RWBY Qrow's Sword Scythe

zaveng7

New Member
Sorry for the delay of getting back to you. Must've had the page open cause the notification never pinged that I got a new message =/
Anywho, I do have a picture that has most of the measurements here except for the little hole area, just eyeballed that one for proper size:View attachment 254791

As for the blade, it actually comes from the main cut out here (I know it's the foam version, but it's the same design I used for the wood one) You cut out these triangle sections and they get sandwiched between the outer layers of wood. Don't attach them back to the center piece of wood. To get the angle I used a router with a 45 degree bit :View attachment 254792

The pins are a little tricky to explain, but it goes like this. You're going to need 2 holes on each outer section and one hole for each middle section. The way it works is when the section rotates on the hinge the middle hole will line up with one of the 2 outer holes, respectively for sword or scythe mode. I know this picture will do little, but it's the best I have as this is hard to see when the blade is fully assembled:
View attachment 254793
So what you see is the pin in the one hole, which is the sword mode. When removed the hinge will allow the middle board to rotate and line up with the other hole behind it. It's easiest to mark the sword mode holes first, then taking the outer boards off and rotating the sections to scythe mode and marking those holes afterwards. It took a lot of careful and precise placement to get this right.

Lastly, for board thickness I went with Common Board from Home Depot. Measures 72" long, 11 3/4" wide, 3/4" thick. Hinges were only 3/4" wide as well to fit the middle board.
And no, questions like this don't bother me at all man. Just happy I can help fellow builders =) Do wish I still had the original wood version though, would make explaining it a little easier as I could take more pics, but I had to make space this summer so it had to go.
Recently I’ve just been playing around and trying to get it all working, and I think now I’ve got it. I have all the blade pieces cut out, I just need to add the hinges and the blade edges that the center blade catches on, then put the outer layers on. But after that I have to figure something out with the body... any tips or ideas? I wasn’t thinking straight when I cut my wood cause my middle layer doesn’t have the circular piece at the end for the body like yours does. I have the same size PVC as you though, 1 1/4” as the biggest. What do you recommend for the body and attaching everything to it?
 

Benton188

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
Recently I’ve just been playing around and trying to get it all working, and I think now I’ve got it. I have all the blade pieces cut out, I just need to add the hinges and the blade edges that the center blade catches on, then put the outer layers on. But after that I have to figure something out with the body... any tips or ideas? I wasn’t thinking straight when I cut my wood cause my middle layer doesn’t have the circular piece at the end for the body like yours does. I have the same size PVC as you though, 1 1/4” as the biggest. What do you recommend for the body and attaching everything to it?
It honestly would have been best to keep the circular part of the main body. You can maybe try and cut out a circular piece of wood and Gorilla Wood Glue it on, but it may fail. You could always just trace that one section and cut it out again with the circular part on it too, that would be the best option.
 

zaveng7

New Member
It honestly would have been best to keep the circular part of the main body. You can maybe try and cut out a circular piece of wood and Gorilla Wood Glue it on, but it may fail. You could always just trace that one section and cut it out again with the circular part on it too, that would be the best option.
Yeah I’ll probably cut a new piece if I have the wood, what would I do about the hilt? If the wood tongue thing is usually in the middle later, where will it go if the middle layer is that piece?
 

Benton188

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
Yeah I’ll probably cut a new piece if I have the wood, what would I do about the hilt? If the wood tongue thing is usually in the middle later, where will it go if the middle layer is that piece?
The wooden tongue from the handle only comes in half way, and so does the round bit from the main body for that matter. This way when you rotate the handle it'll butt up against the middle section and help hold the handle in it's position. The handle is what rotates, not the blade itself. Here's a pic to clarify:
Tongue Clarify.jpg
 

zaveng7

New Member
The wooden tongue from the handle only comes in half way, and so does the round bit from the main body for that matter. This way when you rotate the handle it'll butt up against the middle section and help hold the handle in it's position. The handle is what rotates, not the blade itself. Here's a pic to clarify:
View attachment 254824
Yes I think I understand that, however that’s foam... any idea how my wooden version will work?
 

Benton188

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
Yes I think I understand that, however that’s foam... any idea how my wooden version will work?
Should work the same way. You'll want to take the outer layers and extend them from the blade to the guard. You may need to add more wood onto the gaurd to help build it up, as well as reinforce it. In any case if it's made from wood or foam or, as with my last one plexiglass, it's going to be very dangerous lifting or holding the sword sideways. Where it goes from the guard to the blade is a weak point, so anyway you can reinforce that will help.
 

CollinMcCaf

Member
I've been lurking this post for awhile now, it would be difficult to implement but any chance you've found a way to have the sword collapse entirely? When Qrow is carrying it on his back, half the length of the blade (the half with the tip) is inside the other.
I've been looking into doing both Crescent rose and Qrow's Scythe out of aluminum
Qrow.JPG
 

Hein B107

Jr Member
Got some sizes and pictures for me? Might be able to slap something together in 3d to see how/if it works
 

CollinMcCaf

Member
Got some sizes and pictures for me? Might be able to slap something together in 3d to see how/if it works
There is a decent enough model on Thingiverse; Harbinger (Qrow's sword from RWBY) by gibbygabe10. The model appears to be to scale, although the pieces get bigger as you move towards the tip of the blade.
According to the exchange between Qrow and Winter (over the course of 3 frames) the sword is suppose to be telescopic, with the tip being the inner most piece. Assuming a wall thickness around 1/8", if each blade section becomes wider in cross section, it should be possible. The blade would need to expand anyway for the scythe blades to extend.
The model in the series unfortunately, like several others has most of the components sharing the same space.

I've attached a demonstration on how the sword would require to function in order to appear most accurate when folded and unfolded
CrossSection.JPGHalfExtended.JPG
 

Benton188

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
I've been lurking this post for awhile now, it would be difficult to implement but any chance you've found a way to have the sword collapse entirely? When Qrow is carrying it on his back, half the length of the blade (the half with the tip) is inside the other.
I've been looking into doing both Crescent rose and Qrow's Scythe out of aluminum
View attachment 254848
My original plan was to have it collapsible as well, but I found it increasingly difficult to plan so I scrapped the idea. I instead went with a way to detach the last two sections and make it look as though the sword was in "compact mode". I'm sure there is a way to do it, especially if you're deciding to do it out of aluminum since it can be thin sheets. The trickiest part will be getting to rotate once extended and stay locked in place when it turns into a scythe. I've made both an Oobleck Thermos, and Ozpin's Cane that are collapsible and sturdy, but a sword that can also go into scythe mode is going to be very tricky lol.
 

CollinMcCaf

Member
I'm in the process of modeling one up right now. I found the blade to be relatively easy, as it would turn out its only suppose to be about a half inch thick. I'm working on the handle at the moment for this reason. I hadn't realized how complicated that mechanism was. There are four overlapping pieces, the "main" handle being second from the top when extended. At the moment, I'm modeling the whole thing assuming a 1/8" wall thickness.
 

Benton188

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
You might be able to do it with a combination of regular PVC and Thinwall PVC, provided your using PVC for the handle. Then again, if you're not scared working with metal, you could make the handle out of it too.
 

Gaming Sentry

New Member
Now That I think about It I met you at RTX 2018 while waiting in line for the Cosplay completion, I remember looking at it and being extremely curious on how it worked
 

Benton188

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
Now That I think about It I met you at RTX 2018 while waiting in line for the Cosplay completion, I remember looking at it and being extremely curious on how it worked
Couldn't have been me, I haven't been to RTX since 2014.
 
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