understand all of the blade mechanism now. I only have a few more questions, most importantly, was the blade edge made? Did you just put in a piece of narrow wood and sand it down to a point? I’ve seen another design that just glues an aluminum angled bar to the edge but if there’s any chance I can use wood instead of that I’m taking it lol. Wood is just the easiest thing for me to work with, I’m sure it’ll be heavy but as long as it looks and works I’m willing to deal with it, haha. I have a few small questions about the body piece, but it’s pretty much all about measurements. Like basically what are the dimensions for each part? And lastly, the pins, hinges, screws, things like that. Where exactly would the pins be placed if I wanted to be able to switch between locking them in sword and scythe modes? I considered using some kind of system with bolts and nuts, so it’d be be simple to take them out and fasten them back in. But I’m not sure where they would go. And as for the hinges, what size hinges and what width of wood for the center blade would be used? I hope you don’t mind all the questions haha, thanks a ton for answering them though. I really do appreciate it
Sorry for the delay of getting back to you. Must've had the page open cause the notification never pinged that I got a new message =/
Anywho, I do have a picture that has most of the measurements here except for the little hole area, just eyeballed that one for proper size:
As for the blade, it actually comes from the main cut out here (I know it's the foam version, but it's the same design I used for the wood one) You cut out these triangle sections and they get sandwiched between the outer layers of wood. Don't attach them back to the center piece of wood. To get the angle I used a router with a 45 degree bit :
The pins are a little tricky to explain, but it goes like this. You're going to need 2 holes on each outer section and one hole for each middle section. The way it works is when the section rotates on the hinge the middle hole will line up with one of the 2 outer holes, respectively for sword or scythe mode. I know this picture will do little, but it's the best I have as this is hard to see when the blade is fully assembled:
So what you see is the pin in the one hole, which is the sword mode. When removed the hinge will allow the middle board to rotate and line up with the other hole behind it. It's easiest to mark the sword mode holes first, then taking the outer boards off and rotating the sections to scythe mode and marking those holes afterwards. It took a lot of careful and precise placement to get this right.
Lastly, for board thickness I went with Common Board from Home Depot. Measures 72" long, 11 3/4" wide, 3/4" thick. Hinges were only 3/4" wide as well to fit the middle board.
And no, questions like this don't bother me at all man. Just happy I can help fellow builders =) Do wish I still had the original wood version though, would make explaining it a little easier as I could take more pics, but I had to make space this summer so it had to go.
I would really like to see this get done with the Ember Celica, I would buy as many as I could
I have just about pulled all my hair out trying to think about doing Ember Celica. But, Yang's gauntlets are one of the few weapons from that show that actually defy all logic when they transform. I slowed down the animation frame by frame and they just magical grow larger. That little piece she wears when it's compact or put away, is the large piece that acts as the cocking mechanism when it's in gun mode. Makes no sense whats so ever lol
Recently I’ve just been playing around and trying to get it all working, and I think now I’ve got it. I have all the blade pieces cut out, I just need to add the hinges and the blade edges that the center blade catches on, then put the outer layers on. But after that I have to figure something out with the body... any tips or ideas? I wasn’t thinking straight when I cut my wood cause my middle layer doesn’t have the circular piece at the end for the body like yours does. I have the same size PVC as you though, 1 1/4” as the biggest. What do you recommend for the body and attaching everything to it?
That sounds horrible when it comes to making armor, I’m sorry I suggested it lol
It honestly would have been best to keep the circular part of the main body. You can maybe try and cut out a circular piece of wood and Gorilla Wood Glue it on, but it may fail. You could always just trace that one section and cut it out again with the circular part on it too, that would be the best option.
Yeah I’ll probably cut a new piece if I have the wood, what would I do about the hilt? If the wood tongue thing is usually in the middle later, where will it go if the middle layer is that piece?
The wooden tongue from the handle only comes in half way, and so does the round bit from the main body for that matter. This way when you rotate the handle it'll butt up against the middle section and help hold the handle in it's position. The handle is what rotates, not the blade itself. Here's a pic to clarify:
Yes I think I understand that, however that’s foam... any idea how my wooden version will work?
Should work the same way. You'll want to take the outer layers and extend them from the blade to the guard. You may need to add more wood onto the gaurd to help build it up, as well as reinforce it. In any case if it's made from wood or foam or, as with my last one plexiglass, it's going to be very dangerous lifting or holding the sword sideways. Where it goes from the guard to the blade is a weak point, so anyway you can reinforce that will help.
I've been lurking this post for awhile now, it would be difficult to implement but any chance you've found a way to have the sword collapse entirely? When Qrow is carrying it on his back, half the length of the blade (the half with the tip) is inside the other.
I've been looking into doing both Crescent rose and Qrow's Scythe out of aluminum
Got some sizes and pictures for me? Might be able to slap something together in 3d to see how/if it works
There is a decent enough model on Thingiverse; Harbinger (Qrow's sword from RWBY) by gibbygabe10. The model appears to be to scale, although the pieces get bigger as you move towards the tip of the blade.
According to the exchange between Qrow and Winter (over the course of 3 frames) the sword is suppose to be telescopic, with the tip being the inner most piece. Assuming a wall thickness around 1/8", if each blade section becomes wider in cross section, it should be possible. The blade would need to expand anyway for the scythe blades to extend.
The model in the series unfortunately, like several others has most of the components sharing the same space.
I've attached a demonstration on how the sword would require to function in order to appear most accurate when folded and unfolded
My original plan was to have it collapsible as well, but I found it increasingly difficult to plan so I scrapped the idea. I instead went with a way to detach the last two sections and make it look as though the sword was in "compact mode". I'm sure there is a way to do it, especially if you're deciding to do it out of aluminum since it can be thin sheets. The trickiest part will be getting to rotate once extended and stay locked in place when it turns into a scythe. I've made both an Oobleck Thermos, and Ozpin's Cane that are collapsible and sturdy, but a sword that can also go into scythe mode is going to be very tricky lol.
I'm in the process of modeling one up right now. I found the blade to be relatively easy, as it would turn out its only suppose to be about a half inch thick. I'm working on the handle at the moment for this reason. I hadn't realized how complicated that mechanism was. There are four overlapping pieces, the "main" handle being second from the top when extended. At the moment, I'm modeling the whole thing assuming a 1/8" wall thickness.
You might be able to do it with a combination of regular PVC and Thinwall PVC, provided your using PVC for the handle. Then again, if you're not scared working with metal, you could make the handle out of it too.
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