"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

[Carpathia]

There are two things you can try. You can try resizing the font of the tab numbers (the smallest you can make them is 4, but you have to type it in the box as it's not readily selectable). Or, you can try to turn the tab numbers off altogether so you can see the fold lines. In either case, it's always recommended and helpful to have the file open on a computer in front of you as you work on the piece, so you can reference any uncertainties you have.

 

[recon313]

Elmer's White glue is a popular choice (the only glue I use for pep). A lot also use hot glue or super glue, but there are a lot of problems you run into with both of those.

i use the uhu all purpose adhesive (smells funny). Only problems i've had when pepping is if I haven't used enough on a tab it may fold back and create a gap. It happens rarely for me, the glue is great though.

Thx i think i stick with the uhu. as elmer kinda rare and more expensive in my place.

 

[stormy87]

I was just looking though your posts and I have a question about the paper you use. When I resin my peps they always warp and distort. I have been using 110 lb card stock. I make supports out of cardboard and stuff but they always warp or look like I just soaked it in water.
What weight of cardstock do you use? Any tips?

 

[Carpathia]

110 lb cardstock is the right stuff to use. When you resin, do you coat the entire piece? How much resin are you putting on the piece? If you overload the piece with resin, it will weigh down and sag/distort/warp. Essentially, you're soaking paper in a liquid, so if there is no dry cardstock to maintain the shape, it will sag. When I resin, I typically apply the resin in two passes; covering only about half the piece in a very light layer (making sure that the part I am leaving uncoated is a structural part, like the opening of a helmet or the sides of the cod), then coming back and covering the rest in a light layer. When both are cured and the piece is fully covered in a light layer, I come back and apply another, slightly thicker layer over the entire piece.

 

[stormy87]

Ok, I usually do it all at once and it gets sloppy with resin. What kind of brush do you use? I have been using foam bushes.

 

[Carpathia]

I use 1" chip brushes...

You can get a 36 pack of them for $8 at Harbor Freight. Stay away from foam brushes. They soak too much of the resin in and you can't control the amount that goes onto the piece as well as you can with chip brushes.

 

[stormy87]

Great, that sounds like that is my problem. Thanks for the help.

 

[recon313]

guys im half done prepping helmet what left is only cheek part
what make me curious is
*how to stick the 4 semi circle part?
*if i had it part of my prepakura does light will goes throught it as im planning on using lights
*lastly the visor part and support kinda make me confucious whick one must i stick to complete the part
sry if this kinda a silly quetion
my helmet isMKVI_HD_HELM_FLYINGSQUIRL

 

[Carpathia]

guys im half done prepping helmet what left is only cheek part
what make me curious is
*how to stick the 4 semi circle part?
*if i had it part of my prepakura does light will goes throught it as im planning on using lights
*lastly the visor part and support kinda make me confucious whick one must i stick to complete the part
sry if this kinda a silly quetion
my helmet isMKVI_HD_HELM_FLYINGSQUIRL

First off, I'm having trouble fully understanding what you're asking; you need to work on your grammar and spelling, and type in complete sentences.

Now, I will try to help.

First, concerning the four light ports on your helmet, most people either do not pep those bumps, or cut them off later and replace them with something. I've seen plenty of people (myself included) use clear cabinet door bumpers covering the holes where you put the lights. This is the product I'm referring...

and here is what it looks like on my own helmet with the lights on...

Moving on to the visor. I recommend Blackula727's method. Here is the link to that tutorial...

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/31352-Tutorial-Install-amp-Detail-your-visor

I hope this helps.

 

[recon313]

First off, I'm having trouble fully understanding what you're asking; you need to work on your grammar and spelling, and type in complete sentences.

Now, I will try to help.

First, concerning the four light ports on your helmet, most people either do not pep those bumps, or cut them off later and replace them with something. I've seen plenty of people (myself included) use clear cabinet door bumpers covering the holes where you put the lights. This is the product I'm referring...

and here is what it looks like on my own helmet with the lights on...

