1st Build JustinIsTree's Reach Build

JustinIsTree

New Member
Update: I epoxied the 3 chest pieces together, ordered a soldering kit and tried my hand at plastic soldering/welding to strengthen that bond even better. I'm happy with how it turned out!
 

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JustinIsTree

New Member
So after many a trial and error, I was able to successfully print the bottom back piece in PETG! Only problem is that I ran out of filament at 92%. I had to order new filament which arrived 2 days after my printer paused.

I got the filament, loaded it into my printer, and resumed the print, only to find out that something shifted so I needed to immediately stop the print.

I guess I'll try and print the last 8% of the part and glue it on? If anyone has any tips on how to slice the file to be where I want it (besides just eyeballing it) I'd appreciate it.

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S225

Active Member
So after many a trial and error, I was able to successfully print the bottom back piece in PETG! Only problem is that I ran out of filament at 92%. I had to order new filament which arrived 2 days after my printer paused.

I got the filament, loaded it into my printer, and resumed the print, only to find out that something shifted so I needed to immediately stop the print.

I guess I'll try and print the last 8% of the part and glue it on? If anyone has any tips on how to slice the file to be where I want it (besides just eyeballing it) I'd appreciate it.

View attachment 318037
Had this happen on one of my thighs. It was only the last inch or so on a small area so not nearly as frustrating. The part was very thin so I printed what I though I needed and tore off individual layers until it fit. Someone might have a better solution using the g code for a more accurate guess
 

PlanetAlexander

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
You can take a ruler, or calipers, and measure how much (in terms of height) has been printed already, and then sink that much into the build plate in your slicer. Just remember to keep your measuring instrument as vertical as possible for accuracy.
 

JustinIsTree

New Member
92% + 8% update time!

After only 2 attempts I was able to successfully print the last 8% of the lower back piece. I then spent 2 hours outside listening to podcasts, sanding and cutting away at the supports to clean up the whole part before I epoxy the small pieces on. I then epoxied the pieces on and I'm actually very happy with how well they line up!

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Rock Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Stream Team
Member DIN
S098
Excellent save! If something like that happens again you can keep the part on the printer and use the nozzle head to measure the overall height quite accurately! (using the z axis)
 

JustinIsTree

New Member
How does one do these weird supports?
You're referring to the tree supports that wrap around the parts (the one I was wearing as a hat)? In Cura under the support settings there are two options: normal and tree.

Normal is as it sounds, the usual/normal columns of filament.

Tree is a really cool option that basically builds support around your part like a tree. It has a base trunk and as it goes up it builds branches to support any overhangs without making any solid contact with the part, it's there to basically guide. In my experience it's very easy to break off as long as you give it support density of 0% (which you can easily do with tree supports). I believe it also uses less filament as well? Only real downside in my opinion is just how long the slicing takes, which is like saying it'll take 20 minutes vs. 30 seconds. Not really a big deal imo.
 
You're referring to the tree supports that wrap around the parts (the one I was wearing as a hat)? In Cura under the support settings there are two options: normal and tree.

Normal is as it sounds, the usual/normal columns of filament.

Tree is a really cool option that basically builds support around your part like a tree. It has a base trunk and as it goes up it builds branches to support any overhangs without making any solid contact with the part, it's there to basically guide. In my experience it's very easy to break off as long as you give it support density of 0% (which you can easily do with tree supports). I believe it also uses less filament as well? Only real downside in my opinion is just how long the slicing takes, which is like saying it'll take 20 minutes vs. 30 seconds. Not really a big deal imo.
20 minutes holy crap dude, i didn't know it could take that long ill try it out for sure thanks!
 

Arc64

New Member
The print quality is superb so far! Did you level your print bed before or after you applied the masking tape; I've been having trouble with leveling and bed adhesion since I got my CR-10, and the printers on my college campus auto-level so I usually don't have to worry about it there.
 

JustinIsTree

New Member
The print quality is superb so far! Did you level your print bed before or after you applied the masking tape; I've been having trouble with leveling and bed adhesion since I got my CR-10, and the printers on my college campus auto-level so I usually don't have to worry about it there.
I level it after I apply the tape so that it's one paper width from the bed from the tape. Buuuuut with the new PETG filament (the red stuff) that I'm switching to, if I put tape down, my printer can't get hot enough. So I've started using glue sticks and it works wonderfully (most of the time).
 

Arc64

New Member
I level it after I apply the tape so that it's one paper width from the bed from the tape. Buuuuut with the new PETG filament (the red stuff) that I'm switching to, if I put tape down, my printer can't get hot enough. So I've started using glue sticks and it works wonderfully (most of the time).
Man, glass beds and gluesticks have become the bane of my existence. I can't get anything to stick to save my life; but most likely my bed isn't leveled just so. Ordered a bed sticker to hopefully alleviate some of my problems.
 

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