Halo Legends: Spartan Daisy-023

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Haha..... ohh you make it sound so easy!! :notworthy: Helmet came out awesome BTW. When’s that in line to be printed? And why can’t I enlarge your thumbnails??

Edit: sorry never mind they are now working!!
Currently it's just the chest and helmet left to print which is awesome.

Edit for photo of 1/8 of the chest failing 25 hours into a ~28 hour print.
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Funny story about that whole printing thing though. Stepper motors are supposed to be near frictionless and controlled by electromagnets, my large printer y axis decided to try being non-frictionless and when torn apart had a bunch of metal shavings inside from something grinding. Not sure if the bearings blew apart or parts of magnet got ground down somehow but I'm considering that a dead part to tinker with later. A replacement motor is on the way (delivery by Wednesday or Thursday) so I'm down to one smaller printer. Fingers crossed that the replacement process goes well and I can still finish this project on time. Worst case I delay unveiling a month to probably my favourite local convention.

Edit for disassembled stepper and one of the offending chunkies.
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Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
photo of 1/8 of the chest failing 25 hours into a ~28 hour print.
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That sucks, dude. At least you still have a smaller printer. I hope everything works out with the build. If you weren't 3D printing it, I'd offer to help build out of foam to save you some time.
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
View attachment 265638

That sucks, dude. At least you still have a smaller printer. I hope everything works out with the build. If you weren't 3D printing it, I'd offer to help build out of foam to save you some time.
Honestly I'm not too bummed out about the print failure since it's all just part of the hobby. Sure, it's a few dollars worth of material wasted but 3D printing is a tinkerers pastime so problem solving and getting to rip machines apart is as big a part of the process as cleaning up and finishing successful prints.

Overall I'm not extremely concerned about the finish date looming, it just means that I'll have less time to do painting and detailing if I do have to resort to printing everything as smaller pieces. Also this is a project of "let's see how this turns out" so where would the enjoyment be if it was just smooth sailing the whole way through?
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
The shoulders and biceps of the Halo: Legends and Halo 3 CQB variants are similar enough that I was happy to stick with the models that MoeSizzlac designed with slight variation to match the in game model for this variant instead of the Mk. VI he designed. Check out the different angles that showcase how they kind of just don't have anything in the location of the shoulder bell. That just means that my under suit is going to need a bit of extra detailing. The other interesting part is that the armour kind of just transitions straight into under suit which poses a bit of a challenge and the only solution I can really think of is a velcro attachment point to maintain that transition during movement. Any ideas are much appreciated.
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Do you folks like the more in depth design posts for modelling of objects or do you just like big fancy pictures? One of the reasons I spend as much time on this forum is to both learn and teach techniques, if there's something I can do to help with teaching the different approaches I use I'm all for trying out different things. For this post I've left it as a tl;dr video that goes through the Fusion 360 design timeline of the shoulders but if you like the specifics laid out into steps I can cover those in future posts and build threads.

One of the benefits of the CQB shoulder is a wide canvas for your player emblem but unfortunately Daisy just has pure red which is rather boring. I leaned more towards the Halo 3 design with the bolts and venting to help break up the wide panels. To add a bit of extra flair I added a "stamped in" manufacturer mark on each side, the right has a Misriah Armoury stamp and the left has a Skookum Props stamp which I hide in all my 3D models. A channel for lighting was left in the model as well as a recess for mounting hardware to be attached. I'm going to have the option for interchangeable shoulder pads with alternate paint schemes, one that is Daisy specific and one that is generic multiplayer with player crest and Canadian Regiment/Delta Battalion crests.
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Rigged onto the Armorsmith avatar you can see the way that the bicep and shoulder overlap which will allow for hidden slotted steel plates to be used for the shoulder armour changes without drawing too much attention.
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Pictured below is the glue up of one of the the plates, luckily there's only a little bit of body work required near the edges where there was slight peel up from the print bed, other than that there's lots of room to maneuver the larger sanders so cleanup will be quick on this already nice print.
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Also included is the attempt I made after attempting a repair of the y-stepper motor, slowing down the acceleration and jerk settings in the effected axis. For the majority of the print it was enough but as the model became more narrow the print head needed to transition and change direction more frequently resulting in more layer shifts. Not a complete failure and worth using as a test in fit for the part but I'll likely be attempting it once again once the dead motor is swapped with it's replacement.
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As promised, a tl;dr version of the design process in Fusion 360.

