Half Life 2 ~ Gordon Freeman Armor

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Got a question, have you guys found a pep or done a pep yet for the Grav Gun just wondering b/c there is a thing on the Tamasoft Pepakura Gallery for a lot of Half-Life stuff it's all either on the first or second page of the gallery I think or just do a search for Half Life when you get on there.
 
Nintendude said:
Got a question, have you guys found a pep or done a pep yet for the Grav Gun just wondering b/c there is a thing on the Tamasoft Pepakura Gallery for a lot of Half-Life stuff it's all either on the first or second page of the gallery I think or just do a search for Half Life when you get on there.



A grav gun would be an exceptionally difficult AND exceptionally fragile pep.



Personally, I think that it would be pointless to make. It would be far too hard to resin and 'glass, and even then I don't think it would be too sturdy.



You'd be better off scratch building it from metal and plastics.
 
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OK, I thought one side had magnets and one side had actual hinges that would keep it from sliding apart. Are there any pictures from the Valve artwork that show where you could hinge the forearms? Also, the chest shouldn't need to be hinged, right? The head hole is big enough to put your head through all the way, so it should theoretically work in one piece. But if you were to hinge it, where would the cuts go?



Also, thanks for the link to the magnets.
 
(null).exe said:
A grav gun would be an exceptionally difficult AND exceptionally fragile pep.



Personally, I think that it would be pointless to make. It would be far too hard to resin and 'glass, and even then I don't think it would be too sturdy.



You'd be better off scratch building it from metal and plastics.
I've seen the grav gun file on the tamasoft site, I downloaded it, took a look at it, and like Null says, It's just not going to work. Paper just doesn't fold like that.:lol
 
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Risu said:
OK, I thought one side had magnets and one side had actual hinges that would keep it from sliding apart.

You shouldn't need actual hinges. With 4 points one each piece where magnets touch each other, there shouldn't be ANY sliding, especially if you do the "zig-zag" cuts shown on the thighs.



Are there any pictures from the Valve artwork that show where you could hinge the forearms?

I've been using this one. It's a little different from the first one, but it's actually closer to the .pdo models.

half-life-2-wallpaper.jpg


I would put your cut next to that little flange on the outer right side of the forearm.



Also, the chest shouldn't need to be hinged, right? The head hole is big enough to put your head through all the way, so it should theoretically work in one piece. But if you were to hinge it, where would the cuts go?

Yes it'll need to be hinged. The head hole -is- big enough, but I don't think that anyone will be able to get their arms through the arm holes if it is all one solid piece. That being said, I'm planning on just separating the chest on the sides, next to the rib cage, and leaving the top solid. The fiberglass should have enough flex to allow the front and back to be held apart enough for the wearer to slip their arms up into the armholes, then when the sides close, magnets hold the seams together.



Also, thanks for the link to the magnets.

No problem man.
 
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Big thanks for all those answers. I'm working on the left thigh now. I had one poorly sized test and a bit of confusion because the left and right have the same picture despite the pieces being mirrored. I'm just finishing up the properly sized piece and I realized that I don't have a clue which is the front and back. I figured the part where it raises up at the bottom goes above the knee cap, but when I turned it around it fit much better on my right leg with that raised area above the back of my knee. I'm not basing fit on my knee, it rests plenty high above it, but on the top end. It doesn't feel like it fits right the way it seems like it's supposed to go. So which is it, the raised part in the front or the back?



Also, I've only ever made a helmet in pep before, it's become apparent that I'm going to have to trim the pieces in certain places. If I trim part of an edge with a lip, what is the best way to add a new lip to the new edge?
 
OK. It feels super uncomfortable, but hopefully once I get it glassed I can figure out a way to make it fit better. I think the biggest problem is just that it doesn't really conform to your leg, so the top lip hugs your thigh and the bottom lip just wobbles around and scrapes all around your knee area. It kind of pulls to the front mostly. Maybe once I get some padding put in it'll hold still.
 
Risu said:
OK. It feels super uncomfortable, but hopefully once I get it glassed I can figure out a way to make it fit better. I think the biggest problem is just that it doesn't really conform to your leg, so the top lip hugs your thigh and the bottom lip just wobbles around and scrapes all around your knee area. It kind of pulls to the front mostly. Maybe once I get some padding put in it'll hold still.



