The Great Odst Flood Year Long Project

Status
Not open for further replies.
From a cosplayer to cosplayer, this would definatly be a intresting project for sure. For the tentacles you could make them move by using servos to contol the tentacle arms but for the actual body itself that should'nt be too much of a problem besides time consuming and money wise matters, For the upper torso yes I would make a body cast of yourself so that you are making a accurate casting from latex when you go to make the prostetics, from the body cast you could make a fiberglass positive mold of yourself on which to sculpt the plastine clay on and use a good plaster to make a positive and negative mold of the upper body from there you can start with the prostetics and the rest of the fun stuff for a project this size if you wanted to make it good it would run you at least over a thousand bucks to get it perfect.
 
DreamHazard said:
Why not put some kind of pull mechanism inside the tentacles so they can be flexed? This would mean that the tentacle is not just flopping from the hand, it's more "alive".



Just a thought



That's what i was thinking of in my design :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nintendude said:
. For the tentacles you could make them move by using servos to contol the tentacle arms

i do not have that much money but for the servos we could attach strings or fishing wire too the tip of the tentacles that also attach to a ring on one of two fingerson the hand, and when you bend the finger it bend the tip of thetentacles like this[attachment=13445:halo flood hand idea.JPG]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
guilty said:
i do not have that much money but for the servos we could attach strings or fishing wire too the tip of the tentacles that also attach to a ring on one of two fingerson the hand, and when you bend the finger it bend the tip of thetentacles like this[attachment=13445:halo flood hand idea.JPG]



Yeah, thought would be the easy way :D But i would (personally) want to make sure no extra attachments were visible. I know a possible way to make it work but i cant remember what the simple mechanism was called. ill keep an eye out for it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I don't have an example to show you, but you could segment the tentacle on the inside, so it can coil up, and then run a wire from the finger to the end of the tentacle, on the inside. Putting tension on the wire would pull the tentacle into a curve. It wouldn't need to move too much, just very subtly like a chest rising and falling with each breath. Adding a simple pulley system would increase the effect by pulling the tentacle a greater distance
 
Ghost147 said:
Yeah, thought would be the easy way :D But i would (personally) want to make sure no extra attachments were visible. I know a possible way to make it work but i cant remember what the simple mechanism was called. ill keep an eye out for it.

to help make it less visible we could use fishing wire and this design instead

[attachment=13448:halo flood hand idea 2.JPG]

this desighn allows the string to be inside the flood arm until the very end, and the fake hands design allows the fingers to go from normal to squeezed together, to raised and squeezed when you pull you thomb up.

tell me what u think
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Putting attachments on the outside is the ghetto. Making the tentacles move from the inside takes no more effort, just more imagination. Make a rigid armature that runs a small distance inside the tentacle and run a wire to the tip inside- putting in some kind of other rigid or semi rigid segments inside to add as points of purchase might make it more realistic. I also heard something once about putting bike chains inside of fake hands to make them work, I'm sure it would apply here.



IMO putting anything on the outside is just asking for entanglements and mechanism failure.





Edit- this costume would be the most frightening thing on earth with servos and well done latex casting. Imagine that dummy head with moving eyes and mouth- maybe even a head trying to upright itself like a person that still knows what's going on but isn't in control. That is freaky- makes me think of a living hell like jonny get your gun. Extreme metal potential in this costume. *cue cannibal corpse song*



Gl on this, if it's done right it will be awesome.
 
Rosh said:
I also heard something once about putting bike chains inside of fake hands to make them work, I'm sure it would apply here.



IMO putting anything on the outside is just asking for entanglements and mechanism failure.





Edit- this costume would be the most frightening thing on earth with servos and well done latex casting. Imagine that dummy head with moving eyes and mouth- maybe even a head trying to upright itself like a person that still knows what's going on but isn't in control. That is freaky- makes me think of a living hell like jonny get your gun. Extreme metal potential in this costume. *cue cannibal corpse song*



Gl on this, if it's done right it will be awesome.

with the hands the the wire is on the inside and on the tentacle it is on the inside too until the very end

alot of people have suggested something like this but i simply do not have the money or the experience, if you would like to join me and make a spartan flood out of your armor so far maybe you could show me how to do it
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i would suggest using small pulleys on the inside. i have a basic idea on how you might do it, i'll draw it up and post it here later, when i get home from school.
 
