Stuff Goes Here... Progress Thread.
- Thread starter Humungotron
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Humungotron
Jr Member
The glassed pep helm is for a buck/tutorial. It's so I have something to base the curves off of, and I'll probably give it away when I'm done with it.
As for waterjetting assistance, absolutely. I tried using the emachineshop software, but the problem lies in the user. I don't have the patience to learn a new piece of software in order to do something that I can just do on a bandsaw. Granted, it's going to be a lot faster/easier to get everything proportionally correct if it's precut. I'll probably be PMing you in the near future. I want to get started on the filler work before I commit to how I'm going to build this.
As for waterjetting assistance, absolutely. I tried using the emachineshop software, but the problem lies in the user. I don't have the patience to learn a new piece of software in order to do something that I can just do on a bandsaw. Granted, it's going to be a lot faster/easier to get everything proportionally correct if it's precut. I'll probably be PMing you in the near future. I want to get started on the filler work before I commit to how I'm going to build this.
Glad you like itHumungotron said:
Wow, good work and really very hot batchHumungotron said:
I tried to request price quotation for cutting some armor parts on sheetmetal laser cut machine.
$hitz, it so expensive for me, so I'm going pepakura way
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Humungotron
Jr Member
slight update...
I'm almost done with a giant project at work thats been dumped in my lap. No more 4am to 4pm shifts. Whee.
Consequentially, I'll be able to start in on the metal working soon. I've probably sent about 2 hours doing filler work on the helm I glassed, but I'm not sure if I've positioned the details right, and need some input.
This is only 36 grit, so its a little rough. Problem I'm having is with the area right above the 'intake scoop', where the LED's go. I think I'm close, but something looks off, and I can't see what. Hopefully you can.
This is what I've been beating my head against for the past month, '70 mustang I rebuilt the rear end of... I'm waiting on a bumper, then I can finish the roll pan, and get this damned thing out of my hair. The one on the ground is just for mock up, but the bumper I built isn't as positionable as a stock bumper, so I can't weld the damned pan together till I get the one I modified back from the bumper shop. Then it goes to the glass shop to get the front end redone. Yay, no more crappy 20 ga. and free time to start making helmet parts.
Sorry for the crappy pic quality, I forgot to bring my camera in today.
I'm almost done with a giant project at work thats been dumped in my lap. No more 4am to 4pm shifts. Whee.
Consequentially, I'll be able to start in on the metal working soon. I've probably sent about 2 hours doing filler work on the helm I glassed, but I'm not sure if I've positioned the details right, and need some input.
This is only 36 grit, so its a little rough. Problem I'm having is with the area right above the 'intake scoop', where the LED's go. I think I'm close, but something looks off, and I can't see what. Hopefully you can.
This is what I've been beating my head against for the past month, '70 mustang I rebuilt the rear end of... I'm waiting on a bumper, then I can finish the roll pan, and get this damned thing out of my hair. The one on the ground is just for mock up, but the bumper I built isn't as positionable as a stock bumper, so I can't weld the damned pan together till I get the one I modified back from the bumper shop. Then it goes to the glass shop to get the front end redone. Yay, no more crappy 20 ga. and free time to start making helmet parts.
Sorry for the crappy pic quality, I forgot to bring my camera in today.
Humungotron
Jr Member
if I make it out of 16ga, yeah. the amount of 18ga sheet metal required to make this won't weigh more than 8 to 12 lbs.
Besides, I'm doing it because I can, not because its practical.
Edit: metal aside, I still need input on the details. do they suck? is it close enough for government work? anyone? Bueller?
Besides, I'm doing it because I can, not because its practical.
Edit: metal aside, I still need input on the details. do they suck? is it close enough for government work? anyone? Bueller?
Humungotron
Jr Member
double post.. yes... but I seriously need some input on this thing, I'm going in tomorrow to work on it, and would like a second opinion on the lines.
