Xtreme Tactics' Bravo-21 / Tarkov Wip

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

Hey everybody!



Well, as I anounced in my MJOLNIR Mk.VI thread, I have put that project on hold. Why? Because Me and my friend who made the bet (Just a refresher-Me and him made a bet that he would pay me $100.00 and buy me Halo 3:ODST if I made a full "Blank" costume by the reliece of Halo 3:ODST) Now, he said a Master Chief costume, BUT, 3 days later he said a ODST costume. I totally forgot about that, and when I had my Torso, Shin, and Thigh all peped, he reminded me. So, here I am today with my new project well under way. The Weta ODST.



For the helmet, I used NZ-TK's original Halo 3 ODST Helmet. Was it suicidal or very hard to build? Not even close. Why? Because I re-unfolded it in a smoother way.



Here it is peped and ready for resin:

Now, right now, I have two coats of resin on it, and I may add a third:

Now, instead of the way everybody does their armour with Fiberglass and Resin, Im taking a differant approach. The Hot Glue Method.



I got about 1000 high temp. Hot Glue sticks for only $50.00!

I also have the Weta Battle Rifle in progress. If you want to check it out, heres the link: "WETA Battle Rifle WIP" Thread.



Well, tell me what you think. I will update soon with more armour peped, the main chest plate resined and the helmet hot glued soon.



Constructive criticism please!



CHEERS!

 

[DutchDude]

That helmet certainly looks smooth to me^^
I like how you prefolded those groves in, it saves the use of a dremel (any chance on releasing the file? )
Keep it up

-DD

 

[Yur Ry]

Nice work on the helmet

Im working in my own ODSt helmet. doesent look as goood as yours but im pretty proud of it.

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

That helmet certainly looks smooth to me^^
I like how you prefolded those groves in, it saves the use of a dremel (any chance on releasing the file? )
Keep it up

-DD

Oh no, its not my file, its NZ-TK's. I contacted him about reliecing my version of the unfold, but he said no.

Just a warning though. In NZ-TK's original file, the unfold isn't that great (too many tinny parts). Thats why I re-unfolded it so there were only 62 parts and it was smoother and easer to build.

Also, does anybody know the effect of Bondo when it is applied dirrectly to dried hot glue? Does the Bondo "burn" through the hot glue?

Thanks for the comments, keep them comming!

 

[S1l3nt V1p3r]

Ohhh, I like the helmet! Great job on it!

 

[box o crayons]

no bondo doesnt eat away hot glue at all but fiberglass if not carefull will heat up the hot glue and it might warp so you have to make sure to put light coats of resin on before glassin it fully

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

Ok, good. I have nothing to worry about in that area. Since im not using fiberglass (Im using fiberglass resin though, but no fiberglass sheet/matt).

I have had a set back (Fathers Day) so I will be hot glueing and sanding tomorrow.

CHEERS, and wish me luck!

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

Ok, update time!



I have bad news, I have ruined my helmet . It turns out that hut glue, and 108 degree F weather don't mix. The helmet before the desaster was fine when I finished the hot glueing. Then I left it out to dry for a few hours because the glue wasn't drying properly. So I come back after 3 hours, and this is what is waiting for me:

Now, I figured "Hey, no biggy. I can just Bondo this, and put padding on the inside and nobody will ever notice." Well, that turned into a huge problem. After I applied 2 coats of Bondo waiting 2 hours between each coat (Bondo dries fast!) I figured out that the Bondo was FUBAR before I even added the hardiner. The expiry date (Yea, there was one) read 20/09/07! Yea, September 20, 2007! So, now the Bondo isn't drying properly, and I decided to scrap the helmet:

After calming down, Just now, I started my new helmet. Its the same model by NZ-TK with some modds to the unfold, but this time, I forgot to print out the numbers! So, now that im out of cardstock, I figured "Hey, oh well, I'll just try it and see how it goes." Sofar, its working well (I only have 2 pieces cut, scored and glued togeather so far):

So, here I am now, working on the helmet, and I figured "Forget the hot glue method, Im doing fiberglass and resin:

The good news, I figured out its cheeper to go this way. I also figured out its almost impossible to sand hot glue, and fiberglass and resin are although hard to sand, can be sande.



