It's been over 2 weeks since the last posting and after looking back at the helmet in 3d space on Blender, I keep looking at the parts where I could have improved on the helmet's aesthetics. So I searched around the net again in order to find more answers on the helmet. Now, after realizing what I could actually done, I decided to maintain the artistic freedom I had to make this helmet. I can always make a helmet more closer to the original design at a later time. So after 16 days, which is a lot faster when I first made the helmet that took me a month to make, I have made my most recent version of the helmet shown below.

Red Racer X Line 2 Front.png



Red Racer X Line 2 Angle .png


Now, let's talk about strategy about the painting process. The two most important things I have to take into consideration when dealing with the helmet is the chrome look and the top coat. So to those who are still reading this thread far off into the future, outside of the Spaz Stix Chrome paint, there are 2 more levels of the chrome paint process I have to consider. Molotow Chrome Pens WAS number 1 above the Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome, but I have discovered another level of chrome paint called Alsa Killer Chrome Paint. Now, this stuff is about 50 bucks to buy for 1 can and I have investigated it a lot to get a better understanding of how it works and how it dries before committing to buying it. However, the caveat that I heard about so far with Molotow Liquid Chrome Markers is that it can not be clear coated. So with that in mind, I may have to purchase that and the next item that's needed, 2K Clear Coat.

2K Clear Coat is an automotive protective top coat that protects the paint from UV Rays. It's compatible with paints like Rustoleum and will give you a nice sheen mirror sheen like gloss over it. However, there are some cons with this product. One, it's very toxic if inhaled. Again use a respirator with this product just like any other. The second one is something like to call the "Cinderella" effect. 2K Clear Coat Spray Max has 2 parts you have to combine. There's the can itself and the red part called the activator. You place the red activator cap at the bottom of the can where the pin is and slam the activator to "break the seal". This is where the Cinderella effect kicks in. Once you shake it up for 2 minutes, you have a total of 24 hours of usage. Now, this would be useful for other 3d printed armor parts like Ironman or for you Halo fans, your armor as well if you chose. The main reason why you have a small window is because it is slowly curing inside the can. Any usage after the 18th hour, from what I discovered will become grainy. After the 19th hour, it's a paper weight. But, if done correctly, it gives off an awesome finish.

Both the Alsa Chrome Paint and the 2k Clear Coat is going to cost me about 70 bucks combined before taxes. The Alsa Chrome Paint alone is just 49.95 and the 2k Clear Coat is about 20 bucks.

I believe that at this point, in order for me to make use of the this product especially if I only have a total 24 hours, there is one other option to left to do... Make another prop! I have an idea of what to make but you are going to have to wait a bit longer to see what I have in mind. Until next time, see you around.
 
I have a short update to post. I think I have the answer to the problem dealing with the pot life for the 2K Clear Coat... Making a prop!

1566269759156.png


With the Red Lighting/Fender Sword <--Super Sentai counterpart, I can use the clear coat to at least 50 percent when I make the handle and the guard. I also took a look on how to create the blade out of EVA Foam and found an interesting tutorial about it. As far as making this sword, finding references for this weapon at different angles was a bit of a challenge. Luckily, I was able to find a low poly 3d model of it and recreated it in Blender again. Didn't take me long to actually make it. Here are the results.

Fender Sword Shot 1.png


Fender Sword Shot 2.png


Fender Sword Shot 3.png


I broke it down in 4 parts, but from how thin the blade is, I might have to consider how to create the "rod" for the blade. I also thought about having the guard engraved by modeling the symbol into guard instead of painting it. But that idea will be open to ideas and opinions.

But I think that I should go head and get things ready to purchase the chrome paint and the 2k Clear Coat. But before I even do that, I would like to perform one more printing test to see if I can improve my paint can skills. If the Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome fails even with 1 light coat, I'll go ahead and buy the other cans next week. Until next time, see you around.
 
