H4 Air Assault Build

Status
Not open for further replies.

Tenebris

New Member
Ok, so just to start off, I already posted this thread once (like an hour before this one) and it disappeared, it's not in my posted threads on my account or anything, nor does it show up on search, so if it turns out that there's a duplicate of this thread, that would be why.

I just have a few questions about 3d printing props, since that's how I will be trying to do it. I wanted to know what type of plastic and the amount of infill commonly used for props. I know that this varies between people, just looking for some opinions. Also, where would be a good place to find obj or stl files here? I've tried to work off of armory files, though unsuccessfully since I am a beginner at modeling. I saw people mention a file archive in some of the older threads, I don't know if that was an older version of the armory or what.
 
Ok, so just to start off, I already posted this thread once (like an hour before this one) and it disappeared, it's not in my posted threads on my account or anything, nor does it show up on search, so if it turns out that there's a duplicate of this thread, that would be why.

I just have a few questions about 3d printing props, since that's how I will be trying to do it. I wanted to know what type of plastic and the amount of infill commonly used for props. I know that this varies between people, just looking for some opinions. Also, where would be a good place to find obj or stl files here? I've tried to work off of armory files, though unsuccessfully since I am a beginner at modeling. I saw people mention a file archive in some of the older threads, I don't know if that was an older version of the armory or what.
I'm actually not sure on this site, there are a few threads with 3d models. mostly in the 3d modeling section of the forum. that would be the best place to search. another place would be Thingiverse, although it's probably not as good of a place to find them, you may find some there.
 
I do 3 perimeter shells, 3 top and bottom layers, about 20% infill, at 0.15mm. That should yield some decent results.

I typically print in PLA+. It behaves like PLA with very little curling, but it's pretty strong like ABS plastic.

For files and 3D models, if you want some Halo-related stuff, search "FFA series" and make sure to check the box that says "search titles only".

There are some pretty great free 3D models that me and a few other guys have released.

Hope this helps!
 
It does help, thanks! I usually print at 50% infill, but on larger prints like weapons and armor I know it would eat up a whole lot of plastic. Got some FFA models downloaded and sliced, going to start printing today and see how it goes.
 
I wanted to know what type of plastic and the amount of infill commonly used for props. I know that this varies between people, just looking for some opinions. Also, where would be a good place to find obj or stl files here? I've tried to work off of armory files, though unsuccessfully since I am a beginner at modeling. I saw people mention a file archive in some of the older threads, I don't know if that was an older version of the armory or what.

I use ABS plastic because I like the way it finishes when sanding.

I usually like having at least 4 outer walls and 10% infill with my models.

I grab models from the armory regular like any else would. I just take the model and import it into Blender. Sometimes I'll take models from thingiverse.com or myminifactory.com and re-do them to suit my needs. If I find that a model is too difficult to save (broken with a lot of holes), I'll run it through 3D printing Repair tool and their AI is pretty good at fixing my problems that I can't see.
 
I use ABS plastic because I like the way it finishes when sanding.

I usually like having at least 4 outer walls and 10% infill with my models.

I grab models from the armory regular like any else would. I just take the model and import it into Blender. Sometimes I'll take models from thingiverse.com or myminifactory.com and re-do them to suit my needs. If I find that a model is too difficult to save (broken with a lot of holes), I'll run it through 3D printing Repair tool and their AI is pretty good at fixing my problems that I can't see.

There's a few different handy other tools that have their uses.

Azure - STL not manifold? Run it through and holes or zero thickness surfaces on files will be repaired.

SketchUp Solid Inspector - An extension for SketchUp that identifies errors in files and offers an automatic repair tool that's so-so but being able to identify where issues are allows you to rework your design and fix issues.
 
TurboCharizard brought up a good point in sketchup with Solid Inspector and it reminds me of something in Blender. I use Blender a lot and a good tool to have is add on "Mesh: 3D Print Toolbox". I make sure to install it by going to File>User Preferences, go to the "Add-ons" tab and select it about mid way down. Then hit "Save User Settings" after you selected it.

It'll appear on the left side tabs after install.

If you are editing an object, you can hit "Check All" then scroll down on the left tab to see the "output section" This lists potentially all the problems you's have while printing. Unfortunately, it doesn't fix any of them, just merely points out where they are.
 
Thanks for the replies, I’ll be sure to check out some of the software, namely Azure and the Blender add-on. My last attempt at modifying an armory file failed because when I added thickness to it, it made a mess of the mesh. It created a seam down the middle of the model, and it created a whole lot of geometry inside of the mesh. I’ll see if I can use some of these tools to salvage it.
 
It does help, thanks! I usually print at 50% infill, but on larger prints like weapons and armor I know it would eat up a whole lot of plastic. Got some FFA models downloaded and sliced, going to start printing today and see how it goes.
Awesome. Glad it helped. Be sure to post some pictures on this thread of your progress and results!
What prop are you printing?
 
