"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

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Ok so I done the rondo 75/25 mix and dam that's messy stuff but very strong I couldn't believe it!
I done the jaw, brim, earpiece, and around the visor should I now do a 50/50 mix for any wide areas ?
could I now take out the visor? it seems to be very strong ?
 
50/50 will give a thin coat, when you use which mixture is up to you.

Rondo is strong but it's brittle. If you drop it, it will crack. That's what the fiberglass is for.

As for the visor, you can remove it when the rest of the helmet is hardened. At least one coat of rondo over the entire inside before visor cutting.
 
Question about Bondo: Can it or should it be used on foam (EVA)?

Just wanted to check before I went out and bought my supplies
 
Question about Bondo: Can it or should it be used on foam (EVA)?

Just wanted to check before I went out and bought my supplies


Take a look through my build thread...

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...ive-Action-Video-Now-Up!)?p=669122#post669122

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...ive-Action-Video-Now-Up!)?p=669266#post669266

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...ive-Action-Video-Now-Up!)?p=677042#post677042

It's possible, but not without care and preparation.
 
Question about Bondo: Can it or should it be used on foam (EVA)?

Just wanted to check before I went out and bought my supplies

Yes, but the only time I've seen it done is on Carpathia's boots. And he had to add a layer of a specific type of resin before applying the bondo. He talks about the resin here. As far as I'm aware I don't know of anyone who has tried to apply bondo strait to foam, but I can imagine it would crack.

For some parts that have no stress or bending, it may be useful, but in alot of parts it may defeat the purpose of foam, which is to be lightweight and flexible. Have a read of Carpathia's thread, he seems to have a good foam+bondo method going.

-S420

EDIT: Carpathia beat me to it.
 
There isn't any real difference between brands. Most people use Bondo-brand because most stores carry it.

I am partial to TAP plastic's resin because it has a color indicator, but that's minor and most people don't live near a TAP.
 
Ok so I've been playing about with milliput and resin I done 50/50 mix and it has stayed in a rubbery state witch is easily cut with a scalpel
witch I thought was pretty interesting as the mix will bend and flex without tearing
 
Question, I live in Edmonton and it is about to get very cold outside, so I most likely wont be able to do anything outside..is there any way I can do it in a room? I have heard a bit about aqua resin, but I havnt heard anything about how well it works as a substitute..also if I were to use the aqua resin are there any other chemicals in the other materials I will be using and could avoid?
 
For hardening your armor and fiberglassing it, I am using EpoxAmite® 100 Laminating Epoxy. It is safe for indoor use as long as you use a breathmask (nowhere near as hazardous as Bondo). If you are looking to rondo a little, then you need to add URE-FIL® 11 thickener.

It has an 11 minute pot time. At about 10, it will start to slush and get gooey and be completely solid at 7 minutes. After that, you can begin the second coat, slushing, etc. However, before you sand it, you have to wait for the cure time of 6 to 8 hours. If you want more pot time, they make slower solidifiers but it also adds longer cure times.

It works well with fiberglass, kevlar, carbon fiber, and whatever you need it for. It doesn't shrink and is actually stronger than the polyester resin. The downside is that it has slightly more weight in equal amounts. The upside is that it doesn't take much to make a solid object truly solid.
 
Hey, so i dont live in america, nor any other nativ English country. So figuring what Bondo and resin realy is quite the challenge.

so my Q is..
I found this "Gelcoat" substance, and i wondred if this could be "resin"?
http://biltema.no/no/Bat/Kjemikalier/Polyester-og-Epoksy/Gelcoat-30622/
[Trasnlation; For paint and filling of surface damage in gelcoatlaget. Mix with 1-2% hardener. White. ]

Or this.. "polyester"
http://biltema.no/no/Bat/Kjemikalier/Polyester-og-Epoksy/Polyester-36075/
[Translation; Reinforced with glass fiber or fiberglass mat. For repair of large holes in the vehicle body, trailer, plastic boats, swimming pools etc. Extremely good adhesion. Adheres to metal, wood, concrete, M. M. Highly resistant to vibration. Mix with 2% hardener. Hardens after approx. 30 min at room temperatur]


And "Bondo", is it a type of paste whit fiberglass strips/bitz in it?
 
Hi thar.
ok, so how many layers you talking about?

But since you say neighbor, are you scandinavian, or just not english :p
cause the "bondo" produkt i've looked at is called "GlassfiberSparkel", just wondered if it is correct to asume it to be the same as "bondo"..
 
about 4-6 layers but it goes quick and you can put on the second layer rather quick after the first

it dont get rock hard but hard enough to do some bondo without it to fall apart

and i believe "glasfiber paklet" is an easier way to do the bondo i believe, i have not use it my self

jag är från sverige min goe vän
 
So Foam brushes, do they dissolve with the resin or do they stay solid? I just found a box of them in my basement and I was wondering if it would be safe for the outside, so does anyone know?
 
It can't hurt to try them. Some foams do dissolve, but you can't be sure until you try your own personal set. There are a lot of different types of foam out there afterall!
 
Hello, I am wondering if for an alternative to bondo could I use my aqua resin and just mix a lot mote hardener (the powdery stuff) then the liquid? So I can have a bondo like substance that is non toxic and indoor user friendly?
 
Hello, I am wondering if for an alternative to bondo could I use my aqua resin and just mix a lot mote hardener (the powdery stuff) then the liquid? So I can have a bondo like substance that is non toxic and indoor user friendly?

No, not really. I mean.... feel free to try it and share your results, but I wouldn't bet on it.
 
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