Xtreme Tactics' Bravo-21 / Tarkov Wip

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Remraf said:
I have done both. And I would absolutely recommend slushcasting as the main strengthening component. Using standard standard 300, I have slush casted 2 helmets and a MKVI FS highdef chestpiece, and -love- the results. But, don't totally disregard fiberglass. The main resaon I hate it is because I can't ever get it into all the detail, whereas the liquid Smooth-Cast can get itself into the tiniest crease. But, on smooth areas, especially the edges near openings, can be strengthened with fiberglass prior to casting because it's hard to get the plastic all the way to the edges anyway. Also, when the plastic has cured, the details on the inside are smoothed out, and fiberglass can be applied more easily if you want more strength.



So how much Smooth-Cast 300 would you reccomend to use? Like, how thick should it be?



EDIT: Ok, I just figured out if I lined the whole costume in roughtly 2cm of the smooth-cast 300 on the inside, it would probably take two 1 gallon sets, and a starter set of smooth-cast 300. Should I use less smooth-cast 300 on the inside of the armour?



Thanks in advance!
 
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2cm is a little much, i think. Mine probably averages 0.5 cm, and in some parts where it pooled up while drying it's just over 1 cm. This tutorialis very helpful, and it recomends a thickness of 1/8 to 1.4 of an inch (about 0.3 to 0.6 cm). If you want to go thicker, it's up to you. I would recommend using the entirety of your trial size kit on your helmet, and see how thick that turns out. that should help you get an idea.
 
Ok, So just because I HATE using Bondo, I will go with 1cm thickness (1.3-1.5cm in some areas because of pooling and I need to sand more in that area.) I will probably pick up a trial kit, and do a few pieces of the main body (with NZ-TK's helmet, Im going to wait until I have the hang of it first).



Thanks for the tips, and I think if my parents are OK with it (99.9% sure-they didn't like the idea of fiberglass and resin to begin with).
 
Sorry for the late update, but I had to pep NZ-TK's helmet 2 times to get it right. The first time I forgot to scale it and when I put the last piece in it was far to small, so I had to re-pep it at the correct scale.



Sooo...Here it is, no numbers!



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Im also peping the second shin:



DSCN1565.jpg




DSCN1564.jpg




Constructive critism please.



CHEERS!
 
I agree with Remraf, 2cm is way too much, it'll weigh a ton.I would recommend slushing it thinly, and doing several coats until you get a strength that you like. The 320 slushes better than the 300 in my experience, it thickens up more gradually. A thickness of 3-4mm will be quite strong enough. Using the equivalent of one trial kit on your helmet is a good idea, that's how much it takes for me to do a MkVi helmet, and it's plenty strong enough. I'd say initially buy a gallon kit and see how far that gets you, then if you run out, you'll have a pretty good idea how much it will take to finish.



It's looking good though, hope you get it done in time!
 
Im going to use a 1cm thickness for the Smooth-Cast 305 (yes, im switching to 305). This is only because I am going to sand all of the cardstock off, and try to not use Bondo.



Also, for the 1 Gallon kit, do you get 0.5 Gallons of Part A, and 0.5 Gallons of Part B, or do you get 1 Gallon of Part A, and 1 Gallon of Part B?



Thanks in advance.



Cheers!
 
You get 1 gallon of each part, 2 gallons total. Just layer it up thinly each time until you reach the thickness you want, trying to get a really thick coat of resin in one go is asking for a disaster. Hope it goes well for you. :)
 
Good, so I may have to buy less Smooth-Cast 305.



What im planing on is slush casting every armor part other then the shins, boot tips, and torso piece. For those parts I will fiberglass, resin and bondo them just to save some money on shipping costs for the SC 305 and what not.
 
What kind of glue do you use, I tried hot glue before, but it left lines and bubble of glue sticking out of the creases. Please respond, cheers.
 
Underdogg13 said:
What kind of glue do you use, I tried hot glue before, but it left lines and bubble of glue sticking out of the creases. Please respond, cheers.



I use wood glue. If you use a small amount on the flap, you only have to hold the piece in place for 10 seconds before it bonds. Its very easy to use, and its not frustraiting at all for me.
 
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Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:
I use wood glue. If you use a small amount on the flap, you only have to hold the piece in place for 10 seconds before it bonds. Its very easy to use, and its not frustraiting at all for me.



Cheers.
 
