Crawl, Walk, Run, and Sprint!

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Jason 078

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Hi, my name is Jason and I am a costumer.

*Hi, Jason*

Ever since I enlisted in the Army back in 2000, I have always heard that you have to learn in certain steps. Those steps are going from the least complicated to the most complicated. For my adventures in costuming, I have seen that there is a similar learning curve. So, that is why I am choosing to begin where I am beginning.

I have worked in sintra enough to be able to crack out a set of custom Mandalorian armor in a couple of hours, shaped and painted. Sintra is one of the easiest materials I have ever worked with. It can be bent on a straight edge if you score it, it takes to bondo like fiberglass without the toxic materials, and it can be shaped into practically anything with just a pot of boiling water. Not to mention, PVC glue is very easy to find.

Like many other costumers, I have a bit of a costuming A.D.D. I see something new and I want to build it. So, when I began another play through of Mass Effect, I decided to take a look at the Mass Effect costumes that were out there. Well, that eventually led me to Evil FX and his foam N7 armor. Needless to say, I was blown away.

I saw this simple foam, which I have ignored as it sat idle on my Arms Room floor and in the gymnasium, turned into a masterpiece. My first thought was that it was far beyond my skill set to build anything along the lines of those works of art. Then I actually read his tutorial and build log.

Well, that build log started me looking for more sources for how to build costumes with this and other forms of foam. Eventually, that led me to the 405th. Now, I am no stranger to Halo costumers. A member of my garrison (501st) is a Mark V Spartan (though he is also kind of short). He said that he purchased his ABS armor on fleabay and it cost him a total of $1500. Yeah, after having sunk more money that I spent on my first two cars combined into building a Darth Vader, I was not willing to pay that much for the same cr@ppy material that Stormtrooper armor is made of.

One of my favorite suits of armor is the Spartan armor drawn by Alessando Baldasseroni for Halo Wars (the Mk IV). When I began looking at this armor, I found it in pepakura. I’ve never seen pepakura before, but this intrigued me.

So, now I have my sights set on a full suit of Mk IV Spartan Armor from Halo Wars (specifically, trying to recreate the high detail armor from the graphics I provided above), not to mention other non-Halo costumes. However, I know that my skills are non-existent at the moment to be able to accomplish this task, so I am setting myself up to learn.

In all of my military training, from basic training to NCO school, I have always heard that the learning curve happens in four simple steps: Crawl, Walk, Run, Sprint. Start simple to gain the basic skills, move to another level to build upon those skills, up again to gain mastery of those skills, and then take off. Well, I have set up a small number of costumes to give me those skills.

Crawl
The simplest foam costume that I can think of is a suit of custom Mandalorian armor from the Star Wars Galaxies MMO. However, I will be using Pepakura files to do so, because of the specific folds and bends of certain pieces. The armor itself is the simplest part, basic plates that are cut and formed. The and shoulders need to be rolled and closed with a little detail. Then there is the helmet, which will be the most difficult part of the build. Finally, I will be building the jetpack as it is seen in the game (lower detail than those currently available). The weapons will be custom modifications of weapons that closely resemble those my character carried in-game.

Walk
The second suit that I will be doing is a set of N7 Armor from Mass Effect 2. It will build upon the flat armor creation, but will emphasize the inlaid details of the armor. It will help to build the foam skills, lighting skills, and harness/attachment skills necessary for my future projects. The helmet is more advanced than the Mando bucket, but that is what I am doing this for. Finally, the weapon will be a sliced rifle built out of sintra and foam with included lights.

Run
For the third phase of my armoring project, I will be making a full set of Republic Commando Armor from Pepakura. I am planning on doing this for two reasons. It will teach me the necessary Pep skills to get curves on hard armored pieces as well as the skills to attach a suspension system to 3D/boxy parts. Not to mention, it will build upon the skills I have previously learned. Finally, it will give me experience with Pepping a weapon in higher detail that is not sliced.

Sprint
With all of the skills that I have acquired, I will be making a set of Mk IV Mjolnir Armor from Halo Wars. This will be the most difficult set as I plan to make it in two layers. The main armor will be pepakura sintra and include all of the details and intricacies that you have all come to know and love (including a double visor). The under suit will be a custom design and made in a similar way to the Mass Effect armor but with a ¼-inch foam material sewn to the under suit. The under suit will also include a built-in suspension system for the armor. The helmet will be similar to the other suits, but with a little more attention to detail. The weapon, a MA5B Assault Rifle made of pepakura sintra and foam, will also include all the bells and whistles (by that I mean high detailed and lit).