LastSpartan
Sr Member
Maybe clearer pictures? But I believe it looks good.
TheBlackSpot1228
Jr Member
Y'know... I had been thinking to myself: Why hasn't anyone made a metal suit of armor? And WABAM! You are.
redragon74
Well-Known Member
itd be cool but it can get heavy, very hot in the sun *tis metal* and hard to do and walk in *comfortably* dont know bout you but i know i would want some hot metal from the sun rubbing on my junkTheBlackSpot1228 said:
would be cool to see though, even chillin on a manakin
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leegrisham
Well-Known Member
Durn nice stang, from when a car was a car.
The details look good, take some pics from top and back but that profile looks right.
The details look good, take some pics from top and back but that profile looks right.
TurkeyAssassin
Jr Member
Dang dude you must have allot of time on your hands lol.
Thats awesome
Thats awesome
Humungotron
Jr Member
I'm going in tomorrow to get the bulk of the filler work done on my helmet, and I'll bring the camera along, so, no more crappy cel phone pics. I'll get some more pics of the mustang and the other projects in the shop, if anyone's interested.
leegrisham
Well-Known Member
Sure pic em up
Humungotron
Jr Member
Humungotron
Jr Member
Because I remembered my camera...
Finished the cowl today. The bumper needs a little more work ( the bumper shop did me no good, I ended up leading it, since its getting painted; BTW, lead sucks. its fun, but it still sucks. hot lead down your shoes is not as entertaining as it sounds).
40 Merc convertible I've rebuilt both doorjambs on. Car is on hold till customer comes in with more money.
The ubiquitous shop truck. I haven't had a chance to work on this thing in forever, and I probably wont, since Matt (one of the guys I work with) hosed it. Never, NEVER, EVER, EVER MIG weld on sheet metal. Or I will kill you. Till you are dead from it.
Which brings me here.
There is some warping here, but a majority of this is caused by camera angle. what little warping there is I'll show how to fix later, when I get a chance to redo my tut on bondo, or, keep reading, since I've already typed about all you need to know, if you're an experimental type.
This is still in 36 grit, I've made a few changes in the half hour I've had to work on it, but I'm still having problems finding good shots of the in-game helmet. The spot above where the ear is is giving me a headache. Also, after staring at the starry night helmet for an hour or so, I ended up filling in the lower 'notch' at the base of the jaw.
I picked up a NIB, unopened LE set (helmet and games) for 50 bucks off of Ebay. Ebay is my god.
The LE helm pretty much confirmed what I was thinking about the lower notch, but the detail on the LE helm sucks monkey scrotum, so I was hoping someone could give me some input on it.
No, I haven't done anything with the back, front, or other side. I'm not going to bother till I get one side set correctly. And I know, the top fins are off. I've got warpage in the front of the helm, but I can get it out once I find the damned heat gun.
Consequentially, for those of you with warping issues:
Buy an industrial heat gun. If you heat up an area roughly twice the size of your warp, you can move the offending part around, and hold it in place till it cools. You can't get massive warp out, but some of the minor issues I've seen can be done this way.
For example, the little inset next to the visor, above where the lights go, was warped severely on one side, and not so much on the other. If you look at the pics above, the one thats now covered in mud (bondo, if you wanna be anal about it) i moved close to 3/4 of an inch. I also took most of the warp out of the underside of the visor.
Now, you can't correct major defects, but you can get alot of annoying little areas fixed without too much hassle. The best way to gauge when the temp is right is by smell. When the resin is starting to get pliable, it'll smell like its curing. another nice side effect of doing this is that it'll drive most of the resin smell out of the helmet.
Areas that aren't tied down are going to move around alot more than parts that are locked - for example, the underside of the visor is easy to fix, as is getting one side of the entire visor to move, but getting the top to move around is going to require alot more heat, and alot more force.
