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[WIP] ODST Armor

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by llNomadll, Sep 27, 2010.

  1. llNomadll

    llNomadll New Member

    Hello guys! This is my first attempt at doing PePaKuRa craft thingy. And I have to say the folding part is much easier than I expected. I'm pretty happy with my first fold! (ODST Chest Plate)

    But I'm wondering what should I do next. I'm supposed to Aqua Resin or Polyurethane Resin the inside and outside. Then Fibreglass mat the inside. Do I really need a respirator to do this? I think a respirator is a controlled item in Singapore :( Is an M95 Mask sufficient?

  2. if you use aquaresin or smoothcast 320 on the inside, no respirator is required. But if you use resin or bondo, use a respirator. not sure about that specific respirator though. if it says it filters organic gases, its usually ok.
  3. kenster1000

    kenster1000 Jr Member

    looking great so far, very clean pep job. Keep up the good work.
  4. Agent Arizona

    Agent Arizona Well-Known Member

    Looking good man. When you resin as long as you cant smell it youll be ok. But you need somthing to filter the air you breath. Being outside is also a must.
  5. Sabre

    Sabre Jr Member

    Looking good! As those above me said if you use a poly resin
    A respirator and being in a well ventilTed space
    Is a must
    the fumes that you cannot smell are the ones that are hurtful to you! ALWAYS wear a resirator
  7. Agent Arizona

    Agent Arizona Well-Known Member

    Thats what i was saying. If your wearing a respirator and you cant smell it your fine.
  8. oh my bad. the way it was phrased it sounded like you meant that if you couldn't smell the fumes, then it was safe without a respirator. My bad.
  9. llNomadll

    llNomadll New Member

    Thank you for the encouraging comments guys! Gonna need that to complete the full set of armor because it can get really tiring! And I'm only at Paperkura Phase!

    Okay, In summary I can use Aqua-Resin, Polyurethane Resin or Smooth-Cast® 320 Liquid Plastic. To which I would Fiberglass the insides.

    Question 1) Can I use Smooth-Cast 320 with Fiberglass?
    Question 2) I want my plates to be as hard as possible. How do I achieve this?

    Oh, I completed my Stomach plate! :D
  10. llNomadll

    llNomadll New Member

    Progress Report:

    I just compelted my side plates so I am only left with the Belt and Torso folds for the Torso Area.


    I used Water Varnish with Polyurethane to harden my models but it didn't work. The paper became softer instead. Advice?
  11. llNomadll

    llNomadll New Member

    Finished the pep for the Shoulder Plates!


    Next I would be gunning to complete the torso area. Made the mistake of printing the shoulder plates but that's okay. Next I'm gonna be doing the Belt Plate, Groin Plate and L/R Hip Plates (Big thanks for Hugh Holder for the Hip Plates).

    I'm contemplating about making the Rib Plate. Hmmm.

    Good news, I found out where I can get Fiberglass Mat and Polyester Resin in my country! Hopefully the dude on the phone didn't burn me on "Oh yes yes, we sell both for $35!"
  12. llNomadll

    llNomadll New Member

    I just finished resin-ing my Chest Plate and waiting for it to cure. Feel kinda dumb cause I wasted about 10ml of Resin :( but its okay! I have to say I'm pretty excited right now! I hope nothing bad happens.
  13. llNomadll

    llNomadll New Member

    Did I Resin-ed my Chest Plate wrongly?

    Right after resin-ing

    4hrs later

    The biggest difference I see is that my paper became more TRANSPARENT. On top of that, My Chest Plate isn't hard :( I know I require the fiberglass cloth to reinforce it, but shouldn't it be at least A LITTLE BIT HARDER?

    Curing time is 4hrs isn't it?
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
  14. Hugh Holder

    Hugh Holder Well-Known Member

    Na, that's normal.

    You'll get that greasy transparent look when you have resin on both sides of the paper. Also, when the resin fully cures it gets that yellowish tint to it.