This is my first build , trying an H4 air assault helmet, afterwards Ill probably try the FFA MA37 and ARC. Since its my first build, I have plenty of questions to ask if I don't find answers in already existing threads.
 
upload_2018-12-10_23-14-34.png

This is what I have at the moment, I'm modifying and detailing a model provided by Moe Sizzlacc. At the moment I'm straightening some of the edges from the solidify modifier and starting to work on detail in the chin area, but I work on a very tight schedule, I have no more than like 30 minutes a day free time, if that.
 
Changed the thread title, repurposing the thread to a build log now that my questions have been answered.
I'm going to try and post updates pretty often, so there might not be a huge amount of change between posts.
upload_2018-12-12_0-4-33.png

upload_2018-12-12_0-4-53.png

I finished repairing the issues that I've seen, looks like my workflow is pretty different than the one used on the base model, so I had to modify it. Started detailing, and it's taking much longer than I had expected. It's a lot of trying things, deciding I don't like them, and trying them differently in a cycle. Using creases to remove sub-d in some areas is creating a pinch effect, not too bad, but noticeable, wonder if there's a way around that. Well, that's what I got for now.
 
Can I get an opinion here? Does it look better with or without that extruded region on the chin? Something seems off about it, just cant decide what. Looks pretty barren without it though.

upload_2018-12-12_20-23-57.png
 
Hey Tenebris, I just found another pep file made by statyk94 on Deviant Art and it was Unfolded by Spartansonny of 405th. Take a look at this Blender file and see if the new file has more details that you were looking to make:
Untitled.jpg


If anything, it may get you closer to what you want. It's ready to be exported for printing.
 

Attachments

  • Halo 4 Air Assault.zip
    109.4 KB · Views: 237
Well... I've run into an issue. A major issue. I finished the model for printing, and the same thing happened as when I tried to model it before. The solidify modifier being used to add thickness created all sorts of intersecting and non manifold faces, to the point where it's so convoluted that there's nothing I can do about it that I know of. It's bad. Any ideas?
upload_2018-12-15_1-21-48.png

upload_2018-12-15_1-22-4.png


And here are the highlighted issues \/

Intersecting faces on the backside of the air filter thing
upload_2018-12-15_1-23-36.png


intersecting faces inside, just below the plate on the cheek
upload_2018-12-15_1-24-57.png


More intersecting faces
upload_2018-12-15_1-26-1.png


I have no idea where to even start.

Ill attach a file if anyone wants a look.

Well, never mind I guess, apparently I can't send blend files through here. If anyone wants to take a look or wants to try and fix it, just say something and I'll get it exported. Otherwise, I'm open to ideas.
 

Attachments

  • upload_2018-12-15_1-23-22.png
    upload_2018-12-15_1-23-22.png
    618.5 KB · Views: 174
Intersecting geometry won't matter to your slicer as long as the geometry is an enclosed volume. I wouldn't worry terribly about what you've described above but know that you don't have to apply the solidify modifier and manipulate the created geometry (which should save you the frustration you're encountering).

I'd recommend not adding the solidify modifier until you are done modifying the mesh, or have it on but hide it while you modify the mesh. Once the mesh is how you'd like it, add or un-hide the modifier to verify that the thickness is acceptable and change as necessary. When you export to an STL file (or any format) there will be an option check box to apply modifiers (checked by default) which Blender will then do for you automatically when you click export.

One note on the solidify modifier which may be helpful. The modifier works by thickening each face along its normal direction. If you have two faces back-to-back or close together, if the thickness of the modifier is large enough then the back-side of one face will extend past the front-side of the other (and so screw with the outer shell of the model). This can commonly happen where faces share a fairly sharp angle (see the example below). One solution to fix this is to decrease the thickness of the modifier but then it may be too thin at other places of the geometry. Another and better solution is to use the clamp value in the modifier settings. You can slide the clamp value from 0 to 2 and it changes the thickness where the issue described above occurs.

Below is a photo to help explain. At the bottom model is my geometry without the solidify modifier and in the second up you can see the problem created by the modifier's thickness and geometry's proximity of faces (clamp value here is 0 or essentially off). In the third up model I've set the modifier's clamp value to 1 and at the top model the clamp value is 2. If I were to 3D print this example I would use a clamp value of 1 which would best match my desired thickness without any of the problems when the clamp wasn't used. I don't care about interesting geometry (again, as long as it is an enclosed volume) and I never have to deal with geometry other than the outer shell because I never apply the modifier.

Hope this helps. Good luck with your project.

Clamp example.png
 
Last edited:
That was helpful, but after trying to use the clamp value, it made most of the model too thin, and the intersections are not enclosed, it didn't fix all of them. I had to fix them by hand, but now I have to figure out how to increase the thickness again. Back to square one.

Any ideas on how to resolve this? Id just scale on the inside faces in, but it would angle all of the geometry connecting the inside and outside.
 
Last edited:
Attach the file (before you apply any of the modifiers. I'd like to take a look at it. just Zip the file before attaching it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top