One week has passed so I think it's about time I update this thread. After careful consideration, I'm going to incorporate a simple lighting system into the build. Had to take a quick crash course into making a connection with a battery, but this is where I have a problem in this situation. I don't want to stick a 9 Volt battery inside if it's going to shift my head over to the right. I have to find another power source to compensate for it. I may have to consider to use button batteries, but in order to equate the 9 volt charge I was planning on using, I will have to rig the holders to match the voltage of that 9 volt since the maximum amount is 3 volts for each one. I'll have to wait and see on that one. Another answer would be to increase the width of the helmet, but I can only go so far before it becomes awkwardly weird. There's also the situation dealing with the best type of switch to use. I was thinking about using a tact push button switch, but I don't know if it's small enough to be discreet.

Also, I managed to call a couple of stores in town to see if I can find that 2k Clearcoat and low and behold, I found one! Went down yesterday to get a can. That's one situation down.

The third and final situation is the cooling system. I did come across some fans I can install some use batteries and another use a USB for a connection to a power bank both cost the same price, but it would be weird to get a long USB cord coming out of the helmet like that. So I may opt in for the battery powered one.

I still have time to get this done. So right now, my main focus is to get this helmet printed again and work on that auto show room kind of style.
 
One week has passed so I think it's about time I update this thread. After careful consideration, I'm going to incorporate a simple lighting system into the build. Had to take a quick crash course into making a connection with a battery, but this is where I have a problem in this situation. I don't want to stick a 9 Volt battery inside if it's going to shift my head over to the right. I have to find another power source to compensate for it. I may have to consider to use button batteries, but in order to equate the 9 volt charge I was planning on using, I will have to rig the holders to match the voltage of that 9 volt since the maximum amount is 3 volts for each one. I'll have to wait and see on that one. Another answer would be to increase the width of the helmet, but I can only go so far before it becomes awkwardly weird. There's also the situation dealing with the best type of switch to use. I was thinking about using a tact push button switch, but I don't know if it's small enough to be discreet.

Also, I managed to call a couple of stores in town to see if I can find that 2k Clearcoat and low and behold, I found one! Went down yesterday to get a can. That's one situation down.

The third and final situation is the cooling system. I did come across some fans I can install some use batteries and another use a USB for a connection to a power bank both cost the same price, but it would be weird to get a long USB cord coming out of the helmet like that. So I may opt in for the battery powered one.

I still have time to get this done. So right now, my main focus is to get this helmet printed again and work on that auto show room kind of style.
What kind of lighting are you using that needs 9V or does that also include your cooling fan setup?
 
What kind of lighting are you using that needs 9V or does that also include your cooling fan setup?

Okay for the lighting setup, it's very simple really. In both Power Rangers Turbo the Movie and the show version, there are actually parts of the helmet that lights up. It only happened at least twice in the show's lifespan.

1567045932383.png


Now for the cooling fan setup, that's a hole different story. Remember the post I made a few months back that describe the minute by minute progression with using the helmet? If you don't want to go back and look for it, here's a recap of it. 2 minutes after wearing the helmet, every winds up fine. But after the 5 minute mark, it becomes slightly difficult to breathe do to the fact that the pocket of air inside becomes stale and heated from the carbon dioxide I was breathing out and that's with breathing holes created. So in order to create adequate air flow, I would need a helmet cooling fan for air circulation. However, there will be a bit of a change to the helmet where I will make the visor. Instead of making a hole in a certain plastic part of the helmet, I decided to actually pivot a bit and leave an empty space in the printed helmet below the main visor.

2019-08-28 22_50_16-Blender_ [O__Cosplay Folder_Super Sentai_Carranger_Carranger Red Ranger He...png


By doing this, I can extend the visor into the lover sections or I can create 2 more visor pieces and create 4 millimeter slits about 2 inches long in order to maintain air flow. These slits will also be incorporated into the main visor as well and with the cooling fan, it will provide optimal air flow when powered on. That's the plan. If by any means that the structural integrity of the helmet becomes compromised through the printing process, I will fall back to the original plan and carve out some breathing holes in the 3d model before it is exported.