Well, wish me luck on my second ODST helmet.



CHEERS!

 

[S1l3nt V1p3r]

Good luck with the new helmet!

 

[chipscolaman]

Isnt that kinda the worst thing imaginable for a pep helmet?

It's a real shame, man...



I bet your new pep is gonna be even better



I love ODST, It migh be my next project!



ps yay 200th post^^

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

Well, got the whole darn chest area and almost ready for resin (Have to add some more support struts to make sure there is very little/no warping.

Tell me what you think. Next I will be resining and fiberglassing these pieces. While the resin is drying, I will work on peping other parts of the armour.



I have every piece scaled and printed ready for peping right now so expect this project to start flying soon.



I also have modded the armour status signature for myself to better adapt to an ODST:

NOTE-Signature not for public use. Use of 2D ODST signature only for Xtreme TACTICS 101 (Myself-Creator) and rednapx (co-creator).



What do you think? I havent contacted anybody about getting this done yet, but would anybody here want this as an armour status signature? Something like an Armour Status Signature generator but for an ODST as an option?



EDIT:



I have an update. I have the right shin peped!



Pictures:

Tell me what you think.



CHEERS!

 

[S1l3nt V1p3r]

I'm loving the fast work! And OMG, how do you even know what pieces go where without Edge ID? You're crazy!

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

ARE YOU KIDDING ME! The edge ID is to confusing! I don't like following numbers, I just go by instinct. Also, the edge ID slowes me down...

 

[S1l3nt V1p3r]

ARE YOU KIDDING ME! The edge ID is to confusing! I don't like following numbers, I just go by instinct. Also, the edge ID slowes me down...

You're insane, man! I never do a project without Edge ID.

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

I have one word to say to you... Oh wait, im outta words... Dang... But seriously, you should try it sometime. its fun, you know, living on the edge not carring what happens :cool.

 

[S1l3nt V1p3r]

I have one word to say to you... Oh wait, im outta words... Dang... But seriously, you should try it sometime. its fun, you know, living on the edge not carring what happens :cool.

At least I'd have to try it on a not-so-hard-to-do-model.

Perhaps the Groin and Butt plate?

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

At least I'd have to try it on a not-so-hard-to-do-model.

Perhaps the Groin and Butt plate?

You do that ... LOL!!1!11!oneone!11!11!!!one!1!1

 

[bobbio555]

Wow! Awesome work, but that sucks that the hot glue died I've tried it on a couple of pieces and it didn't work out so great either lol

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

Thanks for the comment.



Ok, I have a question. I was going over some options I had for making the armour solid, and I came up with 2 final options I liked. Resin and Fiberglass, or Slush Casting. Now, depending on what I figure out price wise, I may do either.



I was thinking of getting 1 gallon kit of Smooth-Cast 320 or 321(parts A& :coolfor the job. Now, The thing is, I have to figure out how much of this I would need, and how pricy it would be. Right now, for just one 1 gallon kit, im looking at somewhere around the $120.00-$150.00 range with shipping/handling and tax. Now, depending on how much I may need, I could end up using anywhere from 1-3 gallons of this stuff.



Now, the other option, Fiberglass and Resin, may run a quite a bit more expencive. Im thinking of about 8-10 1M squared sheets of fiberglass, each sheet running for about $10.00 and about 4-5 cans of resin, running for about $17.00 each.



Now, for those of you who have done both methods, what one method would you recommend? I know that both options can be pain in the butt, nut I wan't to hear your opinion.



Thanks in advance.



CHEERS!

 

[Remraf]

I have done both. And I would absolutely recommend slushcasting as the main strengthening component. Using standard standard 300, I have slush casted 2 helmets and a MKVI FS highdef chestpiece, and -love- the results. But, don't totally disregard fiberglass. The main resaon I hate it is because I can't ever get it into all the detail, whereas the liquid Smooth-Cast can get itself into the tiniest crease. But, on smooth areas, especially the edges near openings, can be strengthened with fiberglass prior to casting because it's hard to get the plastic all the way to the edges anyway. Also, when the plastic has cured, the details on the inside are smoothed out, and fiberglass can be applied more easily if you want more strength.