Props Fully Functional Ammo Counters/Effects Modules

[raven2751]

the links on the spreadsheet are taking me to the wrong page

 

[Gokussj5okazu]

The links should go to a page where you download them. They work fine for me.

Good luck. Post some pics of it working.

 

[silvercookie]

The airsoft idea is unconventional. The amount of parts you'd need to use to sync the design of an airsoft piston, would take a lot of modification to put in. For instance you can't just hook it up to a motor, you'd need a spur gear, in order to let a spring push it back forward (or backwards, which would probably work better), then that gear has to hook up to a series of gears so you can get the right timing rpm. Notto mention the batterry needed to power a spring big enough to push the weighted piston with significant force...

I saw the oscillating motor, or whatever you want to call it, that you were talking about on mythbusters (episode about that dude who supposedly collapsed a building inadvertently with vibrations). If you got on their website, there's a forum where you could find out the model and where to get it.

if you read my other post correctly then you would understand.

notice how i said everything minus the piston enclosure

all you would need is the battery that comes with the gun. hide it in the magazine so you can take it out and charge it.

i dont think it is that hard to make a board to allow a certain amount of "shots" to be made.

ive been playing with airsoft guns and making little things out of them. it is very possible and very easy to do.

the only hard thing would be finding an electric gun with an assembly that is small enough to fit in the butt of the gun.

 

[D0096F]

I don't think you understood my post. The piston enclosure takes up very little room, the rest of the gearbox, and the motor are space hogs. The magazine battery is a good idea though.

You would need the piston enclosure anyway. The reason the gearbox's of any half decent gun is metal is because the piston puts a lot of stress on the shell when it flies forward, putting a weight on the piston, and subsequently a bigger spring to give it enough force is going to put a lot of pressure on whatever the piston is hitting against. Correct me if I'm wrong since I'm a prop building noob, but most of the models people make are resin, bondo, plexiglass etc, right? If you were to strip the upper assembly and just plop a piston into the body, your model wouldn't last long at all.

But alright, if you think you can do it then go for it, I don't think you know what you're talking about though...

 

[silvercookie]

I don't think you understood my post. The piston enclosure takes up very little room, the rest of the gearbox, and the motor are space hogs. The magazine battery is a good idea though.

You would need the piston enclosure anyway. The reason the gearbox's of any half decent gun is metal is because the piston puts a lot of stress on the shell when it flies forward, putting a weight on the piston, and subsequently a bigger spring to give it enough force is going to put a lot of pressure on whatever the piston is hitting against. Correct me if I'm wrong since I'm a prop building noob, but most of the models people make are resin, bondo, plexiglass etc, right? If you were to strip the upper assembly and just plop a piston into the body, your model wouldn't last long at all.

But alright, if you think you can do it then go for it, I don't think you know what you're talking about though...

ok. the reason you remove the piston enclosure is to let it move more freely=harder impact.

and if you get one of he little mp5s or steyers or one of the mini guns from wal-mart or sports authority (which only cost about $20) tht is more than small enough to fit in the butt of the gun. basically with those. you could pretty much cut 3/4ths of the gun away with a dremel and the gearbox and piston would still be operable. then you just soder some battery connectors and . walla.

and to answer your question i said put a little rubber pad on the end. and the the only casted ones like from link and Adam. they are made out of i believe liquid plastic or urethane. those would be able to withstand the force of the piston head. bondo when it hardens is like a rock. but most people use that as a filler then sand down the messed up area.

not sure ive ever heard of anyone using plexiglass.?? do you mean fiberglass? but even that when resined and fiberglassed it would also be able to take the force.

and yes the box is metal not the gears. only guns that cost $250+ come with metal gears. and then the gear replacement kits the come with metal gears cost $75+. so the box or housing may be metal but 95% of the time the actual gears would be plastic.

i think i have a mini mp5. ill take a picture and then outline everything that can be taken off while it still being functional.


is that a long enough answer for you? *sighs*

 

[D0096F]

Well, you could certainly fit a mini's internals in, but it wouldn't have enough force to give hardly any recoil. The gears would probably strip before they could get a weighted piston to move. But, I suppose you could make a "custom" gearbox by drilling bushings into the walls, and then use a mpeg's internals. I still think it'd be a good idea to leave the piston chamber in, once you can start to feel the recoil, the piston will be hitting with a lot of force. Think of it this way, to get recoil the piston has to move the whole gun, that'll take a lot of force, even more depending on how heavy a material you use.

Yes, i meant fiberglass, my mistake.

For the record (in case you decide to try it out) there are plenty of airsoft guns under $100 with metal gears. Most JG, newer WELL guns, and newer CYMA guns come with metal gears (JG and WELL are the brand names), and the plastic geared boxes, generally don't last very long w/o any modification.

 

[silvercookie]

Well, you could certainly fit a mini's internals in, but it wouldn't have enough force to give hardly any recoil. The gears would probably strip before they could get a weighted piston to move. But, I suppose you could make a "custom" gearbox by drilling bushings into the walls, and then use a mpeg's internals. I still think it'd be a good idea to leave the piston chamber in, once you can start to feel the recoil, the piston will be hitting with a lot of force. Think of it this way, to get recoil the piston has to move the whole gun, that'll take a lot of force, even more depending on how heavy a material you use.

