LeeKegan said:I haven't got around to drawing up the ejection yet but did want to comment about the grip. I had to do modifications on the grip for my M6G. Because if I had left it the same as the drawings it would have been just like what your running into on your grip. I made minor adjustments and you can't really tell...
Thanks for that Lee handy to know that someone else has run into similar things. The build is still going to be a while off yet due to various things. As I progress further I'll keep you updated.
Loess said:I think we have a winner! I tried to find a pic of a H3 shotgun in the hands of a normal sized character, but could only find a H1 version.
I agree with you and Lee that the grip should be modified to better fit in the real world. Accuracy can slip a little in favor of ergonomics.![]()
I haven't started on it yet, but I have a couple ideas for how to make the loading ramp and mag function of a normal, mag-on-the-bottom shotgun work for this. I have to warn you, though, it'll probably be a bear of a mechanism to fit in a wood prop.
I'm interested to see what you've got in mind Loess, even though I may not use it if it's too difficult.
S1l3nt V1p3r said:...Also, how were you able to draw the Shotgun so accurately without a blueprint in Full scale? Seems like you looked at the scaled blueprint and drew it freehand!
Thus far I'm dedicated, not MAD!
I print out an A4 of the picture and then work out the scale the picture is to the "real" article and jot it down in the top right hand corner and multiply all my measurements off the drawing by that. With the M90A I've then gone around the outside and listed as many measurements/angles as I can fit to get the silhouette.
I still need to take measurements off the drawing when I'm transferring to the plyboard though, just not enough room around the drawing to fit all the dimensions I need.
I then take my T square and set squares and transfer the measurements to the plyboard in pencil and then go over them in nikko pen so you guys can see them clearly in the pictures.
You can't see it in this picture but luckily for me the plyboard is cut true so I can use my T square on the edge of it and draw nice accurate measurements.
dDUBb said:That is looking great so far. Makes me think I should have paid more attention during Drafting classes in high school. :rolleyes
- Dan
Thanks Dan. I couldn't have made any of the stuff that I've made in my workshop (like the blue workbench in the pictures) without drawing or following plans. I just couldn't. without a doubt that'll also transfer to my prop building.
Spawn Camp3r said:...ok so I was watching a documentary on halo one day and learned an interesting fast
"the weapons on the ground where made 20% larger to make them more visible while playing"
this explains why it was so huge
OMG I just can't believe I forgot that...
Now that you mention it I recall seeing it now too. Was that somewhere on the H2 CE bonus disk wasn't it?
But what I don't get though is why they list the dimensions as the huge size? Sure scale them up in game, but why say they're made to scale purely for gigantors?

smilie120 said:Amazing work so far!
Also are you aware that you look a lot like Chuck Liddell?
Thanks Smilie! Lol, no I was not aware I looked like Chuck. I think I'd need to heft a lot more full sized M90A's to get to his size now that I've seen him though.
I've (finally) got a decent side view of the bulldog done that I can start scaling up so I hope to do a cutout of it this weekend. But this is all taking a bit long and I really just want to build something from Halo that's not going to take weeks and have to source soundboards for blah, blah, blah. So I've also done some research on another little project that I may be able to knock up quickly in the near future.
Oh! And I'll draw up the 8 gauge round soon too! I'll even do a stencil for the print on the cartridge. I'm thinking of scaling the length down 20% but keeping the OD at 21.21mm so it's an 8 gauge, but able to fit in the reduced loading and ejection ports.
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