So to recap, the lighting system and the cooling system will be installed separately and not share the same power supply. If I knew how to combine them, since I just learned out to set up an electrical circuit, I could rig both the lighting system and the cooling system on the same circuit. However, there's a limit to the LED's power consumption that I have and I rather not try to cross that line. These are 5 mm LEDS that are normally used for flashlights, but with out a tool to test the brightness of the LED's, I would rather not try to push them to the limits.
 
For the past week, I had this holy grail of clear coat in my hands, but another problem arose with this product. See, paint companies have these "patented formulas" that hasn't been tested with other brands due to some sort of potential chemical incompatibility with each other. Think of it as the Hatfields and the McCoy type of paint brands as an example. Now, as much as I wanted to use this clear coat product, this is ONE major process you have to take into consideration. One major goof up in the plan will set you back days of getting this thing into completion. Since I'm not the type of guy who likes to goof up on this project, I decide to call around to see what paints are compatible with this situation.

Spraymax 2K clear coat is normally formulated for automotive paints and those paints are under a different formula in comparison to your normal enamel paint. So I decided to call both Duplicolor and Rustoleum CS lines to get some answers. Long story short, a representative for Duplicolor and Rustoleum respectively told me that neither one of them are compatible. I should have asked the reason why and they didn't give me a reason exactly.
From a consumer stand point, if they found out that you COULD mix up different products of paint and not use their products, less money for them.
So I searched even deeper into the net for answers and what I found in multitude forums that it is possible to pull that off! However, enough must pass in order to use the clear coat over it. If I were to paint the helmet in its color scheme of red, black and silver, that's going to be at least 3 days apart before I put on the clear coat. However, that may not be enough time for it to be completely dry...

So here's the plan for the paint. I'm going to move forward using the clear coat, but I'm going to have to invest in a high gloss black paint first.
Then, instead of waiting 24 hours, I'll give it 48 hours instead for each color of paint. After first hand experience, placing tape over it will peel off some parts that was still drying. After the 144 hours are up, then I'll use the clear coat.

One more thing that I will have to mention is this. The chrome paint is going to be purchased from Alsa. Sacrificing my money in the pursuit of perfection. Am I right? Might as well go all in! Think about! The most expensive items I bought in the project was over 100 Dollars +!

The Cacazan Gloves were 130.96. The Ender 3D printer is 220 dollars and the CR-10 is 354 dollars. So in the past year, I have basically gone through almost 800 dollars on this cosplay alone along with materials. Just need to at least wait a bit longer to get that paint.

Any way,that's all for now. At this moment, I'm printing the helmet again. On the next post, which will start the 3 part process of painting the helmet, I will post updates at least next week on how things are coming along. Until next time!
 
So something interesting happened while I was trying to finalize the helmet being printed. I went though a Goldilocks scenario of sorts.

First Print was the back part of the helmet:
This part is a bit too small.

The next print was with the front part of the helmet, but when I looked at my slicer while I was printing, I was spooked for seeing a missing layer line.
So I stopped the print before it go to the line, checked out the file, and it turns out that the file was just fine...
Ugh! >____________________________________________> Stupid psyche!

Tried on what was printed at that point...

This part is a bit too big!

So with what ever amount of filament I had left, I printed the part again after careful resizing and...

Picture 93.jpg
Picture 94.jpg
Picture 91.jpg
Picture 92.jpg


This part is juusssst right! XD

Strangest thing is the fact that it's staying on my head alone! No tape or adhesive was used to keep this thing on my head and this was just the front half!

However, despite the fact that it took 74 hours just to print this thing alone, I think it may have consumed too much than it needed. So I went back into Blender and I thinned out the thickness of the shell a bit. I am now on the right track and all I need to do now is to reprint this again with the new changes in the thickness again. Along with adding new custom supports in Blender before I export it and it should clean up the jagged edges around the visor. That means I'm going to go out and get me some more filament as a precaution. If all goes well, everything should be printed out for stage 2 by next Tuesday.

Until next time! See you around!
 
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