SchizophrenicMC
Well-Known Member
Hopefully. These polycaps are starting to sicken me. They crack in the wrist joints and get loose far too quickly.
You use Acrylics, right? How well does Tamiya Red coat the inside of thruster nozzles, do y'know?
Gundam Fans
- Thread starter Jester1014
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You use Acrylics, right? How well does Tamiya Red coat the inside of thruster nozzles, do y'know?
Jester1014
Well-Known Member
I did 3 coats on my Matsu custom, just make sure you shake it up every thirty minutes to keep a good consistancy.
I use Tamiya X-7 red then a final clear red for my 3rd layer (X-27).
Well the Zeon 2.0s only have about a dozen poly caps, most of the joints are now the Lego plastic. My shin Matsu is still holding it's Giant BZ perfectly, poly's haven't shifted or cracked.
I use Tamiya X-7 red then a final clear red for my 3rd layer (X-27).
Well the Zeon 2.0s only have about a dozen poly caps, most of the joints are now the Lego plastic. My shin Matsu is still holding it's Giant BZ perfectly, poly's haven't shifted or cracked.
SchizophrenicMC
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the MkII 2.0 had mostly plastic joints. I love it. (Acrylonitire Butadeine Styrene for the win, man)
See, I'm gonna be using a lacquer-based Aircraft Spray and Tamiya Spray from Tamiya, but I've heard weird things about brushing on Red acrylics, like X-7. (Got me a bottle, and some X-6 Orange to mix to the right red. I like adding saturation) Like, they tend to suck and leave brush marks. I'd test it, but I don't have any spare nozzles. Maybe I'll make G05 my trash unit? Its hip joint DID snap off, and it does have trouble posing- Except, I think it has yellow inserts in the nozzles. Maybe I'll just test the red paint on the GM's nozzles before I hit it with its main coat? The German Grey is almost the same color as the molded grey, so it shouldn't be TOO far off.
See, I'm gonna be using a lacquer-based Aircraft Spray and Tamiya Spray from Tamiya, but I've heard weird things about brushing on Red acrylics, like X-7. (Got me a bottle, and some X-6 Orange to mix to the right red. I like adding saturation) Like, they tend to suck and leave brush marks. I'd test it, but I don't have any spare nozzles. Maybe I'll make G05 my trash unit? Its hip joint DID snap off, and it does have trouble posing- Except, I think it has yellow inserts in the nozzles. Maybe I'll just test the red paint on the GM's nozzles before I hit it with its main coat? The German Grey is almost the same color as the molded grey, so it shouldn't be TOO far off.
Jester1014
Well-Known Member
Got these pics from a friend in Maylaysia. Thought you'd like them
SchizophrenicMC
Well-Known Member
That is some insane kitbashing. Really makes me wanna make a diorama.
SchizophrenicMC
Well-Known Member
Be gentle, at first. I hear the first time can hurt xD
But, seriously, keep an X-acto knife around, and I suggest buying new sprue cutters. A PG has 500+ parts, and it'll chew up your nippers.
Which kit are you getting?
But, seriously, keep an X-acto knife around, and I suggest buying new sprue cutters. A PG has 500+ parts, and it'll chew up your nippers.
Which kit are you getting?
Jester1014
Well-Known Member
I know it sounds gross, but I use spru cutter, then snip the tab off with a clean and only used on kits pair of nail clippers. the big kind. It makes a real close cut.
I don't know much about PGs, schiz has one, all I know is they're expensive and pretty much need a lot of tlc in the build.
Be careful, good luck, and can't wait to see pics.
I don't know much about PGs, schiz has one, all I know is they're expensive and pretty much need a lot of tlc in the build.
Be careful, good luck, and can't wait to see pics.
SchizophrenicMC
Well-Known Member
I use a sprue cutter, and cut the part loose, with a good amount of gate flash left on the part, then I snip as close to the part as I can, shave it relatively smooth with the X-acto knife, and, sometimes, sand it a touch with some 600-grit sandpaper. Leaves the surface nice and smooth for paint.
PGs are very expensive, have a lot of detail, and take a long time to build. They're not really hard to make, but they do require a lot of work and attention to detail. I was a bit disillusioned when I bought PG Strike, and in the end, I was disappointed. I sunk $200 into a model that couldn't hold any awesome pose for more than 5 minutes, without falling. Plus, the amount of detail was disappointing, for a $200 kit. I mean, really, if I'm gonna pay for 4 MG kits, to get 1 kit that's the size of 2, I want it to go into MUCH greater detail than MGs. But they're not proportionately more detailed to their price. Still, if you know what you're doing, you can get some great things out of a PG kit.
PGs are very expensive, have a lot of detail, and take a long time to build. They're not really hard to make, but they do require a lot of work and attention to detail. I was a bit disillusioned when I bought PG Strike, and in the end, I was disappointed. I sunk $200 into a model that couldn't hold any awesome pose for more than 5 minutes, without falling. Plus, the amount of detail was disappointing, for a $200 kit. I mean, really, if I'm gonna pay for 4 MG kits, to get 1 kit that's the size of 2, I want it to go into MUCH greater detail than MGs. But they're not proportionately more detailed to their price. Still, if you know what you're doing, you can get some great things out of a PG kit.
Jester1014
Well-Known Member
I think you would get more your moneys worth with getting the MG strike IWSP. Gave mine to a friend for christmas. He built it up and just loved it.
SchizophrenicMC
Well-Known Member
Ooh, Strike... Pro-tip: Keep it on its action stand. It can't balance on its own, with the Aile pack on its back. The Skygrasper's pretty impressive, for a sub-model, though. Add panel lines and some metallics on the pipes and it'll look really cool.
Jester1014
Well-Known Member
You'll be happier with Red Frame. IS it a PG or an MG?
SchizophrenicMC
Well-Known Member
He said PG earlier, Jay ;P
In any case, I'd stay away from Strike Rouge, and, if you're going to get one of the SEED PGs, get Red Frame.
In any case, I'd stay away from Strike Rouge, and, if you're going to get one of the SEED PGs, get Red Frame.
SchizophrenicMC
Well-Known Member
You CAN use a fine-tip Sharpie. The question is do you WANT to?
A fine-tip Sharpie costs $3. It may run for a good amount of kits, and it's fairly easy to apply. But it takes work to clean up, and it leaves a purple shiny effect in the panel-lines. In my experience, the effect isn't worth the time spent. And, on a PG, you kinda want everything to be Perfect.
You could get Gundam Markers. They would look okay, and they're easy to use. They're about $3 a pen, I think, and, well, you're shipping home a $200 model. It's an insignificant addition to price. Problem is they don't last long, in my experience, you can only get them from Asia, and the tip goes bad long before it runs out of ink. Plus, the really thin lines don't take easily. Still, I do suggest metallic Gundam Markers. They are fantastic.
Personally, I use Smoke Grey Tamiya Acrylic, thinned out with 91% Isopropyl. I just brush the thinned mixture onto the part, over the lines, let it dry for about 5, 10 minutes, then take some alcohol on a q-tip (not much, mind you) and rub the excess off. It takes off the excess on the surface of the part, and leaves the recessed detail. This requires a lot of doing, but I love the effect, and I can get it at the local hobby shop. It's $3 a bottle of paint, which will last a good, long while. You also need a brush and rubbing alcohol, though, so it gets a bit more expensive, but then, you wanna have a brush, anyway, for touchups and detail paint, and, rubbing alcohol lasts longer than the paint, is dirt-cheap, and is a good first-aid supply. It's 500 Q-tips for $2, and I use Taco Bell napkins for some of the work. Maybe also invest in toothpicks. ($1 for 1000 toothpicks)
SchizophrenicMC
Well-Known Member
I saw that a few weeks ago. It's pretty cool, yeah. Reminds me of a 4-foot-tall papercraft I saw of Freedom, somewhere or another.
After searching the interwebz I found this.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcKMVdXstoU
(6:40) Lighter fluid is something I already have so I'm going to try this method.
What are your views on when to panel line a model. When the pieces are still on the tree, after they have been removed, or after the model is put together like he did in the video?
(6:40) Lighter fluid is something I already have so I'm going to try this method.
What are your views on when to panel line a model. When the pieces are still on the tree, after they have been removed, or after the model is put together like he did in the video?
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