Ender's New Mk Vi

Ender06 · Dec 27, 2009

I'm starting my new Mark 6 and Busa. I'll finish MC's before finishing the busa, I just wanted to have the busa helm done... why? Because its awesome

Took about 4 days for Flying Squirrels helm, and about a week and a half for the busa (my job got in the way). I scaled the helm to 27.5 cm tall.

Pics!

Here's the info sheet with the new Master Chief suit:

Heres the completed pep MC helmet, much better quality than my old one already!

Front:

3/4 view:

Side:

Rear 3/4 view:

Comparison to my old master chief helm:

Here's the busa build so far the model I used has the crown and base helm split into separate pieces:

Fact sheet:

Front with comparison to current MC helm:

3/4 view:

rear 3/4 view

Test fit:

Seems good IMO, though i do have a abnormally large head XD

And I did see that the sides of the main crown are too straight, I fixed it by spraying rubbing alcohol onto the surface then bending it when wet, and letting the alcohol evaporate, it works quite well (doesn't cause the glue to dissolve, evaporates fast, and keeps the shape you set it as) you can also do it multiple times to get harsher bends without creasing the paper:

How am I doing so far?

Nerfguy3million · Dec 27, 2009

Lookin Good There My Friend.

Keep it up.

Chevysrule · Dec 27, 2009

That's some amazing pep skills you've got there, and some super clean folds! By the way, is your name Ender, like the main character in the book Ender's Game?

P03SAUCEZ · Dec 27, 2009

the pep on the busa helm looks fantastic!

Ender06 · Dec 27, 2009

Thanks guys

And to:

Chevysrule: Yup Ender's game

Chevysrule · Dec 27, 2009

Ender06 said:
Yup Ender's game

Then in that case, you have a very cool name.

Bigwillie5 · Dec 27, 2009

nice peps

Drgnfyre4 · Dec 27, 2009

That is some superior pep work!

bobvdijk · Dec 28, 2009

Those are some nce peps!

keep it up!

Bob

Cameron · Dec 28, 2009

Kudos on the awesome name...

Did I just read you plan on putting an electromagnet in the back to hold a weapon? And speakers in the HELMET!

First off: Bad ass... Second: Where does the car battery go? :lol

sirnaut · Dec 29, 2009

Really good work so far

Ender06 · Dec 29, 2009

Thanks again

To: Cameron

- The electromagnet is a thought experiment right now, if i can get one or make one that is strong enough and small enough, and has a small enough power consumption ill put it in, otherwise its gonna probably use big rare earth bar magnets. The speakers are gonna go in the shoulder thingies (those black triangles that sit ontop of the shoulders), and the mic will be wired to my helm.

Ender06 · Jan 3, 2010

lord... MK VI chest almost done... I forgot how much I hate pepping.

Just have a few edge pieces and struts to put into place, here's a test fitting of the chest. Seemes sized alright, maybe a bit wide, but I'm gonna compensate that with a custom padded undersuit.

What do you guys think I should go with to strengthen the suit? Traditional fiberglass/resin/bondo? Rondo slush with the fiberglass? Smoothcast? Short strand fiberglass putty?

Cameron · Jan 4, 2010

Chest looks pretty good size wise. I'd say go traditional. It works and is pretty cheap.

vector499 · Jan 4, 2010

1. HOLY CRAP THAT IS SOME OF THE BEST FOLDING I HAVE EVER SEEN

2. how do you get your folds sooo clean?, 2b. what type of glue do you use?

3.use rondo to strengthen it because you will have to sand less, which sucks more than pepping(trust me).

keep up the outstanding work, it looks like we are gonna have another awesome spartan suit on our hands

-Dusty

Ender06 · Jan 6, 2010

Dusty said:
1. HOLY CRAP THAT IS SOME OF THE BEST FOLDING I HAVE EVER SEEN2. how do you get your folds sooo clean?, 2b. what type of glue do you use?3.use rondo to strengthen it because you will have to sand less, which sucks more than pepping(trust me). keep up the outstanding work, it looks like we are gonna have another awesome spartan suit on our hands-Dusty

Thanks guys

2 - I score the folds on their respective sides (it also helps that I've done one entire suit already XD)

2b - Allene's Quick Dry Tacky Glue (you can get it at walmart for 3 bucks a bottle or so), basically thicker elmers glue.

3. i was planning on using rondo on the inside to get a better finish, you think i should rondo the outside too?

Update!

Finally got done with the chest piece:

On the ab piece I also extended it up by about 4 inches, (not pictured yet, i'll get a pic once i get a heat gun to the hotglue)

I also made a underarmor positive out of craft foam, I eyeballed most of it, so it kinda sucks, but i figure its gonna be black and hardly seen, and since its gonna be made of hot glue in the end, i should be easy enough to detail/fix if needed; The positive is made from craft foam, then gets sealed around the edges with hot glue to prevent the silicone (added later) from getting inbetween the lamiations. Once sealed, the ab piece is covered in silicone and allowed to dry, once dry, more silicone is added to reinforce the negative mold. Once the mold is solid enough, it is peeled away from the foam, and a hot glue cast is made, the hot glue cast will be used in the final suit.

looks pretty slick so far i think!

And getting ready for the silicone:

After first silicone pass:

Note to all: Silicone smells NASTY (like super concentrated vinegar).

papasmurf · Jan 6, 2010

i just love how you did the under suit cant want to see the hot glue cast

Ender06 · Jan 7, 2010

Hot glue cast is on hold until i can get a caulking gun... pushing the bottom plunger with the handle of a screwdriver is really hard!!!

Any how, I have the left shoulder piece done no pics yet, its a shoulder piece comon... I'm stuck as to how to make the underarmor for the shoulders though... hot glue is too stiff, can't make a mother mold as the main model i cant even make.... (stupid shoulder and being insanely round...

But I did get something done in respect to the suit's systems.

Cooling system!

The basis of this system is off of a peliter unit (thermoelectric effect), combine a low profile heatsink fan, peliter, and water block and you have yourself a nice compact water cooler.

My main thought process here is:

1. Running the peliter off of a 4500 mAh rechargeable battery, a 80w unit will have about half an hour of run time (the units draw alot of current),

2. The entire unit will be switched, only when I'm outside/walking through hot areas/ over heating, will I turn it on, thus extending the time I can use it to half a day or so.

3. And the water will be pumped by my body (to save on power, electric pumps need space and power, both of which are at a premium), either a small hand pump somewhere or through the motion of my body will pump the water around.

4. By adding more batteries in parallel I can extend the run time.

Now, some may say 80w is puny, and it is, but have one in each shoulder and you have a total combined 160 watts that you can dissipate, the average human body produces 100watts at rest, (now moving I know it may be closer to 200 prolly), so 160 should be adequate for light moving. The other peltiers which are 250 watts require too much power to operate, the 250 watt one takes 24 amps to run... your battery will be dead in under 10 minutes... not to mention the hot side of the units gets insanely hot; these units are exclusively used with water cooling setups in computers, as water is the only thing that can wick away enough heat to keep the hot side from burning out the entire unit.

The main benefit of the peliter though is that the cold side also gets very cold, on the 250 watts, ice will form on the unit (and even the motherboard if not properly installed)

Pic of how it would be installed:

Ender06 · Jan 9, 2010

Alright, the helmet is finally finished, details and all, ready for it not to be winter around here.... there's frost on the inside of my door frame... O.O

I also got the shoulders done and a couple more coats on the ab plates:

Helm: