WinterHuntsman’s ODST build WIP

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it really does depend on the project. if you are making armor, 1/4th inch is perfect, and thiner foams are good too. if you are making something ike a br, three inch foam is perfect. anything smaller than 5mm is usually for detainling rather than structure. its just preference :D

Yup it really is all preference and project based. I should have specified that I love 12mm for spartan builds to pass off the heavy armor look, but my next build for my wife, I'll be building wonder woman and most likely will step down to a 5mm high density give or take for a majority of that build. For an odst build, 10mm or smaller may be better as they are not meant to look as bulky as spartans.
 
And Step 1 is complete. Foam, utility knife, heat gun, and contact adhesive glue is all ordered and on its way to my house. Now in 4 days when im done with tests and out of this cramped dorm I can start my dream project.
Decided to go with the 12mm foam as I like the look and of bulkier armor. I was looking at that Gold Coast but went with 2 packs of this stuff as it would easier to get (The foam I got).
Still plan on doing It like an ODST but after finishing a heroic run of halo reach, Im starting to get ideas. I may branch off my original plan now, but still make it as ODST as possible.
 
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And Step 1 is complete. Foam, utility knife, heat gun, and contact adhesive glue is all ordered and on its way to my house. Now in 4 days when im done with tests and out of this cramped dorm I can start my dream project.
Decided to go with the 12mm foam as I like the look and of bulkier armor. I was looking at that Gold Coast but went with 2 packs of this stuff as it would easier to get (The foam I got).
Still plan on doing It like an ODST but after finishing a heroic run of halo reach, Im starting to get ideas. I may branch off my original plan now, but still make it as ODST as possible.
Did you get an exacto knife. They really work amazing and the only thing I use. Also it wouldn't hurt for you to grab a bottle of loctite 5 sec super glue. Try it out during your experimenting. You may learn to love it. Also I have found with the super glues, lightly roughing the two surfaces about to be joined with a sanding wheel on a dremel, really promotes fantastic adhesion especially parts that are glued in under tension. You will be shocked at what you will aquire and keep for this hobby. I literally have had the weirdest scraps end up serving the perfect purpose for the most random things.. haha
 
Did you get an exacto knife. They really work amazing and the only thing I use. Also it wouldn't hurt for you to grab a bottle of loctite 5 sec super glue. Try it out during your experimenting. You may learn to love it. Also I have found with the super glues, lightly roughing the two surfaces about to be joined with a sanding wheel on a dremel, really promotes fantastic adhesion especially parts that are glued in under tension. You will be shocked at what you will aquire and keep for this hobby. I literally have had the weirdest scraps end up serving the perfect purpose for the most random things.. haha
I got this for the contact adhesive if this is what your talking about (Glue I got). I believe that is what you guys were suggesting as the only other contact adhesive I saw was gorilla stuff or DAB which came in a glass bottle but appeared to have no way to apply it. If I need something else I can go back to my order and change something as it has not been processed and can still edit it.
 
I got this for the contact adhesive if this is what your talking about (Glue I got). I believe that is what you guys were suggesting as the only other contact adhesive I saw was gorilla stuff or DAB which came in a glass bottle but appeared to have no way to apply it. If I need something else I can go back to my order and change something as it has not been processed and can still edit it.
Yup that's the one. Cool deal. Do you have a dremel with sanding drums? I use my dremel religiously in every aspect of my building. In fact I actually have a power cord splitter that I keep my heat gun and dremel plugged in to permanently because I use them both so much. Lightly roughing the foam about to be glued really works like a champ. Don't have to do it, but something I found that helps tremendously. Also, that CA glue is sensitive to use, don't have much time to join pieces because if it hardens before joining, the glue will not adhere to itself, then you're forced to dremel that dried glue off and start over. So my take away, don't use to much, but use enough to get a fully joined seam and make sure to glue in small sections, don't get greedy with your seam joining, take your time. Watch the YouTube videos by Angelegend, he has so good tips and tricks with the 5 sec CA glue. Also scrap wiper pieces are a necessity with this glue. Cut off a ton of scrap foam triangles.
 
Yup that's the one. Cool deal. Do you have a dremel with sanding drums? I use my dremel religiously in every aspect of my building. In fact I actually have a power cord splitter that I keep my heat gun and dremel plugged in to permanently because I use them both so much. Lightly roughing the foam about to be glued really works like a champ. Don't have to do it, but something I found that helps tremendously. Also, that CA glue is sensitive to use, don't have much time to join pieces because if it hardens before joining, the glue will not adhere to itself, then you're forced to dremel that dried glue off and start over. So my take away, don't use to much, but use enough to get a fully joined seam and make sure to glue in small sections, don't get greedy with your seam joining, take your time. Watch the YouTube videos by Angelegend, he has so good tips and tricks with the 5 sec CA glue. Also scrap wiper pieces are a necessity with this glue. Cut off a ton of scrap foam triangles.
My dad should have a Dremel I can use. So I also downloaded that papekura you guys were talking about to get a good template to use and to size it right, but how do I size it? I see the dimensions of the cube it makes but for stuff to match my measurements, wouldn't it have to be on the pieces to do so? Plus how do I go about changing the dimensions so it fits me?

Also the ODST armory file for foam doesn't seem to have any chest plate part in it.
 
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My dad should have a Dremel I can use. So I also downloaded that papekura you guys were talking about to get a good template to use and to size it right, but how do I size it? I see the dimensions of the cube it makes but for stuff to match my measurements, wouldn't it have to be on the pieces to do so? Plus how do I go about changing the dimensions so it fits me?
So the easiest way I can help you on this. Measure the length in which the piece needs to be to fit your limb joint to joint. Some pieces you have to add a little more or a little less. Forearm for example, measure wrist to elbow and say you get 12 inches, that's your scale. But then you have to look at your character, if their armor piece has an elbow plate that extends past the joint you may need to add 1 inch and make it 13 inches overall length to get that game accuracy extension past the elbow. Whenever you change one demension factor, it automatically adjusts the other two demensions. I typically measure joint to joint on my body then closely examine how that armor looks on the character. The bigger you make one demension, it makes all your pieces bigger and vice versa if you go smaller. I also use the point to point measurement tool in pepakura religiously. Once I determine my scale length of a piece like a forearm of 12 inches, I then go in and measure all the demension using point to point on like the opening where my arm will slide through, then compare to the measurements of my actual forearm to get idea of how it will fit. Keep in mind that the the 3d model is only representing the surface plain of the armor for paper use. You have to factor in the thickness of your foam. So 12mm foam is going to essentially make your forearm opening 22mm smaller than the model will measure out in pepakura in a perfect world. Real world you can alter the piece and will need to fine tune the fitment during the build out, but I personally measure out as closely to my 3d model as possible so it's as close to the 3d model as possible for accuracy. Scaling is tricky, watch YouTube videos. Helmet and torso I think are by far the hardest to scale because you have to take in account so many considerations. But in the end, keep it simple, study how your character looks, measure your body and try to match where that armor will land on you and your character. Remember, pepakura measures to the absolute furthest dimension on length, width, and height. So many people forget that starting out. So take the forearm piece for example, It's measure the absolute longest point, absolutely widest point, and absolute tallest point. The widest point may be from the elbow plate to the inside crook of the elbow joint. Just take your time and play with the software and trust your measurements when you build out. So many times you will thing you messed us scale during building but if you just power through am trust your measurements were well thought out, generally it will be spot on, and you will have to save room for padding on certain pieces. Really, in short, try to scale that piece fit just like your game character as closely as possible, depending on your body type.
 
I got this for the contact adhesive if this is what your talking about (Glue I got). I believe that is what you guys were suggesting as the only other contact adhesive I saw was gorilla stuff or DAB which came in a glass bottle but appeared to have no way to apply it. If I need something else I can go back to my order and change something as it has not been processed and can still edit it.
Perfect! The DAB contact cement is just like every contact cement really... it is just in a tiny bottle. It comes with a brush that is attatched to the lid bottom of the cap for easy application, but whenever I used it, the liquid adhesive is on the top of the stem of the brush and flows down onto the brush, dripping the stuff everywhere. This isn't a big problem because you can normally wipe the cement on the side of the opening and it will drip back in, but the way this is built... it dont work too good. You cant scrape it off unless you put the brush back in the bottle, and doing that adds more CC to the brush, so you just did nothting.

Long story short: the stuff is hard to use and I have glued many a bottle permanently shut...

Also I cant remember if you know how to use the contact cement. I'm sure you already do, but you have to let it dry first, then stick the two parts perfectly together since you it is now stuck.
 
I didn’t know that’s how contact adhesives worked, I thought it be like normal glue, so that’s good to know.
It looks like I’ll be using the DFT template for that chest plate part as the armory file did not contain a foam template for one.
Now off to do some measurements and to work with the files I have.
 
My dad should have a Dremel I can use. So I also downloaded that papekura you guys were talking about to get a good template to use and to size it right, but how do I size it? I see the dimensions of the cube it makes but for stuff to match my measurements, wouldn't it have to be on the pieces to do so? Plus how do I go about changing the dimensions so it fits me?

Also the ODST armory file for foam doesn't seem to have any chest plate part in it.
Which era of ODST are you planning on making? The Halo 3 ODSTs use a unique chest rig, the Halo Reach ODSTs have the same base torso as the UNSC Army and Marines.
 