Here is my basic idea:

flood1.jpg




The brown is a skeleton made from dowel rods, the gray is some kind of joint or hinge that allows horizontal movement, and the red is the string



in the second picture the yellow is something like coffee hooks that keep the string in close to the dowel rod, yet still allows it to move freely, and the green is a spring that stretches from one dowel rod to the next at the joints, this serves to automatically reopen the hand when you release pressure on the strings



hope this helps a little bit, its just a basic idea, i can throw more brain power at it if ya want



i think this will look amazing when it is done
 
I am actually joining him on this endeavor and hope I do as good a few things



first on the topic of the moving hand look up that old terminator hand toy the o ewhere you put your hand in one end and ti moves the fingers when you squeeze the triggers. Or even the toy grabbers with the animal heads it's much like the drawing that syphon has shone.



On another note I came up with an idea. Latex is expensive and if you have left over fiberglass resin try this, soak a paper towel in the resin and squeeze out so it is damp with rein then all crumpled set it on the side and let it dry it looks pretty cool as far as a hardened crumpled skin
 
Aaron said:
I think thats a great idea. I personally think the flood idea is great because not very many people have done the evil characters. I'd even be willing to send you a few odst pieces! like the rundown helmet that ive been working on!

That would be cool but you should save them as props or extras maybe even make your own flood costume
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Aaron said:
I think thats a great idea. I personally think the flood idea is great because not very many people have done the evil characters. I'd even be willing to send you a few odst pieces! like the rundown helmet that ive been working on!

that would be great ,other than i dont have anything to trade for it but i do have fifty bucks if that would be ok for the helmet, because my halmet jus hit a critical problem, i just realized that i have not been using the right weight of cardstock and i may have to start over. i need to know if 65ibs cardstock will work orelse i will have to start all over again.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Guilty, Could you make a small list in the Original Post who all is in on this? So far Me, You, and Darkwolf :D
 
guilty said:
i need to know if 65ibs cardstock will work orelse i will have to start all over again.



The only reason that people prefer to use 110lbs cardstock is because it helps reduce warping and deformities both in the pre and post resin stages of the project. The heartier the infrastructure, the more resilient it is to sagging and whatnot. These problems can be fixed in the bondo/clay shaping process but the intent is to reduce the amount of time and materials needed during that stage by reducing the problems during all previous steps.



In short, 65lbs will work. Question is, how many problems are you going to have to fix in bondo? I did my first one with 45lbs photostock and the warping was pretty bad, but not too bad. I will say this, if you want to help reduce warping, try inserting a dowell rod into the helmet and hang it upside down when you apply the outer coats of resin.



Here's an image of one I use in my helmet(s):

Support.jpg




Helps it to retain its shape and whatnot. Just hot glue the rods in there and when the resin application is done, you can use the hot glue gun to melt the existing glue holding it in place, or hit it with a heat gun to soften it up so you can yank the rod out.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Rosh said:
Putting attachments on the outside is the ghetto. Making the tentacles move from the inside takes no more effort, just more imagination. Make a rigid armature that runs a small distance inside the tentacle and run a wire to the tip inside- putting in some kind of other rigid or semi rigid segments inside to add as points of purchase might make it more realistic. I also heard something once about putting bike chains inside of fake hands to make them work, I'm sure it would apply here.



Yeah, pretty much what I was getting at



Rosh said:
this costume would be the most frightening thing on earth with servos and well done latex casting. Imagine that dummy head with moving eyes and mouth- maybe even a head trying to upright itself like a person that still knows what's going on but isn't in control. That is freaky- makes me think of a living hell like jonny get your gun. Extreme metal potential in this costume. *cue cannibal corpse song*



Haha Cannibal Corpse = Flood?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ghost147 said:
Im using 65 lb from wal-mart. If you do a nice light coat of resin and then a heavier one after it, it shouldnt warp.



In case your still worried, take a look at the pictures here! http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22628&st=0&p=359935&fromsearch=1&#entry359935 (especially notice the "Resin Update") no warping!

ok i know i'll be fine now because thats what i used to make my first chief halm,it didnt fit but it looked good even without any resin

but i have never done resining before and i dont know what to use(im going off the bfx tutorial and it tells you to use aqua resin) so please tell me what to use, where to get it, and how much it costs.



P.S. i have 110 cardstock but i started my helmet with the 65 cardstock so all other pieces wwii not see the same problem
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top