I would appreciate your feedback as to this project list. I think I have included all of the necessary skills that I will need to learn. As you can see, I am also a consummate planner, so you will see a great number of WIPs in this thread. I’ll keep all but the Mjolnir in this thread to avoid the muss and fuss that can come from cross-genre builds. However, it will not be any less detailed.

I also plan on making sets of the previous costumes and selling them to supplement my costuming supplies and expenses. Not scalping anyone, just fair market costs. However, I will not sell incomplete or sloppy parts of my work.

So, what do you think? Any comments or criticism will be helpful for me as this is kind of new.
 
*Hi, Jason*

Yep, that and...

I have always heard that the learning curve happens in four simple steps: Crawl, Walk, Run, Sprint. Start simple to gain the basic skills, move to another level to build upon those skills, up again to gain mastery of those skills, and then take off. Well, I have set up a small number of costumes to give me those skills.

... there's an alternative to your plan: Sprint, fail, start over, repeat. Armour consists of a lot of pieces and you can pick up a lot of knowledge as you go. I would never recommend building any other piece than the one you want just for practice.
 
I would never recommend building any other piece than the one you want just for practice.
I'm actually not. I have wanted to do these costumes for a while. I just haven't had the tools necessary until I found the foam method. Now, I can learn as I go.
 
Duct Tape Mannequin (Picture Heavy)

The first thing that is necessary, from everywhere I have seen, is to make a duct tape dummy. Well, since I already am a duct tape dummy, I am going to make a mannequin with duct tape. I have never done this before because sintra is relatively simple to form to a body (to an extent). You just heat it in boiling water and push it onto a piece of clothing. Well, with the temperatures necessary to mold the foam, that is not going to be an option.

Materials:
● 4 rolls of duct tape
● Painter’s coverall
● A pair of scissors
● Two pairs of socks
● PVC pipes and fittings
● 20-pounds of poly fill
● One wife to assist
● Three hours

First of all, I am using a painter’s disposable coverall. I do not have any long-sleeve clothing that I am willing to lose and the painter’s coverall provides a good base for the tape. I would like to have found one with a hood, but that was not an option at my local store. So, to protect my neck, I cut the sleeve off of an old BDU t-shirt and used that as a temporary neck seal. I pulled a pair of socks over my hands and feet, over the coverall, to protect my skin and give another base. As I look back on it, I would definitely have worn them under the coverall because the tape didn’t want to attach to it.

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The first thing you are going to want to do is tape the socks down to prevent them from moving as the tape is wrapped. This is important as duct tape does some very not-nice things to skin. I also taped around the neck seal for the same reason.

Note: please excuse the scruffiness. My face is an energy-saving model and is only shaved when necessary.

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Due to lack of other hands, there are few photos of the process. However, I can assure you that it was quite interesting. We used 18-inch strips of tape as it is less constrictive than rolling it around the body. However, as you can see, it still does well to show the contours.

After the initial wraps, my wife also taped my wrists and cut my fingers free to hold the tape and help her with the lower body (though I was still immobile). The majority of the tape is horizontal, except for the crotch which is vertical.

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After an hour and most of my body, being covered, I enjoyed my last little bit of freedom. After this, I would be mummified. Thankfully, Doctor Who was coming on, so I would have more to do than just an impression of Gort. (props to any who get the reference)

The strips of tape over the shoulders are between two and three feet long for stability and support.

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So, with two full layers of tape over my body, I was almost completely immobile. I could rock back and forth to spin myself, but that was about it. The super hero pose is necessary for the arms to be formed correctly. It also keeps them out of the way and opens the armpit up for upper arm/chest side work.

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Ah, my buddy and me!

To cut my out, the back was cut down to about the top of the butt and across the back of both shoulders. The arms were cut up the underside of the forearm past the largest muscle bundle there and the legs were cut to nearly the knees (darn my muscular calves).

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With the dummy out of the tape, it was time to make the internals. First, I made a base that was three times as wide as my stance and as long as my stance was wide. From there, I made a pair of legs that extend to the height of my hip bones and a T that rises to shoulder height.

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And the stuffing commences. I taped the legs up and put the leg braces in them, stuffing the ankles tight. Then it came to stuffing the calves, knees, and thighs. It took time, but it was not as bad as me being in it.

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My wife was helping me stuff it too. Well, at least that is what she claimed… these pics look more like she had an ulterior motive… Sorry about the shakiness of the pic, I was laughing very hard.

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With the stuffing almost done, the rest of the back was taped up and the stuffing became harder. Extra filler was put on top of the shoulder braces and the arms were given a similar treatment to the legs.

