Props A Real Combat Knife

[Vrogy]

Blade will be hardened tool steel.
Handle will be cast aluminum and black plasti-dip.


Yes, you can easily kill things with this.
I think I'll see if it can stab through a car door when it's done.

 

[Crossfire]

Awesome
cant wait for the final product.
are you planning on selling them?

 

[Vrogy]

Awesome
cant wait for the final product.
are you planning on selling them?

Eh, not really selling them. Too much sweat in this.
edit: changed my mind. too poor not to sweat.

 

[Silverzippo93]

 

[PillowFire]

next thread: a real assault rifle.

lol nice job, must be hard to work with metal.

 

[Fragclone]

now a sheild lol

 

[23Magnum]

TOOL STEEL? That thing probably weighs quite a bit then, hehe. What'd you cut that with a plasma cutter or just a regular torch? A least you won't be making many dents or nicks in the blade using tool steel. Can't wait to see the final product.

-Magnum

 

[Razgriz]

Wow...

 

[Spartan 161]

Looking at the blade you are cutting it out of, I bet it is in the L6 category. Nice stuff for blade making. Looking good. I used to make knives and can offer you an excellent quench formula for your tempering if your interested. Man I miss making blades....

 

[Vrogy]

TOOL STEEL? That thing probably weighs quite a bit then, hehe. What'd you cut that with a plasma cutter or just a regular torch? A least you won't be making many dents or nicks in the blade using tool steel. Can't wait to see the final product.

-Magnum

It's heavy for a blade, but not that heavy overall. I used an oxyacetylene torch, you can see it in one of the pics..

Looking at the blade you are cutting it out of, I bet it is in the L6 category. Nice stuff for blade making. Looking good. I used to make knives and can offer you an excellent quench formula for your tempering if your interested. Man I miss making blades....

Sure, heat-treating advice is welcomed. A machinist and swordsmith friend is helping me make this, but more info is always good.


Anyone have suggestions for a sheath? I need to keep it oiled or out of the air. I was thinking black leather and plastic, or maybe painted lexan fastened together with pop-rivets and spacers.

 

[Spartan 161]

For a project like this I would recommend a Kydex sheath for aesthetics. Its a futuristic combat blade why not go with Kydex and make a futuristic sheath. I can provide you with a great web site that has some great tuts with Kydex.

As for leather, there is a problem when dealing with Carbon steels and leather. If you leave it in the sheath for long periods of time the Chemicals in the leather tend to corrode the blade no matter how oiled it may be. So if you go the leather rout you may want to make a wall display for the blade and sheath and just keep it oiled and out of the sheath.

 

[Vrogy]

For a project like this I would recommend a Kydex sheath for aesthetics. Its a futuristic combat blade why not go with Kydex and make a futuristic sheath. I can provide you with a great web site that has some great tuts with Kydex.

As for leather, there is a problem when dealing with Carbon steels and leather. If you leave it in the sheath for long periods of time the Chemicals in the leather tend to corrode the blade no matter how oiled it may be. So if you go the leather rout you may want to make a wall display for the blade and sheath and just keep it oiled and out of the sheath.

I checked, and it is indeed L6, supposedly Scandinavian in origin.

 

[Garland]

Nice! Good to see a real knife being made. Are you making a couple, or just the one?

 

[Vrogy]

Nice! Good to see a real knife being made. Are you making a couple, or just the one?

Probably just the one, but I guess the double crossed ones do kind of imply dual-wielding. Maybe sometime in the future, I really only need one right now, it's going to be my utility knife, staying on my hip or in my car.

 

[Spartan 161]

I checked, and it is indeed L6, supposedly Scandinavian in origin.

Thought so, my eyes may be going but my mind is not. Good steel. Hope the Quench formula I sent you works out. I have used it many times, just have to remember after the quench to temper it to remove brittleness. L-6 calls for an oil quench but I have used the formula I sent you on L-6 and it has worked fine for me. Quench Temp 1450-1550 degrees*F for L-6. 300-500 degrees*F to temper L-6, should get you a Rockwell hardness of 63-55. Good news is L-6 has very low distortion in heat treating so for a large blade like this its good. Only down side is it wont have the flexibility of a spring steel so don't go prying with it.

Here is one of the best web sites for a tut on Kydex sheaths. As always if the link doesn't work copy and paste it into your browser. Hope this helps.

http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast...s_tutorials.htm

Oh by the way, I Like the twin burner forge you have in the background.

 

[tonsofhoopla]

next thread: a real assault rifle.

lol nice job, must be hard to work with metal.

LOL, i could see that happening.
BTW Fantastic work Vrogy, keep it up.

-Justin

 

[Vrogy]

I hand-milled and carved the handle out of pink insulation foam.


The blade tang is almost full, and was notched for extra hold. Also, widens towards end; the handle would need to be cracked in half for the blade to come out.


The blade and foam had sprues added, and were buried in specially formulated sand.


The pour was kind of odd, but didn't turn out too horribly.


Then we ground off the defects.


Emory was attacked by the spill.



Next up is drilling the grip pattern, maybe rounding the pommel and hilt, and coating the handle with plasti-dip.

 

[Panton6]

HOLY CRUD

 

[Sean Bradley]

A++++


Nicely done... now how 'bout a Stainless Steel version?

 

[Spartan118]

Very very nice dude...That looks like it hurt to. Would it be balanced for throwing lol? j/w.