Yup. You shorted and basically were creating the equivalent to a hot wire cutter.After looking up a tutorial for the aforementioned problem, I saw where I went wrong. Take a look at this tutorial at the 3:33 mark.
As it turns out that I needed only 1 set of wires connected to the switch. I haven't soldered them yet since it was only for a test for the connection. So where I went wrong was that I had two positive wires at one contact of the switch and both of the negative wires on the other contact of the switch.
So when it was turned off, due to the previous setup I had, I think it created a feedback loop to where there was power still flowing through and that is what made the battery heat up. So that problem has been solved. However, I may need to create a second fan just in case, but I have to see if I have enough room for it as well. The other battery holder I had only held up to 4.5 volts and it didn't even jerk the fan. So I can save that for another project. But I at least learned an important step on how connections work.
What? Woah... I haven't come across a phenomenon like that since elementary school for a class project. Had a crazy idea for electric hand warmers, but with only 2 uncoiled paper clips bound to both sides of a size C battery and by rubbing both sides with another paper clip attached to a clipped off wire, I thought I was on to something!Yup. You shorted and basically were creating the equivalent to a hot wire cutter.
Your theory is solid good sir. I vacuum form over PLA+ bucks fairly regularly and for the amount of time that the thin heated PETG is actually at that temperature after being pressed onto the buck and pulled down you have fairly little to worry about when it comes to deformation of your buck.Now, here's my theory on this...
PETG starts to soften at 167 F/75 C.
PLA+ actually gets soft at 195 C/383 F.
In theory, the prints in the PLA for the visor should be strong enough to deal with the heated PETG Sheets.
This is where things get dicey. Despite the difference in temperature, I will put at least a 40 percent chance of failure for this. I just need to create a base for the larger visor. I can use some of the extra pieces of wood I have lying around to create a base for it. Once I get the helmet its couple layers of the first color of paint, I will post the progress of making my own vacuum forming box. It will be a very interesting thing to make with just 1 dremel!
Anyway, that's all for now! See you next time!
Ahhhhh. Good thing to know about that. Now, I just need to remember if I need to make the sheet slightly bigger than the box. I also need to figure out if I need to have the vacuum insert hole from the side or down. I think that the vacuum I have may not be enough... More investigation is needed.Your theory is solid good sir. I vacuum form over PLA+ bucks fairly regularly and for the amount of time that the thin heated PETG is actually at that temperature after being pressed onto the buck and pulled down you have fairly little to worry about when it comes to deformation of your buck.
I checked. It's there. However, it was only centralized in the top left quadrant of the helmet going up to the crown. So I started with a grit that was low enough to remove that elevation and sanded it down. When there were tell tale spots that I was removing the paint, I went up to 800 grit and repeated the process until I went to 3000 grit to ensure that the drip were eroded enough to be smooth to the touch. As of right now, the parts are going over the red paint I'm keeping an eye on it as I'm going to apply a total of 4 light coats total for coverage.Is it paint drips that are visible? You might be able to save it with a high enough grit sandpaper to smooth out the drip without removing the whole coat. Fingers crossed and good luck sir!
It kind of depends on what the spots are. If it's accumulated powder that didn't fully dissolve in the dye water, you might be able to wash it off and have minimal staining. If it's points that accumulated due to contact of the visor to the dye pot, your hangar or something else it may be a little bit harder.Okay. Mother Nature can be so unpredictable at times. So today, I was able to clear coat all of the important stuff from the 3d Printed parts and the can lasted through this one job until it sputtered out. I no longer have to deal with a paperweight using the Spraymax 2K clear coat. Now, all i have to do is to wait to put in the electronics and the second task will be done.
However, there's a bit of a set back on the task of the visor. After I created the dye bath using 2 IDye packets, I dipped them once for about 3 to 5 minutes. I didn't want it to be super dark were I can't see out so after that time has passed, I placed them in the cold water after I got the right about of tint I needed. When I took them out, there were dark spots all over the visor. Now, in this situation, can I remove them using a plastic cleaner or do I have to start all over with making new visors? Really hope it's not the latter,but I have a strange feeling that's what I'm going to have to do...