wlitt
New Member
Hello, this is the second part of my ODST kit thread. If you're interested in seeing how I did the helmet, check out part 1
I purchased an already rigged-up torso kit and thigh plates from @/vultureproductions on Instagram. He is very friendly to his customers and has helped me out by giving me good advice for my cosplay.
These parts are made out of rubber, so they can flex, bend, and are very durable. It's amazing. It comes with a big downside though; they are very hard to paint, especially with rattle cans. I was informed by a few people to use an automotive adhesive promoter.
This stuff works pratty damn well. I first start by rubbing all the pieces down with isopropyl alcohol, then hit them with two light coats of the adhesion promoter. Once it's dry to the touch, it's ready for spray paint. Since the parts are a softer rubber, the paint can be scratched off fairly easily, but I just chalk it up to free weathering lol.
Another nice thing about these parts is that using acetone to remove the paint won't damage them. Unless you leave it in acetone for a long time (learned my lesson the hard way)
Here's how all the parts were looking with my base coat of grey.
The biggest problem I was encountering was that the paint would not fully dry, and I was honestly about to just give up over this. I found out two things;
1. It's good to use a different color for a first coat, because the satin rustoleum colors are way too drippy, thin, and it causes them not to fully dry
2. I used a two-part clear coat, USC spraymax to be specific. this fully dries out the part. one vital piece of advice I can give is to spray it VERY LIGHTLY. If the clear coat is applied too heavily, the paint will crack as the armor parts bend and flex. If it's sprayed lightly, that shouldn't be a problem.
When I first started painting this kit, I masked off the chest piece after I hit it with a base coat of the grey, using no clear coat over it, and not having a better color under for the paint to stick to, some of it ripped right off as soon as I started taking my tape off.
In the next thread I create, I will go over the details I made, my weathering, 3d printed parts I made, and more. Here's how things were looking after getting my base coat of grey applied.
thanks for reading!
P.S. I forgot to include, I am using a lighter grey for the abdomen plate, Rustoleum Granite. This color dries a lot better on the rubber surfaces too.
I purchased an already rigged-up torso kit and thigh plates from @/vultureproductions on Instagram. He is very friendly to his customers and has helped me out by giving me good advice for my cosplay.
These parts are made out of rubber, so they can flex, bend, and are very durable. It's amazing. It comes with a big downside though; they are very hard to paint, especially with rattle cans. I was informed by a few people to use an automotive adhesive promoter.
This stuff works pratty damn well. I first start by rubbing all the pieces down with isopropyl alcohol, then hit them with two light coats of the adhesion promoter. Once it's dry to the touch, it's ready for spray paint. Since the parts are a softer rubber, the paint can be scratched off fairly easily, but I just chalk it up to free weathering lol.
Another nice thing about these parts is that using acetone to remove the paint won't damage them. Unless you leave it in acetone for a long time (learned my lesson the hard way)
Here's how all the parts were looking with my base coat of grey.
The biggest problem I was encountering was that the paint would not fully dry, and I was honestly about to just give up over this. I found out two things;
1. It's good to use a different color for a first coat, because the satin rustoleum colors are way too drippy, thin, and it causes them not to fully dry
2. I used a two-part clear coat, USC spraymax to be specific. this fully dries out the part. one vital piece of advice I can give is to spray it VERY LIGHTLY. If the clear coat is applied too heavily, the paint will crack as the armor parts bend and flex. If it's sprayed lightly, that shouldn't be a problem.
When I first started painting this kit, I masked off the chest piece after I hit it with a base coat of the grey, using no clear coat over it, and not having a better color under for the paint to stick to, some of it ripped right off as soon as I started taking my tape off.
In the next thread I create, I will go over the details I made, my weathering, 3d printed parts I made, and more. Here's how things were looking after getting my base coat of grey applied.
thanks for reading!
P.S. I forgot to include, I am using a lighter grey for the abdomen plate, Rustoleum Granite. This color dries a lot better on the rubber surfaces too.