Until next time folks, and keep that feedback coming!
 

Satchmo III

Well-Known Member
I think nuggets of modeling info in a build thread are okay but since the modeling process is a bit of a specialized operation it might be good for you to keep track of those nuggets and expand upon them in a dedicated thread or tutorial. That way there’d be a collection of your thoughts and practices that others could absorb in that singular context and for you to refer to (if you desire) instead of detracting from your build. I think you’re doing this NURBS modeling which I’m interested in learning more about.

It’s very cool you’re treading unexplored parts of Legends and putting in the amount of care that you are. Andross’ enemy is my enemy.
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
I think nuggets of modeling info in a build thread are okay but since the modeling process is a bit of a specialized operation it might be good for you to keep track of those nuggets and expand upon them in a dedicated thread or tutorial. That way there’d be a collection of your thoughts and practices that others could absorb in that singular context and for you to refer to (if you desire) instead of detracting from your build. I think you’re doing this NURBS modeling which I’m interested in learning more about.
Agreed that the in more in depth process explanations didn't feel right in a build thread, this is why I asked what people were thinking. I'm looking at setting up a 3D model thread in the specific sub-forum but I need to do a bit of planning because I'm thinking of making it a bit more interactive and long lasting. I'll definitely be tagging you in there once I put up the thread.

It’s very cool you’re treading unexplored parts of Legends and putting in the amount of care that you are. Andross’ enemy is my enemy.
I don't know if it's unexplored sections of Legends, just not too high profile. There's been a few Daisy suits that show up from a Google search so I'm not breaking new ground, more just bringing light back to a piece of lore that's been buried under a decade of new games, novels, comics and other quality content.

This all looks spectacular!
Thanks MajWood, I've done the first pass of sanding on the majority of the printed parts and am aiming for XTC-3D to start going down on parts this weekend. The torso also restarts being printed tonight.

The replacement motor for the Tevo Tornado came in yesterday and I got to do a bit of robot brain surgery. The motor connections had a reversed polarity to the stock motor so there was a bit of fiddling to switch up wire connections and adjusting controller voltages for it but we're back in business. The dimensional accuracy is still good but there's a bit of tuning likely needed to get the surface finish to a place I like. Either way, WE'RE BACK IN BUSINESS BABY.
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TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Over the past three days I've put nine to ten hours of sanding in as a first pass of cleanup.
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The major goal of this first pass is to remove all remnants of support material, clear off any stringing and knock down any layer lines, salmon skin/artifacts and get a good base for adding the exterior resin coat. My plan for the final surface finish of the armour is similar to what I've used in several other builds but this time I'll also be adding an internal resin coat done as a slush to give a bit of extra strength overall. Order of operations is as follows.
  1. Remove surface defects
  2. Body filler and glazing putty to fill recesses
  3. Surface prep for epoxy (sanding/removing dust/oils)
  4. XTC-3D external brush on
  5. SmoothCast 65D internal slush
  6. Sand to 320
  7. Paint
Right now we're at Step 1 on the boots, shins, thighs, cod, biceps, shoulders, gauntlets and at Step 4 for the handplates so I thought I'd throw some more in progress photos before another design post sneaks it's way in. Since the cod has a good set of mirror symmetric parts that we're both printed at the same time they make a good comparison for before and after. The prints for Daisy are kind of on the messy side in my opinion since I'm printing at 0.2mm layer height and maximizing speed so that all parts will be finished on time so excuse the potato-quality of the raw pieces.
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Thanks to power tools and elbow grease we can turn those potatoes into slightly nicer looking potatoes (I don't know where I'm going with this, please help) with some simple tools.
  • Trusty $2 craft knife for deburring and support removal.
  • Mouse sander (80grit pads) for large planar areas
  • Rotary tool with 80grit flapper wheel to knock down the harder to reach spots
  • Sandpaper for the really hard to reach spots
  • 220grit sanding sponge to knock down roughness for a fingernail scratch test
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At this stage I'm not aiming for perfection, just to help the self leveling epoxy do it's thing and find the small valleys that still remain. After that, then we start to get picky!
 

Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
Woohoo! Results! Go man, go!

I like the contrast between the potato and the mashed potato (a little help? I dunno...) That's still a lot of cleanup to do, but it's looking great.
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
We're moving right along at a great rate of knots currently with the torso being past the halfway point and the helmet not far behind. As any excited Canadian does, things are quickly pieced together with duct tape to see if they'll work.
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TRIGGER WARNING: WEIRD MEME CULT STUFF

As an added bonus, it's that time of year again where there's far too many puns about layers and onions. A new role was added to the cult[?] type thing that I run called The Shrekening. The Shrexecutioner has this oar prop I painted up one afternoon last weekend. It's weird, I know. The joke won't die though so here we are six years later. It's okay though, CplYapFlip still likes me.
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SI3RRA 117

Well-Known Member
Prints are coming out great. I may have asked already. What filament you using? Looks like PLA? What brand?
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Prints are coming out great. I may have asked already. What filament you using? Looks like PLA? What brand?
eSun PLA+ Gray

This stuff prints like butter at 210°C (on my machines) and rarely clogs nozzles or causes buildup. I find that the gray is the most reliable colour, not sure if it's coincidence or some black magic with the material science. Gray also has the benefit of photographing well to show details/crimes whereas other colours like black and white layer lines get lost easily in different light levels. I've been working on some commission pieces so the last of the Daisy prints should be finished up by the middle of next week!
 

zachturner009

Well-Known Member
Ooooh that looks good, the sanding though...I hate sanding, sanding can just F@#$ off somewhere else, but hey you make it look easy, despite the long hours that probably and did take!
 

SI3RRA 117

Well-Known Member
eSun PLA+ Gray

This stuff prints like butter at 210°C (on my machines) and rarely clogs nozzles or causes buildup. I find that the gray is the most reliable colour, not sure if it's coincidence or some black magic with the material science. Gray also has the benefit of photographing well to show details/crimes whereas other colours like black and white layer lines get lost easily in different light levels. I've been working on some commission pieces so the last of the Daisy prints should be finished up by the middle of next week!
Nice. Same filament I’ve been using for a while. I do like it. My new printers suppose to be here tomorrow. Hopefully we have better luck with this one!!
 

PerniciousDuke

RXO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
I think the detailed posts are good. For those that don't want to read they'll just look at the bolded stuff and photos. Nothing wrong with that either.

But, if you do a lot of the leg work in your thread then later when we twist your arm to do a tutorial.. you'll just copy paste and edit for one super long read. :)

Coming along great!!
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Ooooh that looks good, the sanding though...I hate sanding, sanding can just F@#$ off somewhere else, but hey you make it look easy, despite the long hours that probably and did take!
I've been tracking my sanding hours. So far I've done a first pass of everything except the torso and helmet and I'm at fourteen. Then I'll get to do the same again after the filler, resin coats and... Yeah.

That just proves that CplYapFlip needs to go back to the optometrist. :D:D:D
I'm the one of the duo that wears glasses!

Nice. Same filament I’ve been using for a while. I do like it. My new printers suppose to be here tomorrow. Hopefully we have better luck with this one!!
eSun is the good stuff! It's a little more per spool on average but the consistency of printing makes it worth the extra coin.

Can't wait to see this when its finished. Already have photo ideas
It's like we have a whole ten minute short to recreate. I am not shooting any cripples though.

I think the detailed posts are good. For those that don't want to read they'll just look at the bolded stuff and photos. Nothing wrong with that either.

But, if you do a lot of the leg work in your thread then later when we twist your arm to do a tutorial.. you'll just copy paste and edit for one super long read. :)

Coming along great!!
I'm a fan of the detailed posts as well because it helps to break up the FOTR posts :p If you ever need a specific tutorial that falls under my wheelhouse of knowledge just tap me on the shoulder and I'll write something and toss in as many photos as possible.

The next big hurdle was the helmet which I'm writing a post for right now!
 
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