Moving on to the visor. I recommend Blackula727's method. Here is the link to that tutorial...

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/31352-Tutorial-Install-amp-Detail-your-visor

I hope this helps.

sry for my bad grammar's hehehe.thx anyway for your helps.it help a lot

 

[FreedNightHawk]

As far as the helmet lights go, the Dollar Tree (I'm sure most dollar stores have the same product) carries a clip on LED book light, which my wife absolutely adores. We have like 10 of them laying around the house. Anyways, the reflector and lens are nearly the perfect size for the helmet lights. I just figured I would share this, as it's a pretty low cost way to get essentially a full light assembly.

http://www.dollartree.com/office-sc...p-On-Book-Lights/610c548c548p332635/index.pro I don't know why the website sell them in cases only. Again, if you head to your local dollar store, I'm sure you can find the exact same product, without the 48 minimum lol.


Anyways, on another subject all together. I can no longer find my favorite glue at the dollar store (future glue). I've tried Krazy Glue, which works well, but it's stupid expensive for what you get ($3 for 1.5 grams compared to $1 for 6 grams). What glues do you guys recommend for pep'ing? I don't much care for regular super glue, as it it seems to take too long to stick.

 

[Apothacary]

I've got a seemingly stupid question, and apologize if this is the wrong place to post it. Wasn't sure if it should go here or in the pep data base thread.

With the Halo 4 armour files, the thighs, shins and other parts are a single side (like the left side or right side only). Can you just invert all the folds on the paper to get the opposite side?

 

[RobotChicken]

In Pepakura Designer there's an option to invert the model so you can have it already flipped for you before printing.

 

[Apothacary]

Awesome, found it. Thank you.

 

[FreedNightHawk]

Anyways, on another subject all together. I can no longer find my favorite glue at the dollar store (future glue). I've tried Krazy Glue, which works well, but it's stupid expensive for what you get ($3 for 1.5 grams compared to $1 for 6 grams). What glues do you guys recommend for pep'ing? I don't much care for regular super glue, as it it seems to take too long to stick.

Answered my own question. Found Loctite Professional Super Glue, $5.67 for 20 grams at Wally-world. Works extremely well for Pepakura. Just make sure you get those numbers lined up before you touch them together lol.

 

[Carpathia]

Answered my own question. Found Loctite Professional Super Glue, $5.67 for 20 grams at Wally-world. Works extremely well for Pepakura. Just make sure you get those numbers lined up before you touch them together lol.

...or you could give white glue a try and have a few seconds of work time to get the numbers lined up before the glue takes hold.

 

[FreedNightHawk]

...or you could give white glue a try and have a few seconds of work time to get the numbers lined up before the glue takes hold.

Wont that become problematic when I go to resin it?

 

[Carpathia]

Wont that become problematic when I go to resin it?

Elmer's white glue is the only glue I use for pep, and I have never had any issues when it comes to resining.

 

[recon313]

guys so far im done with my helmet what left is to put some support and and face float.But i found something unusual on the helmet opening it's size is too small my head around 16 cm and my head is 18cm.but when i do a little push i got my helmet opening about 19 cm but i must use something to hold it so it stay in shape. the thing that the support only hold the shape on the helmet without giving more gap for my head in the helmet opening.the quetion is should i remake the helmet with bigger or modify the support to the lenght i want?
my helmet flying squirel mkvI
height:275
witdh:240
dept:355
ps: sory for bad english hehe

 

[Katsu]

What I suggest is.. if your head fits inside the helmet, but has trouble getting through the opening THIS IS NORMAL. The helmets are actually meant to be two parts (mask and back) that come together over the head and not slipped on, despite what the games show us.

If you want the best results, pep the neck hole as small as it goes, then fiberglass or rondo the inside, and THEN cut open the neck hole. This way it'll be more stable when it's still paper.