How to remove Pepakura wrinkles?

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by xXDashIVXx, Dec 9, 2018.

  1. xXDashIVXx

    xXDashIVXx Active Member

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    So I am going to finish up my timmy project, got a second and scaled version on the way, but is there any way to prevent this? I keep getting these wrinkles and indents on the helmet and I dont know if I'm doing something wrong or it will fix itself once i resin.
    Any advice? 15443850600921505816775836228228.jpg
     
  2. Sean Anwalt

    Sean Anwalt RCO 405th Regiment Officer

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    It's paper, and therefore won't be perfect.

    Hint #1: go slow. Make sure each seam is perfect and tight. It'll take forever and be totally mind- numbing, but you get what you pay for.

    Hint #2: pay attention to the small areas and details. The big stuff will take care of itself if you're careful with it.

    Hint #3: goes along with hint 1, but it's take your time. "I want this helmet tomorrow night" is going to get you embarrassing results. Once you FINALLY have it pepped, take care applying the resin, and make sure to coat the whole thing several times. If your pep is perfect, and your resin is perfect, your fiberglass will be, too. After that, it's just a butt-load of bondo and sand, but be careful about the bondo as well.
     
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  3. electricknite

    electricknite Member

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    Are you scoring each fold line first? it will clean up the edges a lot, I use a ball point pen and it works great. it also looks like you could use a touch more glue (around 1364 and 1367) , hold the paper together until its really stuck together.
     
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  4. Asgardianhammer

    Asgardianhammer Identity Officer Division Staff 405th Regiment Officer

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    what kind of glue are you using also? I used loctite super glue gel with the little control applicator. It really helped cause its thick and sits on the surface without absorbing into the paper. gives you a little longer ability to stick what you want where.

    Scoring is huge for making clean pep also. Some of the surface voids you can clean up with bondo at the end of the process but you don't want to have to completely re-surface the whole piece. Defeats the purpose.
     
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  5. Lieutenant Jaku

    Lieutenant Jaku Well-Known Member

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    No.
    unfortunately, it's definitely possible to get the first just fine and botch the fiberglass. it will still be usable, just not as strong
     
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  6. Carpathia

    Carpathia Well-Known Member

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    It looks like on a few of your seams you have the tabs alternating from one side to the other. In theory, this could help with alignment, but the seam will never close properly. Try to edit the tabs to the same side of the seam before you print and take your time aligning them when you glue it up. This could cut down on the wrinkling. As for what you have there, nothing a bit of resin and bondo couldn't fix.
     
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  7. xXDashIVXx

    xXDashIVXx Active Member

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    Ok, thank you all! I am scoring my folds before working on them, and Asgardianhammer I am using superglue. It may not be the best item but It is readily accessible and is working fine I guess. Carpathia that is a great idea, but I have already cut out and started assembling, but I will keep that in mind for my next project!
    I wanted my project to look as clean as possible to cut down on sanding, and thank you all for being such a great help!
     
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  8. eric draven

    eric draven New Member

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    I try to add the hidden score lines in pepakura. It's a lot more work, but it helps curve the pieces properly
     
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  9. Elcorio

    Elcorio Member

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    I use Aleene's Turbo Tacky Glue when pepping. A very small bead on the tab, join the pieces, hold for 10-15 seconds and it has started setting. After 30-40 seconds, those pieces aren't coming apart unless they tear. Best part, if you get some on your finger, it peels right off like school glue at the end of your session.

    'Bout all I can offer on this topic. The duty experts seemed to have covered the rest. LOL
    3ec7c7899d4377a48d606d8a26156befb6.jpg
     

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