Give these files a look WinterHuntsman
 

Give these files a look WinterHuntsman
Those are the files I just downloaded. In the foam section there is no breastplate part that goes on to the torso section. I could probably use the pep file of the plate for a template if that’s what your suggesting.
 
I didn’t know that’s how contact adhesives worked, I thought it be like normal glue, so that’s good to know.
It looks like I’ll be using the DFT template for that chest plate part as the armory file did not contain a foam template for one.
Now off to do some measurements and to work with the files I have.
Don't confuse contact cement with super glue though. 5sec super glue is normal apply and join with in the 5 seconds. Dash was referring to Contact cement which is apply to both pieces, let dry then join. There is a difference. What you linked previously and what me and Turbo use is a CA superglue which is a join immediately type glue.
 
Don't confuse contact cement with super glue though. 5sec super glue is normal apply and join with in the 5 seconds. Dash was referring to Contact cement which is apply to both pieces, let dry then join. There is a difference. What you linked previously and what me and Turbo use is a CA superglue which is a join immediately type glue.
My bad. Never done any sort of costume construction ever so there being a difference like that is completely new for me. Glad I got the glue then, as I know how glue works
 
My bad. Never done any sort of costume construction ever so there being a difference like that is completely new for me. Glad I got the glue then, as I know how glue works
It's all good man, contact cement like barge is great stuff, some people swear by it like evil ted, it just takes fooooooreeever to assemble with where ted usually builds simpler designs like medieval armor and such. With halo armor, there is just so much more pieces and detail, I find the super glue is so much quicker to assemble with. It's strong by itself, but you do need to reinforce your seams on the inside the keep the foam from tearing at the seam. Most people backup the seams with hot glue, I personally love shoe goo for this as I have previously expressed its extreme strength in earlier discussions.
 
As stated by those above, i cannot stress enough how important it is to use sharp blades! I usually buy Techni Edge TE01-111 No. 11 Hobby Blades in large 100 packs off of Amazon and swap my blades every few pieces or sooner if its a sharp angle or large piece to avoid as much drag/ tearing of the foam as possible. They fit the standard #11 xacto blade perfectly.

As for when youre building, I recommend collecting as many reference images and screenshots as possible of multiple angles, the more the better! I usually jump into theater mode and take dozens of them when i build.

I usually will listen to audio books, music or throw on a show or something in the background to really help me get in the zone. Next thing i realize its 3am and i have a piece finished lol.

Take your time, have fun with it and dont be afraid to rebuild a piece if you aren’t happy with the size/ how it came out. Almost 100% of the time it will end up being an even better piece, and will probably be faster to make as youvebalready done it once. My last build i probably remade everything at least once trying to get it just right.
 
As stated by those above, i cannot stress enough how important it is to use sharp blades! I usually buy Techni Edge TE01-111 No. 11 Hobby Blades in large 100 packs off of Amazon and swap my blades every few pieces or sooner if its a sharp angle or large piece to avoid as much drag/ tearing of the foam as possible. They fit the standard #11 xacto blade perfectly.

As for when youre building, I recommend collecting as many reference images and screenshots as possible of multiple angles, the more the better! I usually jump into theater mode and take dozens of them when i build.

I usually will listen to audio books, music or throw on a show or something in the background to really help me get in the zone. Next thing i realize its 3am and i have a piece finished lol.

Take your time, have fun with it and dont be afraid to rebuild a piece if you aren’t happy with the size/ how it came out. Almost 100% of the time it will end up being an even better piece, and will probably be faster to make as youvebalready done it once. My last build i probably remade everything at least once trying to get it just right.

I 100% could not agree with you more on this statement. I literally follow these exact points myself, you hit the nail on the head! Sharpe blades, #11 exacto all the way! Change regularly, take your time use theater mode on game to capture every single reference pic you can at every angle. I have hundreds on my phone and I study them all. Have a good TV or music setup. I play TV shows and marvel movies in the background to help me focus. I have enough "junk" pile armor pieces that I could make another suit. Don't ever be afraid to rebuild because I can tell you right now you will. You'll never nail it on the first attempt, if you do, it's rare. Rebuilding almost guarantees a better product. Sometimes I would even do a fast trial build of a piece just to make sure it was doable and to practice before I would make my actual suit piece.
 
Thanks. I got the knife in the mail with a bunch of extra blades. Looks like my order won’t arrive until the 14th sadly. But I could start to print of and assemble the pep helmet in the meantime or get the templates ready.

I got a 12 hour music playlist of study music I’m using to study for my tests now that I’ll most likely play when working on this.
If I can get 2-3 parts of the armor done this summer I’ll be happy.
 
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