Yes, i meant fiberglass, my mistake.

For the record (in case you decide to try it out) there are plenty of airsoft guns under $100 with metal gears. Most JG, newer WELL guns, and newer CYMA guns come with metal gears (JG and WELL are the brand names), and the plastic geared boxes, generally don't last very long w/o any modification.

Cyma started making metal gears???? when was this. why didnt i know about this?????

i knew well made metal gears but my friend had a couple and they lasted maybe a week

jg was the only one i knew about but i wouldnt mes with it. too nice.

but you have a good point with the weight of the gun vs how much force the piston is putting out

 

[pacbury]

very nice, alot of those parts can be found in old electronics and then de-soldered, i agree though, i have never seen blue led displays for sale over here in the uk.

 

[Sinjinsmiley]

Pac I have found a few blue 7 segment displays although I agree that they are quite rare in the UK.

Those that I have found can be viewed here

 

[Gokussj5okazu]

very nice, alot of those parts can be found in old electronics and then de-soldered, i agree though, i have never seen blue led displays for sale over here in the uk.

Ya, alot of old electronics have the parts I used since it's just a real simple counter and gate setup. Blue 7-Segs are pretty rare, and expensive, over here as well. Why couldn't the counter have been red or something? Those are a dime a dozen.

 

[silvercookie]

Ya, alot of old electronics have the parts I used since it's just a real simple counter and gate setup. Blue 7-Segs are pretty rare, and expensive, over here as well. Why couldn't the counter have been red or something? Those are a dime a dozen.

why not make them then.

thats true though. i have had a million things with green,red,yellow counter but not one with blue.

i guess they are just more appealing.

ill keep an eye out for some for you.

 

[xobx]

OMG, that could be alot easier done

 

[Gokussj5okazu]

OMG, that could be alot easier done

Be my guest. >_>



Now, on a lighter note. I finished the PCB layout for all three rifles. If anyone wants to print their own PCB, just follow this tut and use the file I've included.

http://www.robotroom.com/PCB.html

BR55 PCB

MA5C PCB

MA5C PCB


AND, here's the updated parts lists. I changed a bit around to make the circuit more tidy, but it's all about the same.

BR55 Parts: Final

MA5B Parts: Final

MA5C Parts: Final


FINALLY, here's the LED display. It's compact enough to fit where it should on all three rifles, and it will plug up to either of the three main boards.

LED Display

 

[D0096F]

Eagerly awaiting the finished product, as I have no idea what all those lines mean

 

[RadioactiveMicrobe]

Eagerly awaiting the finished product, as I have no idea what all those lines mean

same here I was like: Pretty lines?
Can't wait for these by the way, I might get one as soon as I fiberglass my AR.

 

[Gokussj5okazu]

I get paid Friday so I'm going gonna be etching the first few PCBs in my chem class Monday. Should have working protos by end of week.

Does anyone have any ideas for the audio module? I know one setup, but it uses a particular IC that's not very main-stream, and about $10 on it's own.

 

[silvercookie]

hey thanks for all the time put into making these.

tommorrow im going to go to a radioshack and buy all these parts.

so if i manage to have most of it done - the led display ill post pictures.


but i think instead of printing a pcb board and everything im just going to buy a piece of breadboard and then solder smal wires. which imo would probably be easier although more fragile. anyway i could probably be done by friday.

( have to search the house for monies and everything.)

 

[pacbury]

Pac I have found a few blue 7 segment displays although I agree that they are quite rare in the UK.

Those that I have found can be viewed here

yea, just wish they sold them at maplin... i love that shop

 

[Sinjinsmiley]

Its looking good although I was wondering a couple of things:

1. What are the dimensions of each of the PCBs?
2. Would it be possible to put an extra LED into the circuit to create a muzzle flash when the gun fires
3. With the mag switch, does the gun stay locked from firing whilst the mag is removed or is it simply a push button to reload?

Thanks

Oh and Pac I'm lucky a new Maplins has just opened up just down the road from my College

 

[PillowFire]

At Original poster.


wow this is great, and guess what? I just finished learning about 7-segment displays in my digital electronics class like a week ago. I could probably build that based on the schematics you provided, of course we haven't started learning how to create circuit boards yet, only how to breadboard

But still, this is extremely useful, have a few questions though.

1) Are those AND gates with the little open dots in front or are they NAND gates, I can't tell whether the dots are just part of the schematic symbol or there to show it's a NAND gate as I am too accustomed to Multi-Sim. Same for the other gates.

2) What Simulation software do you use?

3) The cost estimate is including time you spent laboring over it, obviously, but what would it cost for all the supplies needed to make the circuits if I went and just bought them from..say..radio shack for example, or another electronics store.




Also, this is in response to the simulated recoil, maybe you all are looking at it a bit too critically? What if you simply use Co2 cartridges to simulate blowback? I imagine you could get quit a bit of blow-back before needing a new one if you use it just for that and not to fire anything.

Maybe take some parts out of a paintball gun/pistol, or an airsoft blowback Co2 pistol?

Just thought I'd put that out there, since in my experience, Co2 tends to be very effective at simulating recoil, many high-end airsoft pistols I have used, simulate a very nice blow-back/recoil action with the gas, and that is with Green Gas/propane, with Co2, it should be even more powerful.