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nice work on the pep so far. With the armor, ive just noticed something that you did that is the same as I did. with the left and right shoulder pads, they shouldn't be as tall as the center chest piece, but like me you kept them the same scale. I am not working on making them from foam and covering them in fabric, but if you look at the weta pictures the pads are smaller by probably an inch or so.
 
mightymints said:
nice work on the pep so far. With the armor, ive just noticed something that you did that is the same as I did. with the left and right shoulder pads, they shouldn't be as tall as the center chest piece, but like me you kept them the same scale. I am not working on making them from foam and covering them in fabric, but if you look at the weta pictures the pads are smaller by probably an inch or so.



Actually, the main chest plate and main chest pads are scaled perfactly in proportion to eachother. It just doesn't look that way in the picture.



Ok, anyway, I have a picture-less update. Since my camera is WIA at the moment, I thought I would tell you guys and galls whats up.



I have decided to do the butt packs using the foam from a roll-out foam mat used for camping. That will also be used for the shoulder straps, padding for the armour, and a few other things.



The 2 stomach pads are actually modeled wrong. They modeled well height wise, but width wise not very well. I will be scratch building them from foam aswell.



I have the torso piece peped and ready for resin-pictures comming soon.



I have scaled and printed every part of the armour. If you want to know how I got this far with perfact scaling, check out My "How To Scale Your Armour-Tutorial" Thread



I have calculated the basic ammount of Smooth-Cast 320 (Switching to 320) and founf that I can do the whole costume with about 2x 1 gallon kits.



Thats all I can update for now.



Cheers!
 
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Great work so far dude :D , one question... where did u got the pep files for this pieces?



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been looking on halowiki and cant find them. Thanks
 
The belt plate is the one from the original Weta ODST pep file thread. Its just re-unfolded and smoothed alot. The groin plate is from 1ManBattalion's thread located "Here".



Good luck on your WIP!
 
UPDATE with pictures!



Ok, I decided to make every part of the chest armour that is covered in canvas with foam. I will be bicking up come black canvas for the parts later this week. The foam parts are scratch built, not using the pep files for referance due to some inaccuracies that kept bugging me.



Pictures:



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I also adjusted the size of the stomach packs because the scale for them is off by quite a bit:



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The next time I update this thread all of the foam parts should be near compleation. They only need the covers, and a few details here and there, so It should be soon.



I will keep you all updated.



Comments greatly apreciated.



Cheers!
 
As ever you´re doing a great job Xtreme... Keep it up and remember you´ve got at least one 405th-er following your steps closely.



Again thanx for the many much help you´re giving me!

Looking great!



The only thing is, are you sure you´re not going to harden the foam??? I know the stuff, and its pretty susceptical to breaking and or deforming easely with just wearing it without something to strenghten it up!



Take care also with the fact that Resin and such products EAT RIGHT THROUGH this stuff. (at least that´s what they do here in Europa!!!).



P.s. How much do you pay for a galleon (4.5Liters??) of both smoothcast 300 components?



I know that here in Spain i pay about 270$ U.S. for 2.5 kg of BOTH products!!!! No $#!Tting you!



Good luck!
 
TK-3350 said:
As ever you´re doing a great job Xtreme... Keep it up and remember you´ve got at least one 405th-er following your steps closely.



Again thanx for the many much help you´re giving me!

Looking great!



The only thing is, are you sure you´re not going to harden the foam??? I know the stuff, and its pretty susceptical to breaking and or deforming easely with just wearing it without something to strenghten it up!



Take care also with the fact that Resin and such products EAT RIGHT THROUGH this stuff. (at least that´s what they do here in Europa!!!).



P.s. How much do you pay for a galleon (4.5Liters??) of both smoothcast 300 components?



I know that here in Spain i pay about 270$ U.S. for 2.5 kg of BOTH products!!!! No $#!Tting you!



Good luck!



Actually, The foam I used (Its cut from a sleeping matt for camping from Wal-Mart) is farely high density foam that will not take form over much of anything. It isn't easy to press down (you have to stand on it to press it down a bit) and its not worth re-inforcing.



As for the Smooth Cast 320, it runs for about $100.00 CAD around here for 1 gallon. I will have to use about 1 1/20-2 gallons of the stuff on my costume. + Shipping (about $50.00 from Toronto) im looking at about $250.00 for what I need. But its worth it because you don't have to use much/any bondo or fiberglass. The Smooth Cast stuff it totally worth it because its strong, and requires far less work to make the piece you are doing.



Thanks for the comment, and whenever you need more help, just PM me, and I will help you.



Cheers!
 
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