    And it's not going to be super hard, just slightly stiff. Almost like a very thin plastic that can hold it's shape and not much else. The rondo or fiberglass is what's going to make the part hard.

    At this point I typically mix rondo or smoothcast depending on how light I need the part to be (wearable or not) and slush the inside. Then I primer the part, so the transparent surface isn't distracting me. :)

    Looks good! Keep up the good work!
  15. Ehekky

    Ehekky Member

    Wow... nothing to add like tips and stuff, but those armor pieces and plates sure look great :D
  16. llNomadll

    llNomadll New Member

    Hugh Holder
    Thanks for clearing that up for me. I was starting to get worried because it took a real long time to cure. And that's a decent tip, I'd probably put that to good use :D Oh, and another thing: THANKS FOR THE HIP PLATES! I was looking around for them to no avail, until I saw your super thread :D

    Appreciate your kind compliments! Saw your Halo weapons they look pretty darn good too. How long did you take to pep the MA5c Assault Rifle?

    So I just finished Fiberglassing my Chest Plate I used about 1 - 2 layers depending on which part of the plate. But to my horror, I saw warping -I think. HELP!! The sides of the Plate started to fold upwards or somewhat. How do I fix this?! If I'm already screwed, how do I prevent this from happening in the future?
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
  17. llNomadll

    llNomadll New Member

    I forgot to upload the pics of the warping. so here goes:

  18. leadfarmer01

    leadfarmer01 New Member

    One thing that I have noticed is that large flat pieces do not get hard with just resin, and not much difference with fiberglass cloth or matting (Halo also has a lot of these parts). These areas require much more attention but that does not necessarily mean add a bunch of resin (might make it more fragile) I always back it with sintra or some kind of hard plastic. Round areas or corners become more reinforce when resined so no worries there. Hope this helped.
  19. Ehekky

    Ehekky Member

    Thanks!, I don't know if you've already read it here, but it took me about a week, maybe 1 and a half

    ps. I used the pep file from the Halo Costuming Wiki (not the HD version)
  20. llNomadll

    llNomadll New Member

    What is Sintra? Hmm. Okay, so you back it with a hard plastic right, how exactly do you do that? Do you glue it there or..? :-S

    Yup! I did. Check your thread ;)
  21. AceSnip3r

    AceSnip3r New Member

    Looking good man, nice job. ^^
  22. llNomadll

    llNomadll New Member

    Thank you for your kind words sir!

    Okay I have very very bad news. The minor warping on my ODST chestplate became worst after I filled it with Polyester Resin+Talcum Powder sludge. What did I learn from this, ALWAYS REINFORCE THE FLAT PARTS. I assume that there's no repair for this?

    And I think I did a terrible job at the "bondo-ing" stage. I've searched around and I couldn't find any tutorial on how to bondo. They're all very vague. Can someone give me advice? I don't wana mess up my next armor piece.

    P1010928.jpg P1010927.jpg
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017
  23. Hugh Holder

    Hugh Holder Well-Known Member

    Hey llNomadll nice progress!

    You are welcome on the hip plate, hope it works out for you.

    This warping isn't the worst, I wouldn't panic. There are ways of getting your flat surface back, depending on how thick the part is now. If it is thin enough you might just be able to simply cut a small triangle shape on each end of where you want to bend the piece back.

    As for bondo, everyone has their own way of doing it. And a lot of people like to cake the stuff on the part which is probably the best way to set yourself up for days of sanding. The best tip I can give you is only use bondo in very small batches, and as the last resort if you can't get the smooth surface you are looking for.

    I always resin, harden, sand, then primer before I even touch bondo. While it does make things pretty and smooth, there is quite a bit of work that is required to get it pretty and smooth. See, when you cake bondo onto your part you are basically encasing your armor part in a big, uneven, pit riddled rock. Then you have to sand and chisel at that part to get to your old shape back. And THEN, because of applying the bondo on the part unevenly you are left with tons of pits and craters that need spot putty to fix anyway or another layer of bondo entirely. I don't really understand why this is the standard, it just seems like a lot of unnecessary work.

