Dutch A How To Mold Series

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Love the mold making videos ben. Very Informative... and it helped me in my decision on whether I should get Rebound 25 or Dragon Skin. Thanks for posting them... they really help!
 
pooper said:
Love the mold making videos ben. Very Informative... and it helped me in my decision on whether I should get Rebound 25 or Dragon Skin. Thanks for posting them... they really help!



no problem sir. As a side note dragon skin should really only be uses as a mold material for Large objects EX: the chest molds, or a large torso like I will have for the elite build. Things that will be laying down and re-enforced with a strong mother mold do not need such a heavy medium. If you are doing the chest in 2 parts then you can use rebound also as each part would have a strong mother mold and most likely you would be "painting" in the plastic and re-enforcing it with fiberglass (for questions about that tune in later as I will be molding and casting a chest piece soon).
 
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Your going to do the chest as well? Cool!



Is it going to be a MVI or ODST? And will there be a video on this? Looking forward to seeing/hearing about this method.
 
pooper said:
Your going to do the chest as well? Cool!



Is it going to be a MVI or ODST? And will there be a video on this? Looking forward to seeing/hearing about this method.





Ok I've got a lot of stuff laying around to mold. I need to make new molds from my muckles, I have a new larger mrk VI chest. I've already molded all of the ODST parts so sorry on that, I Have also already molded the Mrk IV helmet, but I do have some video of that. I will video all the up coming molds. These will be my V3 muckle molds (as the V2 molds were destroyed a while ago) so the will probably be out of Rebound. The chests will be in two parts so that will also be out of rebound. For the "Glove" molds (meaning a mold with only one open area and no cut lines as in you take it off like a glove) I will be using Latex this go round. I have found that while Latex produces fewer pulls (or finished casts) it is easier to make glove molds with. This helps since there is no flash line (or plastic that leaks out from a seam) to sand after casting. Thus a raw cast is much more manageable. I will also be molding a gen 1 mold of the Elite head in the future. That one will require a little more planning on my part.
 
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A conversation that should be shared:



QUESTION:

MrOreo123 said:
I was just watching your Livestream, and saw you sanding your Elite head. I missed which plaster product you used for it though. Would you mind telling me? BTW, I love your Dutch mold video series. Thanks so much for putting those out!



-Hero



ANSWER:

On that one I was using Dap plaster patcher. It is available at walmart, or any hardware store and runs about $4-$6 Click on the picture below for a link



070798520844.jpg



QUESTION:

MrOreo123 said:
Thanks! And another question: It didn't look like it on the video, but have you had any cracking problems with this as it dried/cured?



I don't know if you've read any of my progress threads, but my wife has an aversion to the fumes from polyester resin/bondo, so I've been trying to find products that give off very little, if any fumes. From what I saw on your video, it looked very easy to sand, and I'd like to use this as my primary detailing material prior to molding my armor pieces.



Thanks again for your help!



-Hero



ANSWER:

it is good as a primary detailing material, but you must first harden the model with bondo, resin, aqua resin, fiberglass, smoothcast 320, or some other form of hardening agent. if not the plaster will crack and fall off. Also before i mold a piece that had been detailed with plaster I put a top coat of resin on (it will actually absorb into the plaster to give it a glass like finish), then spray it with at least 2 coats of an acrylic sealer. Also cracking can occur if the plaster dries at an uneven pace. This isn't really a problem down here due to the extreme humidity. but in warm dry climates you may see some cracking. if this happens don't be discouraged. Plaster patcher can be Patched with..... plaster patcher. I know its funny right. to do this you need to slightly moisten the area needing to be patched. wait about 5 mins then apply more plaster patcher to fill in any voids. you can also lay in some cheese-clothe or plaster patching screen to help hold the plaster together (although this is only needed on large LARGE areas). Hope that helped, and if you don't mind I would like to post this question and answer up in the thread. Others may find the info helpful.





I will not post this in a thread without firs obtaining your permission. (permission was obviously given)



QUESTION:

MrOreo123 said:
I slush with SC320 into my pep builds for support prior to detailing work, so no worries there. :) And since I'm trying to avoid using resin, are there any alternatives prior to sealing with acrylic? Or maybe just put more layers of acrylic? I haven't used it myself yet, but I heard of people using modge podge. Would this serve the same purpose for the resin top coat?



As for posting in the threads, absolutely. I like to blab, so feel free to trim anything I've said, lol.



ANSWER:

elmers glue will work the same sir. Thin it with a small amount of water 1pt water to 8pts glue. It would have the same effect.
 
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So when are we going to get to see a mother mold take shape?! I really want to know how you do your "razor back" (or in other words: how do you separate your mother mold parts?)
 
I will make/film that tomorrow while my daughter is at school. so you should see it around noon for the first part, and around 4-5 for the second part.
 
looking foward to it. Im sorry if didnt catch it, bud did you say you create a jacket/mothermold with plaster?
 
i am haji said:
looking foward to it. Im sorry if didnt catch it, bud did you say you create a jacket/mothermold with plaster?



Plaster bandages and "rondo", you will see in about 3hrs, maybe even sooner if the wife comes home early.
 
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Sorry first vid of mother mold up. It took 3.5hrs to upload this vid.



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_vp5PnSA9M[/media]



Part 2 of mother molding coming sooner I hope
 
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDMriDXmtqk[/media]



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfyRcrMb0-E[/media]
 
Yeah!!! Turns out to be a nice looking mother mold!

I would assume that this method is a little cheaper that Plasti-Paste.

Also thanks for showing your version on Rondo! Like the results.
 
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxYvdRR6JcA[/media]



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd2fl3g709s[/media]
 
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9JKmSd_GCg[/media]



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CCiieePqHI[/media]



Fin



Coming Soon to a forum near you:



How to Scale your pep file (A video tutorial)

How to Latex Mold

How to Pour a casting with Rondo

How to pour a casting with Flex-It Foam

How to Apply Battle Damage

And much much more

Act now and we may even through in some behind the scenes footage



Until next time folks remember:

Same "BAT"-Time...... Same "BAT"-Channel

Wait that's not it



Oh Yeah

If we can do it.......So can you
 
IM LOVIN IT!! this is great for teaching people how to mold. it makes me want to go totally broke and mold something
 
Thanks for taking the time to do this. I've been trying to make a mother mold for my Rogue helmet and have had multiple issues. Also my 2nd try was all plaster and weighed about 50 lbs. I'll use some of your ideas next time!



Juggernaut
 
Kudos Ben this series definitely answered a whole mess of questions I had about mold making and mother molds. Thanks a lot of taking the time to share your technique. Can any one say Sticky?



I am not sure if this is off topic but is this essentially the method that you use to mold the rest of the parts of the armor?



Anywho thanks again can't wait till I get to the point where I can start molding.
 
These vids are great!

I love the way you did the mother molds. I have used plaster bandages with mine also but backed them with ultracal which made them heavy.

Your way seems MUCH better.

Next time I need to mold something, I am gonna try this out.





Also, I see some members are freaking out about the amount of silicone this stuff takes.

I just wanted to let everyone know that a SMOOTH ON "Gallon kit" comes with a gallon of both A and B.

It is this way with the silicone as well as the resin, or if you call it liquid plastic.

These kits yield 2 gallons of mixed product.



Again, killer vids Ben!!!



Here are some pics of the containers I have. I rubbed Sharpie on it so it would show up in the pics.



stuffandthings001.jpg


stuffandthings002.jpg
 
BenStreeper said:
Made a version 3 of my dutch helmet so before I molded it I decided to do a "how to"-ish presentation.



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzHnN8lCGOY[/media]

hi how much are the halmets?
 
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