Also, keep in mind that bondo can fix alot of problems. Its around for a reason. if you've got a few spots that have puckered, leave em be if you're going to mud the whole thing. If you're trying to be as accurate as possible, or if you're damned anal retentive like I am, fix them as you go. Only experience will tell you what needs to be fixed, and you're not gonna find that out till you get to the filler work.
any q's, leave em here, and I'll answer when I get back from the movies.
also, can I get this thread moved? Tired of wading through 300 some odd posts with polls about color choices to find my own. I suppose I ought to bookmark the damned thing.
edit: good god, I can't type.
Finished the cowl today. The bumper needs a little more work ( the bumper shop did me no good, I ended up leading it, since its getting painted; BTW, lead sucks. its fun, but it still sucks. hot lead down your shoes is not as entertaining as it sounds).
40 Merc convertible I've rebuilt both doorjambs on. Car is on hold till customer comes in with more money.
The ubiquitous shop truck. I haven't had a chance to work on this thing in forever, and I probably wont, since Matt (one of the guys I work with) hosed it. Never, NEVER, EVER, EVER MIG weld on sheet metal. Or I will kill you. Till you are dead from it.
Which brings me here.
There is some warping here, but a majority of this is caused by camera angle. what little warping there is I'll show how to fix later, when I get a chance to redo my tut on bondo, or, keep reading, since I've already typed about all you need to know, if you're an experimental type.
This is still in 36 grit, I've made a few changes in the half hour I've had to work on it, but I'm still having problems finding good shots of the in-game helmet. The spot above where the ear is is giving me a headache. Also, after staring at the starry night helmet for an hour or so, I ended up filling in the lower 'notch' at the base of the jaw.
I picked up a NIB, unopened LE set (helmet and games) for 50 bucks off of Ebay. Ebay is my god.
The LE helm pretty much confirmed what I was thinking about the lower notch, but the detail on the LE helm sucks monkey scrotum, so I was hoping someone could give me some input on it.
No, I haven't done anything with the back, front, or other side. I'm not going to bother till I get one side set correctly. And I know, the top fins are off. I've got warpage in the front of the helm, but I can get it out once I find the damned heat gun.
Consequentially, for those of you with warping issues:
Buy an industrial heat gun. If you heat up an area roughly twice the size of your warp, you can move the offending part around, and hold it in place till it cools. You can't get massive warp out, but some of the minor issues I've seen can be done this way.
For example, the little inset next to the visor, above where the lights go, was warped severely on one side, and not so much on the other. If you look at the pics above, the one thats now covered in mud (bondo, if you wanna be anal about it) i moved close to 3/4 of an inch. I also took most of the warp out of the underside of the visor.
Now, you can't correct major defects, but you can get alot of annoying little areas fixed without too much hassle. The best way to gauge when the temp is right is by smell. When the resin is starting to get pliable, it'll smell like its curing. another nice side effect of doing this is that it'll drive most of the resin smell out of the helmet.
Areas that aren't tied down are going to move around alot more than parts that are locked - for example, the underside of the visor is easy to fix, as is getting one side of the entire visor to move, but getting the top to move around is going to require alot more heat, and alot more force.
Also, keep in mind that bondo can fix alot of problems. Its around for a reason. if you've got a few spots that have puckered, leave em be if you're going to mud the whole thing. If you're trying to be as accurate as possible, or if you're damned anal retentive like I am, fix them as you go. Only experience will tell you what needs to be fixed, and you're not gonna find that out till you get to the filler work.
any q's, leave em here, and I'll answer when I get back from the movies.
also, can I get this thread moved? Tired of wading through 300 some odd posts with polls about color choices to find my own. I suppose I ought to bookmark the damned thing.
edit: good god, I can't type.
LastSpartan
Sr Member
That's looking rough, but you have pretty much all the shapes!
Next step, Filling Primer, + wet sanding and it should be smooth like a baby's bottom!
Nice work, and nice car xD
Next step, Filling Primer, + wet sanding and it should be smooth like a baby's bottom!
Nice work, and nice car xD
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