    Fortunately, we are making armor. And with this style of armor there are a lot of clean, flat faces. Though some guys will hail bondo as having that ultimate high grit finish for your paint, you can still sand cured resin down (it works better for me when I sand by hand).

    Look at the part that you will be working on first and notice it's contours and flat surfaces. Notice the parts that the paper card stock is already giving you the smooth surface you need. You will notice that you can get a flat surface by merely focusing some sanding on areas where two pieces of the pepakura cut out meet. I don't know if that makes sense to anybody?

    I always take time to just look at the part I'm making in 3d. Before I start unfolding I begin to pick out the areas that I already want unfolded on my page and which areas I will be ok with sanding. I already know where the paper is going to overlap and be glued together and where I'm going to need to focus some sanding. Basically it is about building smarter models.

    Your chest piece had a small warp because it was a 'bubble' object without any reinforcement for the broad flat areas. It looks great, and honestly I wouldn't be too concerned with it. But if the outer walls would have bee just a tiny bit wider it would have added a decent amount of shape support.

    To other 3d modelers: While building objects in bubble format is quick and easy you ever notice why building support struts with the model is becoming more and more common? It's because the card stock is not stiff enough to support it's shape on its own with these kinds of parts. You can build support struts to be included with your model, but that sort of thing gets in the way during the hardening process imo. These kinds of objects can support their own shape if you simply break it up into blocks. The ODST chest plate I built is in 3 parts, and I know that some will argue that the chest plate is one object, well that's what you can make it after you harden and sand it :p

    The beauty is that the chest plate is very sturdy and I don't have to worry about warping the part because the individual pieces are supporting their own shape by remaining smaller and when the parts are glued together it only doubles the strength of the part while it's still paper.

    I guess it more or less comes down to your own preference in building. Most people want a quick and simple paper build to start from and do the bulk of the work after. I would rather spend more time during the pepping phase to ensure that the parts look the best they can before I even start resining.

    Keep up the good work man, and I look forward to seeing more progress on your project!
  24. Telemus

    Telemus Jr Member

    Looks great man keep up the great work!
  25. llNomadll

    llNomadll New Member

    Thank you sir! I'm not sure how I'mma keep up because I'm really stuck at the bondo-ing and sanding part XD

    Hugh Holder
    Yup, your hip plates are DEFINITELY working out well for me :D
    Anyway, I'm pretty new to this so I'm not really sure about alot you're talking about.

    The triangles you spoke of, do you mean like cutting one huge isosceles triangle with a large angle at the tip (refer to picture) so I can bend it to a lower, more flattened level?

    Oh, alright, so I should bondo a piece part by part? Meaning, like left section, right section then center section? So as to get it as even as possible?

    And in my next projects, I should actually resin, cure, primer it, sand, THEN bondo? and By bondo you mean, Bondo-ing ONLY the parts that needs filling/smoothen-ing? Yeah, me too, I normally focus extensively on my pepping so as to prevent anything biting my butt in the future. Because this sanding part is killing me, ESPECIALLY the talcum dust.

    Lessons Learnt
    1) Bondo (or in my case resin+talcum) in small amounts and on places that needs to be smoothened out
    2) Work in small batches
    3) When resining/fiberglassing/bondo-ing make sure my model is supported/reinforced to prevent warping
    4) Make Resin+talcum composite LESS thicker. Its really uneven because of the thickness of the putty mixture
    5) Work in this order Resin > Cure > Sand > Primer > Sand > Bondo
    6) Start shaping bondo BEFORE it fully cures

    Gosh, Thanks for your lengthy post Hugh. Learnt alot and I hope I'd do a better job in the future. AND ALSO HOPEFULLY Salvage my warped Chest Plate. But I'm gonna need your guidance!
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017

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