SPARTAN II said:Well, I guess great minds think alike, huh? lol
I definately agree doing a comparison between the two styles would be a good idea, so you can see which one better suits your fancy. Might even be a good idea to bring that discussion to the members here, find out which one they think would be best.
Although I said the tinted resin approach would probably be more cost effective, personally I think the polished acrylic approach would give a nicer, cleaner look to the piece overall. A friend of mine from a Star Trek-based prop forum did a run of Superman kryptonite shards out of polished green acrylic, and they were quite eye-catching.
As for size, off the top of my head (just going off of what pics I've seen of both fan-made and in-game models) I'd gauge the length of the Needler rounds somewhere between five and six inches. If five inches, then you'd probably have one inch of that sunk into the body of the Needler. If six inches, then about two inches would be sunk in.
An inch or two of depth into the body of the Needler should be sufficient to ensure they're secured, and won't easily fall out. Of course, you could always drill a small hole in the bottom of the Needler rounds to insert the tip of the LEDs (I assume you'd be wiring it *wink*) to further secure them in place. Just an idea, anyway.
To get the correct angle on the ends, I think you'd want to cut the ends at about a forty-five degree angle. And for inserting them into the body itself, I believe the forty-five-degree rule also works.
That's just my take on it, though I have been told I have a really good eye for guess-timating that sort of thing (for example, I once made a replica of the TNG Medkit, and based on a reliable source was told mine was within 5% of the dimensions of the screen-used ones, and all I did was eye-ball it). So, take from it what you will.
Of course, I haven't been giving any thought to this at all lol
smick6 said:I followed what you were saying all the way through. We must think alike. I will probably buy the el lighting and do some testing. All the lighting needs to be figured out before the build really kicks in. I like to have a plan. I might be able to buy a long enough el light to run to all lighting locations on the gun. I dont know if the el would be strong enough to light up the crystals though. I have never seen it up close so I will have to test that out to. Let the science experiment begin.
smick6 said:I followed what you were saying all the way through. We must think alike. I will probably buy the el lighting and do some testing. All the lighting needs to be figured out before the build really kicks in. I like to have a plan. I might be able to buy a long enough el light to run to all lighting locations on the gun. I dont know if the el would be strong enough to light up the crystals though. I have never seen it up close so I will have to test that out to. Let the science experiment begin.
LeeKegan said:Is that the lighting they use under cars for show? Isn't the light that comes out the front of the needler a crystal getting ready to be shot out? Need to see screen shots.
Loess said:Regarding that beam in front of the muzzle, I'd thought that it looked like some sort of "activator" for the needles as they left the weapon. Maybe the thing that would dump the explosive energy or a catalyst or something into the projectile when it was fired, so you weren't walking around with a magazine of armed explosive devices in your rifle.
And getting back to the "how to make the thing light up" discussion, I'm thinking that LED's inset into acrylic would be the way to go. I might have to get a bit to play with to figure out internal refraction patterns and surface prep.
SPARTAN II said:This is EL sheet: EL Backlight Sheet
It's the same idea as EL strips, but allows you to cover a far larger area with a more even illumination/light distribution. When I was speaking of using the EL lighting for the lit area on the top side of the lower rear "prong", that's actually what I had in mind.
See, you could drill those little holes in the body as they appear on the in-game model (and as shown on Frank's Needler), then apply a small sheet of that stuff to the inside of the body. It would result in less materials needed, plus less wiring, both of which would likely result in it being less costly for you.
I don't know how much of a cost difference there is between the EL lighting strips and sheets, but it's another optionfor you can consider, buddy
EDIT: Just did a quick Google search for both EL lights and EL sheets, and damn... there's quite a noticeable difference in pricing. So... maybe not such a viable option, lol.