Yeah if you look closely you can see the same reddish padding in the neck area is repeated on every other piece except for the belt. Make the armor slightly larger that necessary, then the padding will hold it in place and make it comfortable.
 
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At this point the thigh armor is so big that the knee area is going to look like nothing but bone when I have the whole thing on. The piece doesn't taper with the leg at all.
 
Risu said:
At this point the thigh armor is so big that the knee area is going to look like nothing but bone when I have the whole thing on. The piece doesn't taper with the leg at all.

i have thet problem too

but with under armour it should be ok
 
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The problem still exists once the under armor is added. The knee area is skin tight, so the under armor doesn't actually add any bulk to your knee. After making the belt I've realized that I have to upsize the upper leg pieces even more, so I'm going to save those for last and try to find a way to redesign the piece so it actually fits.
 
I know I havn't updated much lately, but I'm working on some other projects and getting settled into my new job ^.^



I am going to be working on a bit of creative redesign on the thighs so that they'll flow with the leg better. That's the beauty of pep, you can just cut and reglue to widen or taper as needed.



Best suggestion so far:



Add an extension to the inner side of each thigh piece to make it taper more. Some temporary taping and fit-testing will be required.



Once you get the final shape of the new taper, you'll be able to just cut a new piece (or pieces) and glue it (them) into place.



Hope this helps you all!



~(null).exe
 
Swordz said:
Hey man the download link is broken :(



It would help if you quoted the link that was broken, so I could know what to fix instead of having to wade through 10 pages of posts ^.^



I'll fix it tonight.
 
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The breast plate I made is too small. Maybe I printed it small by clicking yes to the that stupid reduced margins questions. Is there anyone else thats finished the chest plate yet?
 
omegagauntlet said:
The breast plate I made is too small. Maybe I printed it small by clicking yes to the that stupid reduced margins questions. Is there anyone else thats finished the chest plate yet?



I have, I just havn't posted pictures because I'm busy with a lot of other stuff ^.^



Make sure that in Pepakura that the paper layout matches your printer's settings and that the margins are set at the widest that your printer will allow. The pep files I'm hosting on 4shared have the margins set up for my printer, an HP Deskjet 3650. Check online to find your printer's specs if you don't have the owner's manual anymore, it will ensure that you get the most real estate per page :)



Good luck!
 
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I'm really looking forward to that redesign. I just picked up all the materials to make my under armor today, so hopefully I can get that thing knocked out in a couple days. (I have to make a pattern and then learn how to attach a zipper, fun stuff.)



Does anybody know a good way to get some 1/2 inch thick foam rubber sheets for less than a fortune? Jo-Ann's charges $10 a yard for that stuff and they don't even have any pieces in stock big enough to make the midriff armor.
 
Apologies for the double post, but this thread was about to drift off the first page. I have the free version of pepakura, is there any way to use the program to create support struts? I'm just finishing up my chest piece and it's looking like it's going to be really badly warped without some struts around the bottom opening. I measured and eyeballed a strut for the belt piece, but this is way more complex. I'm thinking it needs two struts crossing like an X from the edges adjacent to the raised sternum indentation to two edges on the back. So can this be done in pepakura, or does it have to be done during the modeling stage?
 
Risu said:
Apologies for the double post, but this thread was about to drift off the first page. I have the free version of pepakura, is there any way to use the program to create support struts? I'm just finishing up my chest piece and it's looking like it's going to be really badly warped without some struts around the bottom opening. I measured and eyeballed a strut for the belt piece, but this is way more complex. I'm thinking it needs two struts crossing like an X from the edges adjacent to the raised sternum indentation to two edges on the back. So can this be done in pepakura, or does it have to be done during the modeling stage?



Any changes to the model have to be made in the modeling program, pepakura doesn't have any of that functionality. Careful eyeballing, and cardboard, are your best bets to reinforce the chest.



Have you looked at the closed-cell foam camping pads that most big-box stores carry to use for the abdomen armor?
 
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