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In the end, it turned out that one duct tape dummy could make a duct tape mannequin. I guess there is a first time for everything.

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Oh, and for those of you who are wondering, I am 6’4” (1.93m) tall and tip the scales at 250lbs (113kg). I’ll be making another mannequin every 6 months or so. This is because of my exercise program that has dropped me from 300lbs (136kg) to here since January 1st. The funny thing is that it is called the Spartan workout… appropriate, ain’t it?
 
I'll be keeping an eye on this. Will you be updating everything on this thread?

Also, welcome to the 405th, and thank you for doing your research before beginning. :) We like that.
 
Yeah, this thread has really sparked my intrest! Im definately going to follow this and see where it goes!
 
Will you be updating everything on this thread?
Yes, I will be. This thread and my blog which I have begun in the blogs section. My garrison-mates hate me from the amount of planning and thought I put in to projects. They often call my posts the "WALL-O-TEXT."

...thank you for doing your research before beginning.
You are very welcome. I made sure to do this after an incident at the RPF when I first began costuming. It was not pretty... I think they were picking fiberglass out of their hair for a week and poor, poor fluffy...

But, don't worry, I'm feeling much better now. (Yes, I do a bunch of 80's pop culture references.) I am also very good about citing my sources, even those I use as a base.

**glances at the SPC Jango Arena Jetpack that I am modifying for Death Watch and smiles like a hungry wolf**
 
Death Watch Jetpack

I would like to thank Wizardofflight from The Dented Helmet for making the Jango Arena Jet Pack (Stubby) Blueprints image that I used as a basis for my own. I have finished drawing out the basics of the Death Watch Jetpack and will not begin drafting it out for the sizes and whatnot.

There are several differences between the Stubby and the Death Watch Jetpack. First, and most notable, the nose of the center tube is replaced with a miniaturized version of the Kamino/Boba Missile. Second, the box-like ridge on the back of the center tube is replaced with a cut down cylinder that covers the same area. Third, there is a detail wrapped around the central cylinder just above the housing. Fourth, the boxes on either side of the cylinder are removed, though the indentation remains in the center tube. Fifth, the raised details on the side tubes are removed. Sixth, the hexagonal bolts on either side of the side tubes (where the Boba Jetpack thrusters are connected) are replaced with round bolts. Seventh, the detail on the bottom is replaced with the bottom of the center tube and has some detail marks on it. Eighth, the bottom of the jetpack is open and reveals some basic details on the inside. Finally, the overall shape is flat on the back and on the bottom.

You will notice that I have not included the details on the other side of the back. Those must wait until after I have completed the back plate draft so that I can use the appropriate sizes for the details.

My next thing will be to draft out the design to show the sizes necessary.

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Death Watch Jetpack

The jet pack has been completely drafted out and sized. Tomorrow I will be picking up the necessary PVC piped to act as the cylinder tanks/support and print out the necessary Pepakura files. Since this Jetpack is nearly identical to the Jango, I am using the Jango Arena Jetpack pattern by SPC as a base. I still need to figure out what to use as the thrust nozzles and how to put the missile together, but I’m sure it will come to me.

If all goes well, I should be ready to cut tomorrow.

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Death Watch Jetpack

It took me a while to get the angles correct, but I have finally rendered the Jetpack. I did this to see how much foam I would need and to create a poor-man’s pepakura design to know how to cut the foam once I have it.

You might notice that there are some details that are missing, most notable the fill on the top. The reason for this is two fold. First, my program kept crashing every time I tried to put a fill inside of it. Secondly, I was lazy and decided that I could do it on the fly.

I have decided that I am going to make the thrust nozzles and as much of the missile as I can rather than try to find the necessary hardware for them. Otherwise, all I should need are the appropriate PVC pipes and pipe ends for the cylinders and little whatsits.

Not to mention, this project is easy enough to mod into the Jango Arena, Jango Kamino/Boba Jetpack that I should have no problems supplementing my costume building with fleabay sales.

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Nicely planned out project.

Looking forward to see you suits.

Wizardoflight also made blueprints of various halo weapons that can be found in the weapons section.
 
Okay, just a quick update. I am currently putting this program on hold until I have a couple of more pep files. I am going to practice my skills on cutting and pepping normal armor (Jango templates) until I can get a little better templates. As well as a light modification of the Jango Jetpack.
 
Just a strange question, but has anyone ever thought to use pepakura templates with sintra? Cut the sintra out, score it for the mountain/valley folds, use a two-part epoxy to put the various pieces together, etc? I was just thinking that it might be a little safer than using fiberglass, though you would probably still need to use bondo.
 
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